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PartSelect Number PS3497634
Note: This valve has been updated by the manufacturer and NO longer includes the removable pre-filter bracket connector. Must be ordered separately part number WPW10445062.
This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
take out ice bucket, just loosen the top 2 screws, remove the bottom screw, slide ice maker up & out, srewdriver to release wiring harness clip, reverse to put back in. was very simple. did not install water inlet kit yet. water under fridge stopped after i changed the ice maker.
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First I unplugged the fridge, then using the socket set I removed the cardboard shield from the lower rear of the refrigerator. I located the leaking water from a cracked solenoid water valve just inside the lower cavity directly behind the water intake line. Removing the valve was a snap - most of the valve plastic compression couplings unscrewed and came off. The metal compression fittings required an adjustable wrench and a pair of pliers to hold the solenoid unit steady. A couple of hex nuts kept the solenoid bolted to the refrigerator frame and came off easily with the socket. Two simple push-on electrical plugs came right off just by pulling on them. The new valve unit wasn't exactly like the original one. It had push-on instead of compression water fittings and the plugs were oriented differently. I recommend studying which water lines entered which port on the valve because I was a little unsure after I took the old one apart (whoops). After figuring out how to put it pack together, the push-on water fittings were even easier, and the unit was scewed back into place on the fridge frame. The electric plugs have different sized contacts so you can't mix them up. I put the cardboard shield back on. Viola!
I first read your forum which was extremely helpful! I checked the continuity of the electromagnetic valve and got a 0 reading on the ice fill valve. The valve next to it which is for the water in the door had a 300ohm reading on my meter. This meant there was a broken wire somewhere in the coil which confirmed the valve was bad. I tried to get the part locally but was told it was on back order! Ordered it thru Part Select at the regular shipping rates and to my surprise it arrived the very next day!The valve was the new style where you push in the tubing until it locks. I carefully trimmed each tube square with a sharp razor knife, the old valve used plastic compression fittings which had to be cut off.One of the inlet tubes was smaller than the opening on the valve. I then noticed that there was a reducer in the box that snapped into place making the line a perfect fit! Even though the inlet valve looked different than the original it was an easy installation. After replacing it, I had ice again! Totally impressed with the service and how quickly they shipped the parts on the same day! I will never again run around town trying to find parts! Thanks to all of the hard working employees at Part Select!
unplugged fridge, turned off water supply, disconnected water supply line (towel to catch drainage). remove cardboard lower panel from back of fridge. remove 2 bolts holding existing water inlet valve assy to fridge. Disconnect 2 electric plugs from assy. water lines disconnect using push/pull method (mark where they go). If any water tube line has any surface imperfections trim off a small length of line using a razor knife (cut tubing perpendicular (or "square" )on the end. I had to remove small unused part from the new water inlet valve assy. Insert the 3 water lines to the correct spots: push them on,fully, give a tug to make sure they are connected fully. Reattach the 2 electrical plugs.Bolt the unit back in place. I connected the water & plugged it in, filled about 10 glasses of water and made sure an ice cycle ran, to check for leaks (none found). I cleaned off some of the dust on the back of the fridge, reattached the cardboard lower piece. and listened to the sweet sound of Ice filling, and not my wallet emptying to the service man!!
First checked to make sure the water reserve line inside fridge wasn't frozen (soaked coil at back of fridge in a container of warm water for 10 min). That seemed fine and icemaker was still working so assumed that portion of the water inlet valve feeding water line wasn't working. Video on PartSelect website showing how to replace the valve was spot on and gave me confidence to install myself. Part arrived within two days and installation was done in a snap exactly as shown in video. All the lines & wire harnesses fit perfectly, water & ice working great, and I couldn't be more pleased.
After cutting supply line to ice maker and using syringe to back feed ice maker discharge outlet- I learned that there was no freeze blockage in supply.Using nut driver, the valve was removed and electrical and water lines removed and reinstalled on new valve.Reinstallation of assembly using nut driver completed the whole repair in less than 5 minutes.The part was a perfect match. Thanks
I removed the cardboard backer board at the bottom rear of the refrigerator. I had to remove two screws to free the old inlet valve from the frame. The old water tube fittings were compression (screw on) type, so I cut the ends off cleanly with a sharp blade. They inserted into the valve holes easily - just needed a good push to lock them in solidly. The tubes are different sizes, so it was easy to know which one goes in which hole - the electric connectors were easy to transfer from old to new... screwed the new valve back onto the frame, re-installed the cardboard backer, flushed the system -- and no more leaks!!
