Gas Valve

PartSelect Number PS3501675

Once this valve senses the desired heat, it will open up and allow the gas to travel to the oven burner.

This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.

This part fixes the following symptoms:

  • Will Not Start.
  • Little to no heat when baking.
  • Compare At

    $164.71
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    $27.45
  • Your Price

    $137.26
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Installation Instructions Provided by PartSelect customers like you.

Average Repair Rating: 3.1 / 5.0, 8 reviews What's this?
1-5 of 8
 

75 of 79 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used

  • Gas Valve

Level of DifficultyEasy

Time to do repair:30 - 60 mins

ToolsWrench (Adjustable)

CustomerIgnatius from Hazelwood, MO

Oven wouldn't heat

My oven was misdiagnosed from an appliance repair company. They said my ignitors and spark module needed to be replaced. I did this myself and still nothing. The problem happened to be a defective gas valve.

First I unplugged the stove and shut off the gas supply. After I disconnected the flex hose and the 2 gas connections behind the stove, I removed the 4 screws that held the valve to the back of the stove.

I went to the front of the appliance and pulled out the bottom drawer. This exposed the valve from the other side. I disconnected the electrical connections (3 colored wires) to the valve and removed it. I re-attached the new valve, putting everything back in reverse order. I made sure the 3 wires were reconnected correctly by labeling each one before disconnecting them. I made certain that my gas connections were sealed by using teflon tape and/or pipe sealant from the hardware store. I turned the shutoff valve back to the on position and checked for leaks. If I smelled gas I snugged it down a bit more until no gas smell was detected.

There was nothing wrong with the ignitors or the spark module. The stove failed to pre-heat and the "tick-tick" I used to hear when the stove was first turned on was nonexistent. What the so-called experts said would be hundreds of dollars to fix unded up being a $90 part.

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16 of 16 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used

  • Gas Valve

Level of DifficultyEasy

Time to do repair:30 - 60 mins

ToolsNutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set

CustomerSteven from Las Vegas, NV

Oven and broiler wouldn't light

#1) Pulled the range away from the wall and unplugged the electrical cord
#2) Turned the gas valve off and pulled the range away from the wall as far as the gas line allowed.
#3) Disconnected the gas line at the range and pulled the range out to access the regulator at the bottom and pulled out the bottom shelf to access the front of the regulator.
#4) I took photos of the regulator front and back for future reference.
#5) Unhooked the feeder gas lines to the oven and cooktop in the rear.
#6) Unhooked the three electrical wires attached to the regulator front and removed the set screw at the air/gas shield feeding the oven distributor and slid the shield down to the feeder line seat.
#7) Removed the four set screws holding the regulator to the back frame.
#8) Installed the new regulator with the four set screws in the back. Applied thread dope to the two gas feeder lines and installed the gas lines to the new regulator.
#9) Referenced the photos taken earlier for proper electrical colored wires to the regulator terminal block and reset the air/gas shield in the prior location and tightened the set screw.
#10) Applied thread dope to the main gas line and installed it in the supply side of the regulator. Turned on the gas and sprayed soapy water on the threads (all) to check for leaks.
#11) While the range was still away from the wall, plugged in the electrical cord, set the time, turned on the oven and broiler to checl operation.
#12) Cleaned up the range back and floor and moved it back into place. Re-leveled the range and received accolades from my Wife for a job well done. (perhaps now she will actually cook on it)

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11 of 12 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used

  • Gas Valve

Level of DifficultyEasy

Time to do repair:Less than 15 mins

ToolsScrew drivers, Wrench set

CustomerGrant from Redmond, OR

The broiler, and oven both went out simultaneously. Neither would light, (not even a click) nor would gas flow to them when turned on. The warm up timer just kept ticking as though nothing was wrong.

According to the manual tucked behind the oven, if one solenoid on the gas safety valve/regulator doesn't work, neither will work. It indicated that from the center (common) pin to each of the others, it should read 216 ohms. Mine read 200 to one side, none to the other. I ordered a replacement, had a buddy tip the oven up for easy access while I went at it with a screw driver and some line wrenches. Swapped it out and she works like a dream now.

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8 of 9 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used

  • Gas Valve

Level of DifficultyReally Easy

Time to do repair:15 - 30 mins

ToolsScrew drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)

CustomerDAVID from ALBUQUERQUE, NM

The gas safety valve leaked gas.

This is a very simple repair. 1st shut off your gas. Disconnect your gas line from the gas shut off value to the Gas Safety Value(GSV/R)/Regulator. Disconnect the other 2 lines attached to the GSV/R. Remove the 4 mounting screws holding the GSV/V. Wiggle the GSV/R from its location. Carefully remove the 3 wires connected to the GSV/R. Install your new GSV/R in reverse order applying sealant to the threaded joints. test for leaks.............. your done!!!

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8 of 10 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used

  • Gas Valve

Level of DifficultyEasy

Time to do repair:15 - 30 mins

ToolsWrench set

CustomerJason from Apple Valley, CA

Gas regulator started to leak.

First I removed the gas line from th wall. Second I removed to gas lines going from the regulator to the stove. The regulator then unscrewed from the stove itself and that was it. I reversed the process to install the regulator.

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