3500892-1-S-Whirlpool-W10410997-Drive Motor - 115V
3500892-1-S-Whirlpool-W10410997-Drive Motor - 115V 3500892-2-S-Whirlpool-W10410997-Drive Motor - 115V 3500892-3-S-Whirlpool-W10410997-Drive Motor - 115V http://www.partselect.com/Schematics/Maytag/LD14-40.gif

Drive Motor - 115V

PartSelect Number PS3500892

This part has a D-shaped motor shaft and this motor runs at 1/4 horsepower and carries 4.5 amps.

This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.

This part fixes the following symptoms:

  • Will Not Start.
  • Will not tumble.
  • Noisy.
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Fast Shipping Get this part fast. Average delivery time via regular ground: 1.8 days.

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Installation Instructions Provided by PartSelect customers like you.

Average Repair Rating: 2.7 / 5.0, 16 reviews What's this?
1-5 of 16

151 of 223 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
Level of Difficulty: Easy
Time to do repair: More than 2 hours
Tools: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Wrench set
Customer: Frederick W. from Austin, TX

Motor buzzed and dryer drum would not spin when pressing start

From the first time the motor buzzed (but dryer tumbler then started to turn), 2 weeks elapsed for the dryer drum to stop turning altogether. If this occurs, DO NOT continue to push the start button because the motor armature wiring will heat up and the insulation will begin to melt and smell - a SAFETY HAZARD. Unplug dryer and lockout/tagout as appropriate.

Through basic troubleshooting, discovered the motor had seized up. Since the unit was about 10 years old and it had to be disassembled for replacement, the decision was made to replace "likely to fail mechanical components including motor, belt, both rear drum rollers/shafts, idler arm pulley/assembly/wheel, associated washers, snap rings and both front glides. Reviewed the PartSelect website and drawings, ordered the parts and they delivered on time. Buy the correct sized snap rings at a local hardware, they're much less expensive. Also once inside your dryer, you'll likely find alot of lint to vacuum out...have fun.

I went online and Googled several resources that showed how to remove the front dryer panels, as well as PartSelect repair stories. From that point on, I took photos as I was disassembling so I would know how to put it back together. Utilize pictures or whatever system you prefer to keep track of taking something apart and putting it back together.

Remove the dryer door, then the front panel Disconnect wires to the light, dryness sensor and door switch. Note belt and pulley configuration that is near the motor-this will help you later when reinstalling the belt. Also note if the ribbed side or the flat side of the belt is against the outer drum wall. Remove the door shroud.

Slip the belt off the idler pulley wheel. Remove front drum support, then dryer drum Note which end of the dryer drum is the front and the orientation of the glides on the drum support. Discard old belt. Drill out and remove the old front glide supports, then install/rivet the new glides.

Remove both old rear drum rollers/shafts, washers, etc. The rear drum roller shafts are secured to a back bracket by a hex nut....feel around you'll figure it out. Replace new roller shafts. Lightly grease using a high quality silicon grease, then replace new washers, roller, snap ring, etc

Carefully unplug wiring harness on motor, there are fragile clips on each end. Don't forget a separate ground wire from the harness is attached to the motor mount bracket. Carefully release tension on the idler arm spring. Using the correct size nut driver, remove three screws (on this model) then take out the motor/idler arm assembly. Remove the old idler arm/pulley assembly. Remove the motor mount clips on each end of the mount (I used a wide blade screwdriver). Remove and replace the motor. Motor configurations changed after Whirlpool bought Maytag, so orient it correctly insuring mounting gasket "nubs" on each end of the motor correspond to the cutouts on the motor mount. Reinstall the motor mount clips. Replace the new idler arm assembly/pulley wheel; grease moving parts with high quality wheel bearing grease. Replace motor/mount bracket assembly back into the dryer. Replace ground wire to motor mount bracket and plug wiring harness back in. Reinstall idler arm spring.

Place belt back on the dryer drum and move into place on rear rollers. Reinstall front drum support. Dryer drum should turn relatively easy. Insure belt is oriented on the drum correctly before connecting belt to motor shaft end and idler arm wheel pulley (the picture you took comes in handy here).

