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PartSelect Number PS347627
The drum support rollers are not sold individually and are now available in a kit of 2. This kit contains the 2 rollers, four tri-rings and one palnut.
This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
NOTE: This kit is for 29" wide dryers built 1965 or later. Please verify model # before ordering as may not work for all models.
This kit comes with one multi-rib belt, two drum support rollers, one idler pulley, four tri-rings, and one clip. This part can be used with both gas and electric dryers.
popped open top, removed two springs on lower end of front panel.took off same panel, pulled drum forward, pulled jesus clips from roller pins ,took off old rollers and replaced with new rollers and clips.
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I had already disassembled dryer to confirm problem, then I ordered rollers. Once rollers arrived ( and quickly I might add!) I replaced rollers and reassembled in less than 15 minutes - parts ordered were perfect fit.Thanks!
before i describe the repair let me tell you about the shipping. I ordered the parts early Friday afternoon and recieved then Sat. morning, almost like they were E-mailed to me. A++ The repair was a simple task that anyone that could find the problem could fix. WORD
It turns out that only one of the wheels was bad but I changed both. However, the real problem was the dryer barrel was rubbing on the housing of the motor. The applicance was used when I bought it and was obviously worked on previously and the motor was re-installed in the wrong rotation. I rotated the motor and that solved the problem. I think the cause for the noise is that, with age, and wear on the wheels, eventually allowed the barell to sag and rub on the motor housing. I did not change the belt, becasue the other one still works. Thanks
don't waste your time pulling the back cover off of this dryer for this repair. Everything comes apart thru the front and top.
Pull out lint filter and remove the two philips head screws.....Then use a flat screwdriver to gently pry loose the top front corners of the dryer. After safely securing the top in an upright postion.....disconnected the door switch....then remove the two 5/16 inch metal screws holding the front of the dryer on.Once screws are removed.... gently lift the entire front of the dryer...up and off of the unit.....exposing the dryer drum assembly.By releasing the tension on the drum belt "idler pully... you can then remove the belt from the pulley on the electric motor.....and then move the complete drum assembly straight forward and out of the machine...through the opening provided ( There is an area that has been "cut out" of the metal...especially for this procedure)Once drum assemby is out of the way.....all that is required....to change the support rollers...is to pry off the plastic retainer "clips" ( Triangle shaped) and slide the rollers off of the shafts. Although the original rollers had not originally been lubricated in any way , at the factory ( Possibly the reason for the premature failure)....I decided to apply a coating of lithium grease to the shafts and inside of the rollers, prior to re-assembly.Once rollers were installed and retainer clips in place.....re-assembly was accomplished by "reverse order" of the teardown procedure.After unit was re-assembled...it ran quieter than it ever has!
The bottom access panel removes easily, "popping off" from the clips. the top also comes off easily. 2 nuts hold on the roller wheels. One was worn badly, and I replaced them both. I also replaced the belt easily. The belt came with drawings and instructions for replacement. The I recevied the parts within 2 days after ordering. Thanks you for the easily available parts. It saved me hundreds of dollars in repacement.
