Drum Support Rollers

So the first thing I did was search the web for the parts and came to this site. I knew the model and that I needed rollers and a rear seal. I found both on this site for order in less than 10 minutes, which included finding the wonderful diagrams and directions for replacing the parts. I placed the order got the parts two days later.

I printed out the directions to take the drum out and followed them. After unplugging the dryer, I pushed in the clips that were indicated to release the top and pushed that up. I then disconnected the door switch. I reached under the dryer (not having a kicker panel for some years...) and worked to release the belt. I then took the front off removing the four screws as described. The drum removal was a little more awkward than I had anticipated, but came out without major hassle. Getting the drive belt off was the worst part other than the size.

I then removed the warn rollers after taking the clips off with a pair of needle nose pliers. I put the new rollers on and secured them.

I then went to the drum.After cleaning it a bit, I attempted to dry fit the seal onto the drum to get the idea of how it would fit. This didn't work easily as the seal needed to stretch a bit more than it could while staying on all around. I grabbed a couple of clamps and worked it on using those. Once that was sorted I started to apply the glue. It was more runny than I had anticipated. After working that around the seal I let it dry overnight to an excellent bond.

The next day I put the drum back in, adjusted the seal properly and put the machine back together. The tension roller is not fixed to the machine so getting that back on was a little bit of a trick but was overcome easily enough.

A few loads of laundry later and I knew it was all done and working OK. It hasn't dried this good or been this quiet in years.

This was my first major appliance repair. With the assistance of the diagrams on here and directions I would say to anyone contemplating a diy repair on something like this to give it a shot.

My only recommendation to the site is to more visibly recommend doing the seals, rollers and drive belt at the same time. While in there I could see wear on the drive belt and will probably need to replace that in the next six months or so.

unplugged power, slide unit away from wall, removed bottom front cover, rear sheetmetal cover, tilted front of unit to remove roller outboard support (sheetmetal screw from bottom of dryer). Removed shaft bolt from rear of dryer which released roller assembly. Remove speed nut from old roller assembly to remove outboard support arm, mounted new roller to new shaft placed triangle clips (one each side of roller), mounted outboard support to front of new shaft and completed re-assembly (reverse order of disaasembly).

watched repair video and fixed dryer.

Followed the instructions from the video on hour website. It was quick and easy. The only thing that took time was waiting for the glue to dry.

took off fabric softener dispenser. used socket to remove agitator. Cleaned and then replaced the little plastic dog ears...works like brand new! It took 15 minutes or less.

Also repaired noisy dryer. replaced drum rollers, pulley and belt. The job took about an hour and was real simple. However..the dryer was still noisy. Fixed with a prybar to force drum to be tighter. It now sounds like brand new.

I pretty much followed the instruction sheet that was included with the new drum belt BUT, this should be added in step #2. "If working alone" Before removing the front door panel: A)pull down lower access panel. B)Support the weight of the drum. (This can prevent damaging the rear drum seal!).
Also, instruction sheet step #5 should read: Route belt through the idler pulley bracket (by pulling side of bracket open enough to insert belt) and then around the motor pulley.
Step #7) A putty knife with the end rounded off works best!
Thanks!

first removed 2 screws under lint screen door ,then popped up top of dryer (lid),removed 2 screws holding front cover of dryer on,removed front cover,after removing 2 wires from door switch,then took belt off of drum by releasing tensioner,removed drum to access drum rollers,removed old rollers & installed new rollers,and reassembled by reversing this procedure

Unplug Dryer or turn off power to dryer at breaker box.

Remove lint filter.

Remove two screws at front of lent filter from top of dryer.

Pry up top at front corners to seperate top from front of dryer.

Lift front of dryer top and push backward. The top is hinged at rear and should be supported against a wall or step ladder after it passes vertical.

Remove two screws from top side of front panel holding front panel to each side.

Unplug wires from door switch.

Lift front panel up until it comes off retaining clips on each side panel. Set front panel aside.

Place block or other suitable object under front of drum to hold it up.

Locate idler pulley and motor under dryer drum.
With left hand push idler pulley up and toward motor to slacken drum belt. With right hand remove belt from motor pulley.

Lift and remove drum from dryer.

Vacuum lint and dust from inside dryer.

Remove triangular shaped retainer clips at the front of drum roller shaft.

Remove worn drum rollers.

If worn, remove triangular shaped clips from rear of drum roller axel.

Place new triangular clips on roller shaft. With screw driver force clips clear of groves at front of shaft. Slide clips on axel until they snap into groves in rear of shaft.

Slide new rollers on shaft.

Secure rollers with new triangular clips on front of roller shaft.

Remove old drum belt and replace with new belt. The belt was not broken on my dryer but it was old and cracked. I didn't want to replace the rollers and have the old belt break.

Place drum back into dryer. Make sure rollers are properly seated in grove on dryer drum and that seal on rear of drum is over the flange in the firewall.

Prop up front of drum.

Thread new belt between idler pulley and pulley frame. With left hand push idler pulley up and toward motor to give slack to drum belt. With right hand place new belt onto motor pulley.

Remove drum prop and place front panel into drum.

Lift front panel and drum a few inches to align with retainer clips at the bottom of each side panel.

Replace screws at top of front panel.

Attach wires to door switch.

Lower top and push down into clips

Replace screws in lint filter.

Removed the two screws holding the top. Popped the top. Removed the door wires. Removed 2 screws at the top of the front panel. And removed 2 screws from the bottom of the front panel. Pulled the front forward dropping the drum. Relaeased the tension of the belt pulley. Pulled the drum straight out. Removed the right roller. It was worn out. Placed the retaining clips inner and outer. Lubricated both drum supports with lithium grease. Replaced the new belt with the belt tensioner. Reassembled drum, front panel and top. Dryer runs like a Top now. Careful of the sheet metal edges very sharp.....

popped open top, removed two springs on lower end of front panel.took off same panel, pulled drum forward, pulled jesus clips from roller pins ,took off old rollers and replaced with new rollers and clips.

before i describe the repair let me tell you about the shipping. I ordered the parts early Friday afternoon and recieved then Sat. morning, almost like they were E-mailed to me. A++ The repair was a simple task that anyone that could find the problem could fix. WORD

It turns out that only one of the wheels was bad but I changed both. However, the real problem was the dryer barrel was rubbing on the housing of the motor. The applicance was used when I bought it and was obviously worked on previously and the motor was re-installed in the wrong rotation. I rotated the motor and that solved the problem. I think the cause for the noise is that, with age, and wear on the wheels, eventually allowed the barell to sag and rub on the motor housing. I did not change the belt, becasue the other one still works.
Thanks

nobody has said it yet so... to take a dryer apart, take the back off, pull the lint trap, remove two screws on back of the top piece. the whole top shifts forward and disengages two clips on front corners, it then tilts up and back. the front comes off next, this frees up the tub. all parts ordered replaced worn parts, though there was no smoking gun as to the source of the sound. once it was apart, it was a cakewalk. had it up and running in 45 minutes. can't see how it took others two hours.

took the top, sides and back removed the drum and replaced the roller roller shaft and drive belt and the belt tensioner

replaced motor and drum rear seal as well as idler wheels, the old rear drum seal was completly worn out, since I had it all apart, I replaced lint chute and trap seals and belt and tensioner. I spent less money on parts than if I would have bought a new dryer. The motor was the main problem as the bearings were shot.