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PartSelect Number PS3500894
This drive motor rotates the drum by turning the belt.
This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
** Your best bet is to use a digital camera to take pictures of the various stages as you take apart the dryer - especially the wiring. And, use masking tape to label all the wires.** I removed the Blower Housing which made the process much easier.** Find a friend with or buy the snap ring pliers** Big Secret not mentioned anywhere - the Motor Support (diag. #20) can be removed ! Hence - the entire Motor assembly can be taken out to remove those irascible Motor Clips.** For the Green ground wire going from the dryer frame to the motor, you need to take the screw from the old motor and use it to screw into a hole marked with a black "slash" on the new motor.** After 3 days of WD 40 and an allen wrench, I could not remove the Motor Pully from the old motor, so I would buy one if I were you.** Hardest Parts - Removing the Motor Clips, reattaching the idler spring!, having another person hold the drum while I installed the Belt and reattached the front drum frame thingy, and deciphering my wiring schematic and reassembly diagrams ! That is why a digital camera is so helpful.** The process is really very easy if you use the suggestions above and read the others.** Find the "Model Diagram" on the PartSelect website - an excellent resource !!** A twenty+ year old Maytag - up and running again !! Many thanks to others who shared their story.
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In addition to the other helpful suggestions:The key to replacing the motor is to remove the motor while it is still clipped in to the bracket (after removing the blower assembly, of course.) Don't remove the tumbler and belt thinking it will give you clear access to the rear clip, because it won't.Removing the bracket is not complicated. There are two screws that are fairly easy to access and keep the bracket in place (refer to parts diagram for location); when the screws are removed, out comes the motor assembly (after disconnecting the wires, of course.) This is the only way to get access to the two clips that hold the motor to the bracket.As for those pesky clips, I was able to use a flat screwdriver in one hand and vice grips in the other to pry off the clips. After a few tries, working on one end of the clip, I was able to apply quite a lot of downward pressure without braking the end of the clip. If anyone has another suggestion....Putting the clips back on was much easier. First, remount the motor to the bracket, making sure to rotate the motor to the 2 o'clock position so you can re-attach the ground wire (or else you'll have to unclip the motor again, like I did!) Then re-attach the clip on one side. With the clip aligned properly, bear down with a flat screw driver on the other end of the clip. A swift knock with a hammer on the top of the screwdriver will easily re-attach the clip. Repeat with the second clip.If you proceed carefully and patiently, this job can be accomplished without specialized tools or expertise.
First I shut off the power at the breaker. I removed the two screws on top holding the front panel in place I removed the wires carfully marking so they would go back in the correct places. I removed the tub and then removed the old motor and switching the wires to the new one. Mounted the new motor, replaced the tub with the belt, attached the belt to the motor. connected the marked wires and put the front cover back in place with the two screws on top of machine. Turned the power back on and started it up it works perfect The motor only cost $119.00 and a little of my time much better than getting a new machine as it is a stack washer dryer.
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