Reinstall the rest of the parts in reverse.

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8 of 10 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
  • Drive Motor - 115V
Level of Difficulty: Easy
Time to do repair: 30 - 60 mins
Tools: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
Customer: Ryan from Raleigh, NC

Over the last year the 'start' button has had to be held to 'start' the dryer, with a humming noise during the process. Eventually it hummed, stank, and wounldn't start.

Yanked the front panel, observed motor operation while my smoking hot wife started the unit. Our washer and dryer get beaten like rented mules with kid laundry. I tried this site, and decided to spend a little $$ on a replacement motor. I was impressed with the operator, she even asked what the symptoms were and helped to avoid wasting time and money.
The part arrived on time, and installed quickly. I am a hero in my wife's eyes, and that certainly carries weight.
Then again, I didn't have to dispose of the old dryer, pay for a new one, or haul the replacement upstairs.

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5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
Level of Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
Time to do repair: 1- 2 hours
Tools: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
Customer: Bruce from Gladstone, MI

The dryer drum would not rotate when the start button was pushed.

First this I did was to disconnect the power cord. Then I removed the screws that held on the door and the two on the other opposite side. This allowed the front panel to be removed. Next I removed the top two screws which allowed the top to hinge up and out of the way. Then I removed the rest of the screws that held the front drum support and moved it to the side. I did have to unclip the wires that ran to the interior light. I did not how ever have to disconnect any wires at the front of the dryer. Next I reached in from the bottom of the drum and released the drive belt from the spring loaded pulley. at this point the drum was able to be removed out the front of the unit. This gave access to the motor. It was necessary to remove the several screws that held on the front half of the fan housing. Again I did not remove any wires as this too could be moved to the side out of the way. I then removed the snap ring and clamp from the fan end of the motor shaft and pulled the fan off of the shaft. Next I unclipped the wiring connector from the top of the motor and used a screw driver to pry the connector off. Next I used a socket on a long extension to push down on the motor clamps while tilting the socket out to allow the clips to release. I then removed and replaced the motor and assembled in the reverse order. While I had the drum out I inspected the rear support wheels and noted that one would hardly turn. I removed both wheels via a nut on the back side of the shafts. I found that one had shifted on the bushing and was making contact with the frame. I used a vise to press the wheel back into the correct location. I also applied anti seize with a small amount of dry graphite to both wheels and insured that the both rotated freely. I then installed the front two glide slide pads using the pop rivets provided in the kits. I used a shop vac and cleaned any lint from inside the dryer. I then reassembled the front covers in reverse of the disassembly process. I rotated the drum by hand prior to applying power. I also ran the unit with the heat off for the first five minutes. Total cost was under $160.00 or half of the replacement cost.

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4 of 5 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
Level of Difficulty: Really Easy
Time to do repair: 1- 2 hours
Tools: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Customer: Jim from Bellevue, WA

Motor burnt a phase

If you are cursed with owning a Maytag product then you'll be glad PartSelet.com is in business. I get all my parts here.

My dryer motor burnt a phase. The tear down was very straight forward since there isn't much to a dryer. I did the tear down in the driveway. The dryer was full of lint so I blasted it with compressed air to clean it up. Keep all your parts in labeled baggies as you do the tear down. Reassembly goes much faster. The hardest part about changing the motor was getting the motor clips off. They are tough buggers. I used slip-joint pliers & finally popped them off. This job is simply enough for the average monkey. Just use the diagrams on partselect.com if you forget where something goes.

I shipped everything via fedex 2-day. It took 5 days to get here. partselect shipped it fast. fedex was the problem. I guess the boys at fedex have a public education is they think 5=2.

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4 of 5 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
Level of Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
Time to do repair: 1- 2 hours
Tools: Pliers, Socket set
Customer: Joe from Nashville, TN

Dryer made a buzzing sound when start button pushed. Would not start.

Took off front. Removed door. Removed drum support. Removed drum and belt. Made sure motor was correct size and fit. Removed blower wheel. Disconnected wire plug from motor and slid motor out of blower wheel. Replaced everything in reverse order. Figuring out belt tensioning position was a trip, but finally got it. Vacuumed out all the lint. Amazingly it worked!

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