took the top, sides and back removed the drum and replaced the roller roller shaft and drive belt and the belt tensioner
Dryer was making a thump-thump sound as it turned and door had to be held shut with a prop rod or it would pop open all the time.First I reviewed the exploded diagrams of my model on the PartSelect website. I kept referring to it as I went.Two screws held the console down, I removed those and disconnected all the wiring to the console and set the console aside. I popped the top from the front after removing the ground wire that the console had hidden. Oops ... forgot the screws holding the filter enclosure to the top panel. I removed them, then the top came off of the rear hinge-like things.I turned the drum by hand and confirmed that it was "thump-thumping". There were two internal screws that held the front panel and door to the side panels, I removed them and then the front panel/door assembly buckled away from the drum slightly. I had to disconnect the wires from the door switch and remove the wire retainer from the front panel.The front panel/door lifted slightly and came off of retainers to the side panels near the floor. The drum was now suspended on the two rollers, belt tensioner pulley, and motor pulley. I removed the belt from the tensioner and motor and removed the drum.I could see that one of my drum support wheels had a chunk melted or gashed out of it. Every time the divoted portion contacted the drum, it made a thump. I also noticed all the stuff that the kids had dumped in the dryer by lifting the front of the top panel, thinking it was a good hiding spot. The stuff included crayons, beads, assorted spare change, and a package of peanuts that had broken open.I took this opportunity to vacuum out the interior of the dryer. Wow.One of drum support roller axles has a front support. Both are bolted into the interior panel with a washer and nut. I wanted to remove both axles to replace the support wheels, so I crawled behind my dryer (by climbing over my washing machine).I had to remove the flexible vent and the rear panel cover to access the roller axle nuts. But one of the axle nuts was covered by the dryer filter enclosure, so I had to take it loose. Boy am I glad that I did. It was chock full of caked together lint and more crud that the kids had shoved down the filter hole when the filter wasn't in place. I cleaned it and removed the axle nuts.I had to remove and replace these funky little plastic triangles that acted as retainers for the drum support wheels. It was difficult and I eventually had to use pliers to help. I swapped drum support wheels, installed the new plastic triangles and reinstalled the axles, filter enclosure, back panel, and flexible duct (this involved all sorts of tools and several trips back and forth over my washing machine).I installed the drum, making sure the felt was not bent the wrong way and that the drum support wheels were in the drum groove. To rethread the drum belt I had to lay on the ground and hold the drum in position with my foot while guiding the belt with two hands. Once the belt was properly threaded, the drum would dangle in position, but I used the prop rod to support if firmly while I worked on the front panel.The front panel was in sorry shape. I replaced both hinges, cleaned the area between the door and the front panel that cannot be reached easily, and replaced the door support wires and guides, reattaching their springs. I also replaced the door retention hardware. (Note: pliers recommended by my poor cut fingers).I installed the front panel to the side panels by sliding it onto the two lower supports while holding the drum in position. I reconnected the door switch and wire retainers. I screwed the upper screws from the side panels to the front panel.I popped the top panel back in place, routing the wiring through and reconnecting the grounds. I rewired the console and slid it back into position. I screwed down the console and reattached the filter enclosure to the top panel.I plugged it in, turned it o
Followed the simple directions provided. Suggest dis-assembling the dryer before ordering the parts as it was then I discovered that the idler wheel was bad and the belt was cracking. The idler wheels should be replaced in pairs. When the unit is dis-assembled is an excellent opportunity to vacuum out the lint from all of the interior areas of the dryer. The new motor wiring was different from the old motor. The instructions should be more clear as the old motor wires were not marked. There were two red wires and two black wires in the motor wire harness. Since I have prior experience with motors I was be to determine which of the red and black wires were the primary power leads - someone with less experience may have a problem with this. Suggest changing one wire at a time and install the motor in the motor mount until the wires have been installed.
We discovered that the front of the dryer popped off after removing screws at the bottom of the front panel. The tumbler seal had rotted away, the drum support rollers were frozen and the belt had broken. My husband did most of the work. I assisted, this was a 2 man job. We removed the old seal glue with Goo Gone, we put the new seal on with both of us working on it using clothes pins. Then we glued the new seal with one of us holding the seal up while the other put the glue under it. My husband replaced the drum support rollers, got the idler pulley ready and put the belt around the drum. He lifted and I guided the tumbler (drum) into position. I held the drum while he installed the idler pulley assembly. I kept holding the drum while he got the front panel, put it in position and re-connected the electrical wires on it. Once we had that done he was able to install the front panel. Then came the moment for the test drive, and what do you know but it worked!! We didn't have to spend $$ for a new dryer, it cost us some time (probably around 5 hours total, taking apart, ordering parts and putting together), and a little over $100!! We were happy!
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