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PartSelect Number PS346995
This dryer drum belt has four ridges, three grooves and is 1/4" wide.
This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
This part provides the tension required for a multi-ribbed belt. It also serves to help the belt to rotate the drum. This arm is what attaches to the idler pulley wheel.
NOTE: This kit is for 29" wide dryers built 1965 or later. Please verify model # before ordering as may not work for all models.
This kit comes with one multi-rib belt, two drum support rollers, one idler pulley, four tri-rings, and one clip. This part can be used with both gas and electric dryers.
I opted to remove front, top and back panels. This is best done with dryer laying on it's back so drum remains in position. Hold panels and pieces in place with masking tape (2") You should block up the dryer so you don't damage the gas pipe. I opted to total shop vac out the piece and lubricate the rollers and tension pulley. I made more in change than the belt cost!Overall an easy repair. Belt came with diagram for easy threading the belt.
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Finally got tired to greasing the wheels only to have to do it again so I sprung for new wheels and shafts. Popped the top open, removed the drum, installed the two new shafts with supplied screws then attached the wheels. Figured I'd change out the original belt while I was at it even though the old one still looked good. It's nice and quiet again, plus it give me a chance to clean it out.
Unplugged the dryer then popped the top off and tilted it back, exposing the drum. Then using a flat bladed screw driver, removed the two sheet metal screws holding the front panel on. Once the front panel was removed, I pulled the drum off, exposing the motor and worn pulley. I removed the pulley arm, then removed the pulley. The bearings were totally gone, so I replaced it with a new pulley, replaced the belt and the front drum glides, since they were obviously worn. While it was apart, I cleaned out the interior with a shop vac, which greatly improved the efficiency of the dryer.
10 min. job, easy to do / two screws top and two inside front / remove old parts install new.
I took the long way around and removed the back with the nutdriver (8mm), unscrewed the lint catcher from the top and back (phillips). From there, I reached around and unscrewed the support brackets (9/16"). Once I confirmed the problem, I ordered the parts. There was really nothing wrong with the belt or pulley, but considering its age, I figured it was easier to replace now while I already had it apart.Once I received the parts (about 3 days), I removed the front of the dryer by popping the top of the cabinet off, and the kick plate at the bottom with a flat screwdriver. Then, I removed the two screws holding up the door at the bottom, and the two holding it from the inside top. Once the front came off, I removed the idler pulley from the bottom, and the drum fell out. I was left with an empty cabinet with the exception of the motor.I replaced the tri-rings on the support shafts, which was the most time consuming part of the whole ordeal. Those buggers are tight. I ratcheted the support brackets back on , removed the belt from around the drum and replaced it with the new one. I added the idler pulley back in, placed the drum against the back, and hooked the belt back around the motor. I also replaced the lint seal that goes from the drum to the catcher before putting it all back together.I wish all machines were as easy as this dryer to repair.
Removed lint filter and 2 screws on either side of lint filter housing. Pried front part of top panel up on both sides and flipped backwards out of the way. Disconnected wire to door-open switch. Supported top panel with a standup dolly/handtruck so that it didn't put stress on the back mounting clips at the back of the top panel. Removed 2 screws securing the top of the front panel to the two side panels. Lifted the front panel up to release it from the clips at the bottom of the two side panels. Set front panel aside. Laid (layed?) dryer on it's back. Lifted out drum, removed old belt. Removed screw holding base of strut to bottom of dryer frame (left support roller when facing front of dryer). Pried off push-on washer/clip securing strut to roller shaft. Pried off triangle washers holding rollers on shafts. Vacuumed loads of lint out of the inside of the dryer. Reassembled in reverse order. A little tricky getting the belt back on the drum, through the pulley/tension wheel and around the motor spindle/spool thingey. With the machine still laying on it's back I wound up using masking tape to hold the belt onto the middle of the drum while threaded the rest of it into place to the motor. Problem was due one of the support rollers having a flat side instead of being round.
removed the top of the dryer exposing the drum and belt.Also the bottom acess door was removed.The rollers were easy to get to from the bottom and from the back.Had to remove ducting from the rear of the dryer to expose the upper most roller shaft nut.Loosened the nuts from the back making the wheels come from the bottom.Also had to loosen the support bracket holding the weight up on the bottom roller assy.Replaced the belt by rapping it around the drum before installing the roller wheels.This project was easy except trying to hold the upper shaft in place while putting the nut back on the shaft.This would be much easier with a second person.Thanks for making this a nice experience and easy fix !