The repair was made simply by removing the old broken Water Inlet Valve (two screws and 4 tubes) and replacing it with the new one. All the tubes and wiring are the same so it was relatively easy to replace. Now we have fresh made ice again
took back of refrigerator, removed water lines, removed electrical connections. removed 2 screws holding water valve, replaced water valve, replaced electrical connection, replaced water lines. Put back on refrigerator. Tested water on freezer door. Didn't work, had to take refrigerator back off again and check the electrical. I didn't get one of the connection put on securely, Put back on refrigerator, check water on freezer door. It worked. Make sure the electrical connection are connected this will sav you about 10 minutes of repair time
Removal of the old assembly went quickly once Iunderstood about the "push and release" tubingconnectors. The exception was the connection from the water inlet assembly to the water filter which uses a different diameter connection at the inlet end, and would not "push and release".So to install the new valves, I simply by passedthe old inlet assembly and used the extra pushsplicer furnished in the kit for the water inlet to thefilter. All the other connections were easy push ins.Next time will be 1/2 hour maximum!
Unplug refridge, shut off water supply, remove backing. Remove two screws holding in valve, pull out valve and remove water lines. Have towel to wipe up very little water that leaks out. Unplug electric sources, remove old valve. Take new valve , plug in electric sources, push in water supply until they bottom out, attach bracket to back of refridge. Replace backing, turn on water supply, plug in and bleed lines.
Review the video on parts select. Do this first!The actual repair took less than 30 minutes, including pulling out the refrigerator, performing the repair, and replacing the refrigerator. Remove the screws holding the cardboard backing to the bottom rear of the refrigerator. Remove the screws holding the pump in place. Remove the electrical connectors and the water hoses from the pump. I needed the wrench to disconnect and reconnect the main inlet hose. Hook everything back up (the sizes of hoses and connectors are different). Replace the cardboard backing. Done!!I would use Parts Direct again.
A service man who came to the house for another job said it was common for one solenoid on the inlet valve to fail while the other still worked, which explained why it would refill the ice maker but not dispense water. It was easy enough to unscrew the old valve from the frig frame and unscrew the and the tubing. The valve is oriented a little differently, but there was still room for it and enough tubing to reach the connections. Seems to me colors for the new water/ice controls were not exactly the same, so I would make a note of them (by following the tubing) when you disconnect them. The newer style push-in connectors were easy to hook up once I trimmed the a half inch or so from the end that had been crimped by the older compression fittings. Once I started using the water again, the occassional small puddles of water under the freezer door hinge disappeared. I was told this can happen when you stop using the water, and the water remaining in the tube that runs up thru the freezer door can freeze and thaw, producing a sweat that runs down the tube and out the hinge.
Resistance on solenoid for water to ice maker measured low (5 ohms). I assumed the coil insulation had degraded because there was almost a short with such low resistance. Replaced the water inlet valve kit and ice maker filled with water and everything worked great. I had to cut the ends of the hoses because my model use compression fittings and this new valve kit used the push on fittings. No leaks no problems. The cables plugged in the opposite direction from the old valve kit, so I had to re-route the cable a little and create slack by removing from 1 cable clamp.
After diagnosing two problems (Hot door jambs between the fridge and freezer, as well as excessive leaking in the freezer) I ordered the parts online. I received a new condenser fan kit and a new water inlet valve. Both were easy to replace. The hardest part was getting the old condenser fan out of the fridge, but I took off the fan blade first, and pulled that out, then I was able to get the fan motor out. The water inlet valve was pretty easy as well, just make sure that you shut the water off completely. I made the mistake of only turning it a quarter turn at the valve on the wall when I should have made a half turn on the valve. Slight water mess in the kitchen, but if that's the worst thing that happened on this repair, then I'm OK with that. Both were easy to replace and the cost saved of not having to call a repairman was the extra added bonus.
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