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PartSelect Number PS3497634
Note: This valve has been updated by the manufacturer and NO longer includes the removable pre-filter bracket connector. Must be ordered separately part number WPW10445062.
This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
Replaced part sent. Very simple. Remove old, install new. Everything was one for one the same except connections were the newer push/seal type vs. threaded. It went smooth and corrected the problem
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I was out with friends who said this may be an easy problem to fix.So I purchase the Ice Maker Solenoid Water Valve My mistake was starting this job 8:00 at night.I was tired after work.After shutting the water feed and disconnecting the electric, I removed the old solenoid and I started to replace it with the new one. Once replaced, I plugged in the electric and ran down to the basement and turned on the water.Long story short and after much moping and cleaning up, I realized that it is not wise to reverse the water feed.When the water feed into the selenoid is placed in the "in" position and the tube to the ice maker is placed in the "out" position on the selenoid ...this job takes less than 15 minutes. Do it wrong and you too will be cleaning up a watery mess !
Replaced water inlet valve for ice maker
After completing the installation I plugged the fridge in and turned the water back on and the water would not stop running, what a mess inside the freezer.
changed out all parts needed still not working
Used provided instruction sheet and site instruction video.
Replace the the Water Inlet Valve first if your ice maker is leaking. It does no good to replace the ice maker because the new one will leak as well. The inlet valve controls the water to the ice maker and the valve is considerably less expensive anyway. It is an easy fix as well.
Followed the video, removed the cardboard backing and disconnected the lines. My lines were nut and ferrule so i had to trim them back some for the push locks to work properly. everything went on nice and easy. turn on the water and I was making ice instead of a mess! The drawer went in even easier! It just slid right in.
Remove and replace just as described in info video; replacement valve was revised type fittings but installed without any modification.Only extra wrinkle was line to filter began leaking, but renewed with spare line supplied with replacement valve.
This was actually a two-parter.I jumped on PartSelect (luckily) and read through the many helpful guides to trouble-shoot my problem. I first thought it might be the controlling unit circuit boards, until I happen-stanced upon the great tip of first checking the resistance to the water valves. Voila ... one of the valves read 500 ohms ... the one to the freezer said 3 ohms! That valve is clearly marked as to which valve goes to which water supply. I then watched the GREAT video on what I should expect. After ordering the part and getting the fridge back out, I spent a maximum of 6 minutes. EVERYTHING worked as advertised ... except it STILL wouldn't make ice. (I knew the valve was good as I ohm checked before installing. So I again searched the trouble-shooting databases. Computer boards? NO! Some nice lady mentioned that someone told her that if the ice tongs were point aft, it was a problem with the timing motor which is part of the controller inside the motor that turns the tongs. So ... it was back to pulling the ice-maker unit and checking for broken parts. WELL ... factor installer evidently jammed the unit into the track on either end of the icemaker so I spent about 1/2 hr removing the two screws off the ice-maker door and more than gently prodding on the ice-maker to free it off it's tracks. You ONLY have to remove the 1 screw from the back, bottom right to gently prod the cover off the electrical connector. With that removed and the unit slide off the sliders (watch that left hand tong that latches to the bottom left side). Holding the unit in one hand you'll need to pry the catch up from the front of the connector and slide apart. With the unit on your favorite counter, you can NOW remove the other three screws from the bottom of the unit that are holding the ice maker unit to the tray. Pry the white cover off the motor unit and remove the three screws holding the motor to the unit and tong shaft. Note as others have, that when you install the new motor unit, you'll need to ensure the half-round tong rod fits correctly into the motor assembly. Now it's a matter of reversing all the foregoing and sliding the unit back into the freezer. Took me 1/2 hour to remove this unit and 6 minutes to re-install. Let's hear it for the old assembly line!! My wife thought I was a genius and it only cost $140 for the parts!! YAY PartSelect!!
First I would like to thank PartSelect for getting the part to me so fast. The repair was easy just rolled frig out pulled lower cover off to expose valve, about 8 screws. Turned water and power took off valve, 2 more screws. Pulled electrical conectors off pushed in on water lines hold down on push in water and pull out lines, put in new valve it takes about 15 to 20 min.
I replaced the valve but the problem turned out to be the emitter/receiverWhirlpool/kitchenaid gave little or no help
First I removed all the screws holding the cardboard cover on the back. Then remove the 2 screws on the right holding the valve. Remove the water lines one at a time as described in the included instructions and place them into the new valve. Then do the sale with the electrical connectors. Don't forget to turn the water off first and turn it back on when you are done.
I unplugged the refrigerator and turned off the water. Took the back cover off to access the water inlet valve. I disconnected the water line, and removed 6 screws that held the old water inlet valve in place. I used a tubing cutter to cut the copper tubing and connected a piece of nylon tubing to the copper tubing with the connector provided. I then attached the nylon tubing to the water inlet portion of the inlet valve. Next I cut a new piece of nylon tubing to run to the ice maker from the water inlet valve, and connected the tubing to the water inlet valve. I plugged in the power source where indicated, placed the new water inlet valve in place, replaced the cover, turned on the water and plugged in the refrigerator. I let the water inlet valve run and bleed out the water line. I had ice in 20 minutes, and I disposed of the first holder of ice. Has been working fine ever since. Easy Job
After replacing a broken icemaker, I determined that there was no water coming from the water inlet valve. To do that I used a barbecue fork to evenly pop the pressure washer back from the water line fitting and no water came out. After receiving the new filter it took about 15 minutes to replace the new water inlet valve. Tried to use a flat screw driver to pry the pressure washer away and broke one of them so went back to the BBQ fork and got the rest of the fittings off with no problem. popped the new fittings on. Then the electrical connectors and two screws to mount back on the fridge. Plugged it in and leak checked the fittings. Took 5 big cups of water out to get the air out of the system and now everything works.
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