Followed the instruction given by previous writers in these post.Hint The bungee cord hook was used to hold up the lid, worked very well.If you are by yourself use duct tape to hold the drum in place before removing the front panel. Tape the top rear of the drum to the rear frame. Also do this when reassembling the front panel.Easy and quick makes the wife happy this time.PS. Ordered the parts on Sunday and had them on Tuesday.
Once we realized we needed to take the FRONT off the dryer, not the back all went well. It was an easy fix and the part fix perfectly. Instead of $60 or more for a repairman, we spent less than $20 fixing the dryer.
I opened up the dryer lifting the lid with a putty knife and removed the two screws holding the front. I reached in and removed the belt and removed the drum. I took my shop vac and cleaned all the lint, the door passage to the lint screen extremly full of hard lint. I tested the coils with my multi meter and they tested bad. I also did the test that was suggested by Part Select and again it showed the coils as bad. Once I received the parts about three days, it only took about twenty minutes to install using just a screw driver to replace the coils and the belt went on real easy with easy access to the tentioner. and my dryer now runs more quiet and dries the clothes in half the time it used to take. My belt was still in pretty good shape but I put a new one on since I had it apart any way. My friend had the same problem with his dryer and spent $300.00 for a repairman to do the same thing. I tried to tell him it is not rocket science and very easy to do yourself. Thank you Part Select for the good repair advice as well as the timely delivery of the parts.
The rear seal in my dryer had worn through and burned up, so it definitely needed replacement. The squeak, however, originated in the motor (which I found out after replacing the seal and drum belt). Because of the age of the dryer, I was unable to remove the motor from the blower assembly (over the years, the shaft of the motor had fused with the blower), limiting my ability to oil the motor. Not good! The motor has since bit the big one!
Removed the top and front panel, removed the dryer drum. Removed the worn out rear drum seal. I scraped and sanded the old glue residue from the rear of the drum. I used "0000" steel wool to clean the "brown seal residue" from the rear panel where the new seal on the drum would rub/seal against the rear panel. I used spring clamps to hold the seal in place prior to appling the glue. The glue was applied to the drum/seal and allowed to dry 30-45 min. I replaced the front drum seal (some of the other discussions in your forum had good hints on replacing this seal, better than the printed instructions), also replaced the belt and applied a light amout of lubrication (3 in 1 oil) to the idler pulley and the drum rollers. The dryer runs smoothly and quietly and most importantly no more brown streaks on clean clothes.
I pretty much followed the instruction sheet that was included with the new drum belt BUT, this should be added in step #2. "If working alone" Before removing the front door panel: A)pull down lower access panel. B)Support the weight of the drum. (This can prevent damaging the rear drum seal!).Also, instruction sheet step #5 should read: Route belt through the idler pulley bracket (by pulling side of bracket open enough to insert belt) and then around the motor pulley.Step #7) A putty knife with the end rounded off works best!Thanks!
I popped the top off and tipped the dry over . It took 2 to reposition the drum and belt back after taking it out and remving the old wheel and replacing it.
Lifted top lid of cabinet using putty knife to release clips then removed front panel. Removed drum from unit and set aside. Found that one of the drum support roller wheels had lost the rubber roller. Removed old roller and secured new one which was an easy fix. Installing the drum belt was a bit more difficult as I had to do it alone. I threaded the belt through the pulley/control arm and held it taugt with one hand and then inched the belt around the drum while holding it in place with my knees. Took awhile but I got it secured. Would definitely help to remove one of the side panels of dryer or have someone assist you.
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