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PartSelect Number PS3493487
This part is also known as the "brains" of the appliance.
***NOTE: The wiring could be different than the original control. This part may need to be installed by an appliance repair person.
This part works with the following brands: GE, Hotpoint & Kenmore.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
After removing the back of the range the oven control board was visible and accessible by removing four nuts. There was some resistance removing the leads from the oven coils and light-bulb mechanisms but with some leverage and pliers they came loose. The only challenge was the face plate of the unit is attached using adhesive and needed to be carefully peeled off and added to the new oven control board. Getting this right was just a matter of taking time and lining up the components correctly. After applying the face, the new control board went right in. I reattached the back, plugged the unit back in, and the over has worked great for the past week. Part select being able to identify the part numbers listed from the component likely saved me at least $100 of having a GE certified repair technician come in.
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Remove upper rear cover (4 hex screws), then I removed the 4 phillips screws that mount the control panel, I memorized the wire positions (easy since they are color coded) unplug the wires and remove the old control panel. The face plate of the control panel did not come off easily and the adhesive pulled off some of the white paint, leaving an unsightly clear edge. So I used white-out, and painted the areas where the finish had pulled off. It worked beautifully, and the color match is perfect. Then I reapplied the face plate, put the new control panel in position, connected wires, screwed screws, repositioned rear cover, screwed screws, plugged it in and it was done. The longest pare of the job was waiting for the white-out to dry.
Turned power off, removed back cover, removed four screws for control board and replaced. The control board shorted out due to accidentally lifting the bottom heating coil while energized. This caused it to short out on the terminals in the back (did not trip breaker for some reason). Removing those connectors to clean them up a little is the only reason I needed the pliers. All the wires are color coded to put them back where they came from on new board. Because of other stories on this web site, I knew to order the $12 faceplate graphics so I didn't have to try to peel off the old one. Unfortunately, the graphic was damaged in shipping. However, I am getting a replacement free of charge, but I have to take it all apart again to stick it on. 1/4" nut driver is really all a person needs to do this job. Pliers could help pull wires off terminals if they are really tight, and the back panel might be secured with one phillips head screw also. Mine wasn't, but it looked like it should have been so it is now. I also put a little electrical tape on the inside of the rear panel behind those connectors for the bottom heating coil, so if it is ever lifted up again, it won't short out and fry the control board again.
I removed the 4 hex head screws holding the control panel , then the other 4 slotted screws. Disconnected all wires being careful to keep track of the color coding. Had a little trouble with the adhesive holding the face plate( I don't know why they even used it). Put the new panel in and reconnected it. Re set circuit breaker and tried the oven. It still wouldn't heat. it wasn't the control panel, but a burned out wire connecting the element in the back of the oven. Well, anyway I learned how to do the job and the the new panel activates better, so all was not lost.
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