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PartSelect Number PS347627
These two drum support rollers are no longer available for individual sale. Available in a package of two and it is recommended that you replace both rollers at once. These two rollers come with four tri-rings and one palnut.
This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
NOTE: This kit is for 29" wide dryers built 1965 or later. Please verify model # before ordering as may not work for all models.
This kit comes with one multi-rib belt, two drum support rollers, one idler pulley, four tri-rings, and one clip. This part can be used with both gas and electric dryers.
The best part of my repair was I had everything back in service in 3 days. And one of these days was to consider just buying a new dryer. Had parts overnited and all parts fit and easy to replace.1) Removed back - 6 screws2) Removed dryer vent - 2 screws on top, 3 on bottom3) Popped the top open4) Removed Front of dryer cabinet - 2 screws5) Removed Belt6) Removed Drum7) Cleaned up all lint 8) Pop off motor retainers front and backHere is the tricky part for me.9) Removed vent fan on back of motor.I did not know that the back of the fan was square, and you could put an open ended wrench on it to hold it while you also have a vice grip on the front motor shaft. Then its a simple left to loosey operation. I first tryed to turn the fan blade to take it off, but proved to be to tight.10) Repeat backwards to reassembleWhile I had it apart I also replaced the Drum support rollers & Installed a new belt. Not that diffucult of a repair Good Luck, was certainly better than buying a new one at + $300.00 at Black Friday rates.
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My wife had been complaing about excessive noise from our 25 year old dryer so after DISCONNECTING the dryer from the wall outlet I popped the top panel loose @ the front with a screw driver @ each front corner @ took a look. No cause was visible so I removed the rear cover & still nothing so I laid the dryer on it's back to remove the front cover. First the 2 wires to the door switch were disconnected then the 2 screws @ the top corners that hold the front panel to the side panels were removed. The front panel then slid up & lifted off exposing the front of the drum, belt & support pulleys. Upon inspection I found the bottom support pulley sleeve bearing to have worn out. Both pulleys were replaced because they only come as a pair now along with the tensioner pulley (idler pulley), the belt & the rear lip seal on the drum since it had a 4" section missing from the edge @ one point (all of these were the original components). Replacing the rear drum seal took the most time because the old adhesive had to be removed. I did this first so the glue could set while I installed the new pulleys & belt. By the time they were installed, the glue had set enough & I could continue the re-assembly.We now have a 25 year old dryer that sounds like it's new & @ a fraction of the cost
I Looked on internet sites for this type of problem.Most sites said the support rollers could cause this.I found your site PartSelect and with help of your diagrams of the machine ordered the parts I thought were needed plus other parts that might cause the problem. With machine torn down I replaced the rollers.I had also ordered the main drive belt and idler assembly with the rollers and these also needed replacement. It is a good idea to order other suspect parts when doing this type of repair since you can return the parts not needed.Your return policy is great.Edward Brennan
Very easy once I figured out how to open it up to see what was the matter.1 Remove power.2 Open the lint filter cover and remove the 2 Phillip screws.3 Pry the front of the top cover up to separate the cover from the plastic clips that secure to the top front panel.4 Remove the 2 nut screws securing the top of the front panel to each side cover.5 Pull front panel out slightly to detach wiring from the cover switch.6 Pull front panel straight up and set aside.7 Remove drum belt from tensioner and motor pulley under the drum.8 Remove drum by pulling it toward the front between the 2 sides.9 Locate the 2 support rollers and their mounting shafts. Change the shafts at this point if they are worn. (Mine were OK)10 Remove the support bracket from the shaft if present.11 Remove the plastic triangular retainer from the shaft and slide the old wheel off of the shaft.12 Clean the shaft from any bearing debris.13 Replace the rollers and retainers.14 Insert drum through the front side panels making sure the seal on the rear of the drum is centered around the opening and not folded inside the opening.15 Place the belt on the drum and thread the belt through the tensioner and around the motor pulley.16 Position the front cover on the lower clips on each of the sides.17 Re-attach the 2 wires for the cover switch.18 Pull the drum up so the opening on the drum and front cover align.19 Screw together the side panels to the front panel using the 2 hex headed screws.20 Check for binds by rotating the drum several times by hand.21 Press the front of the top panel down toward the front panel to engage the plastic clips attaching the top to the front. Watch for the lint filter housing alignment as you push the top panel down.22 Replace the 2 screws to attach the lint filter to the top cover.23 Plug in machine and test.Good luck, It s not as bad as it sounds.
Remove back coverRaise topRemove filter assemblyRemove front cover and drumTip: Use an end wrench on the fan and another on the pully shaft of the motor to remove fan from motor prior to removing motor from cradle.Vacuum everything while disassembledRemember to take your time and not force anything and this will go smooth.
Following the instructions that came with the parts, I removed the top off of the dryer, which was very easy, two more 5/16" screws and I had the drum out. I confess, this was my second time at this repair. 1st time I neglected to replace the rear drum seal which I strongly recommend you do while you have it open. I only replaced the 2 wheels last time and it failed very soon afterwards.Lesson Learned: Always replace the rear drum seal when you replace the support wheels!!!
1) Removed top of dryer2) removed belt and drum3) removed front of dryer4) popped clips holding down motor5) unscrewed rear fan from motor (by exposing and holding fan)6) changed motor 7) changed support rollers and idler pully8) reassemled dryer
Found one of the two drum support rollers was badly worn. Found Partselect.com, found my parts in less then 2 mins. Figured that I was in there so I should just replace the belt so I got one of those also. Parts arrived in 3 days dryer as good as new in 20 mins.
first we printed out directions from a couple of online repair sites that had pictures.We followed the directions to remove the front of the dryer and removed the belt off the drier and then took out the drum. We had a hard time trying to keep the rear seal on so used CLOTHES PINS to put on the seal, then we added the adhesive replacing the clothes pins until the whole seal glued. Since the drum was already out, we put it in the sun to really dry the glue.Next we attacked the drum support rollers. We removed the back of the dryer and used a 9/16" socket with an extention to remove the back nuts.We took out the shaft, used sandpaper on it and then replaced the triangle clips and the support rollers.Then put the back on again, then the front, makingsure the drum fit on the front. You have to then figure out the belt, with the rubber side down, and then work with the tensioner, which took my poor husband a while. Then lowered the top, put the clips back on and the bottom, making sure we turned the drum. It was a success after about 3 hours. You can do it a lot easier with pictures.
Braced dryer drum with a block. Removed the two rollers one at a time by using a screwdriver to pop off the triangular clip. Slid on new rollers. Would have been easier to remove the drum out the front instead of bracing it. Installed new idler pulley and belt. Dryer is 25 years old and sounds like a new one now when running.
replaced motor and drum rear seal as well as idler wheels, the old rear drum seal was completly worn out, since I had it all apart, I replaced lint chute and trap seals and belt and tensioner. I spent less money on parts than if I would have bought a new dryer. The motor was the main problem as the bearings were shot.
Removed 2 screws in the lint filter and popped off the top. Removed the 2 screws holding the front panel on. Slid the drum off and set aside. Replaced support rollers. Placed the belt over the drum and placed the drum back in the dryer. Wound the belt over the tensioner and motor pulley. Turned the drum to keep seal from folding up. Replaced front and top. Tip: Use bungee cord or rope to hold top up and out of the way while doing this job.
So the first thing I did was search the web for the parts and came to this site. I knew the model and that I needed rollers and a rear seal. I found both on this site for order in less than 10 minutes, which included finding the wonderful diagrams and directions for replacing the parts. I placed the order got the parts two days later.I printed out the directions to take the drum out and followed them. After unplugging the dryer, I pushed in the clips that were indicated to release the top and pushed that up. I then disconnected the door switch. I reached under the dryer (not having a kicker panel for some years...) and worked to release the belt. I then took the front off removing the four screws as described. The drum removal was a little more awkward than I had anticipated, but came out without major hassle. Getting the drive belt off was the worst part other than the size.I then removed the warn rollers after taking the clips off with a pair of needle nose pliers. I put the new rollers on and secured them. I then went to the drum.After cleaning it a bit, I attempted to dry fit the seal onto the drum to get the idea of how it would fit. This didn't work easily as the seal needed to stretch a bit more than it could while staying on all around. I grabbed a couple of clamps and worked it on using those. Once that was sorted I started to apply the glue. It was more runny than I had anticipated. After working that around the seal I let it dry overnight to an excellent bond. The next day I put the drum back in, adjusted the seal properly and put the machine back together. The tension roller is not fixed to the machine so getting that back on was a little bit of a trick but was overcome easily enough. A few loads of laundry later and I knew it was all done and working OK. It hasn't dried this good or been this quiet in years. This was my first major appliance repair. With the assistance of the diagrams on here and directions I would say to anyone contemplating a diy repair on something like this to give it a shot. My only recommendation to the site is to more visibly recommend doing the seals, rollers and drive belt at the same time. While in there I could see wear on the drive belt and will probably need to replace that in the next six months or so.
Troubleshhot problem, used multimeter to verify current to motor. Once that i was sure motor was getting proper voltage, I used a meg-ohm meter on A/C motor windings and physically tried to turn motor and found that it was siezed. I then cleaned inside of unit inspected belt and drum rollors. Due to the cost of the items, I decided If I was going to replace the motor I should replace all moving parts, and install new belt. Everything went easy. WHAT WAS MOST IMPRESSIVE! was that the Parts people sent the correct parts on time the first time, with no hiddin charges. There web site should accurate diagrams of parts and internals of machine. I was really pleased and will use this service again. Thank you
I lifted the top of the dryer and removed the front panel. I removed the drum exposing the drum rollers. I replaced the rollers and reassembled the dryer. The exploded views on the web site made it easy to see what to do.
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