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PartSelect Number PS346995
This multi rib belt is an important part in your dryer, it is what helps rotate the drum. The belt attaches to the drum, idler pulley, and motor pulley. As the armature of the motor rotates, the belt begins to move and turns the drum. If you notice the drum of your dryer is not spinning during the dry cycle, but you hear the motor running, your belt may have snapped and it will need to be replaced. This belt features four ribs and three grooves, however it replaces a wide variety of belts including wider styles that had five ribs and four grooves. When installing this part make sure the grooves are facing down, against the drum. This replacement part is 92 1/4 inches in length, and 1/4 inch wide. Before you begin any repair work, make sure your dryer has been unplugged.
This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
This part provides the tension required for a multi-ribbed belt. It also serves to help the belt to rotate the drum and attaches to the idler pulley wheel. If your dryer will not start or tumble, takes too long to dry, or is noisy during operation, you may need to replace the idler pulley assembly. Make sure to disconnect power before installing this part, and work gloves are recommended to protect your hands. While the dryer is disassembled for this repair, consider replacing the drive belt as well. You will need a putty knife, a Phillips screwdriver and a 5/16 nut driver for this repair.
This maintenance kit or dry repair kit is used for dryers. The kit includes the drum belt, drum support rollers, one idler pulley, four tri-rings, and one clip. If your dryer is making loud, squeaking, and squealing noises while the drum is turning, or the drum has stopped turning, using this maintenance kit is the solution. The tools needed for this installation project are: putty knife, Phillips screwdriver, 5/16 nut driver, and a small flat blade screw driver. This kit can be used for gas and electric dryers. Remember to unplug the dryer from the power source before beginning this project.
The rear seal in my dryer had worn through and burned up, so it definitely needed replacement. The squeak, however, originated in the motor (which I found out after replacing the seal and drum belt). Because of the age of the dryer, I was unable to remove the motor from the blower assembly (over the years, the shaft of the motor had fused with the blower), limiting my ability to oil the motor. Not good! The motor has since bit the big one!
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Removed the top and front panel, removed the dryer drum. Removed the worn out rear drum seal. I scraped and sanded the old glue residue from the rear of the drum. I used "0000" steel wool to clean the "brown seal residue" from the rear panel where the new seal on the drum would rub/seal against the rear panel. I used spring clamps to hold the seal in place prior to appling the glue. The glue was applied to the drum/seal and allowed to dry 30-45 min. I replaced the front drum seal (some of the other discussions in your forum had good hints on replacing this seal, better than the printed instructions), also replaced the belt and applied a light amout of lubrication (3 in 1 oil) to the idler pulley and the drum rollers. The dryer runs smoothly and quietly and most importantly no more brown streaks on clean clothes.
I popped the top off and tipped the dry over . It took 2 to reposition the drum and belt back after taking it out and remving the old wheel and replacing it.
Lifted top lid of cabinet using putty knife to release clips then removed front panel. Removed drum from unit and set aside. Found that one of the drum support roller wheels had lost the rubber roller. Removed old roller and secured new one which was an easy fix. Installing the drum belt was a bit more difficult as I had to do it alone. I threaded the belt through the pulley/control arm and held it taugt with one hand and then inched the belt around the drum while holding it in place with my knees. Took awhile but I got it secured. Would definitely help to remove one of the side panels of dryer or have someone assist you.
Removed lint filter and 2 screws on either side of lint filter housing. Pried front part of top panel up on both sides and flipped backwards out of the way. Disconnected wire to door-open switch. Supported top panel with a standup dolly/handtruck so that it didn't put stress on the back mounting clips at the back of the top panel. Removed 2 screws securing the top of the front panel to the two side panels. Lifted the front panel up to release it from the clips at the bottom of the two side panels. Set front panel aside. Laid (layed?) dryer on it's back. Lifted out drum, removed old belt. Removed screw holding base of strut to bottom of dryer frame (left support roller when facing front of dryer). Pried off push-on washer/clip securing strut to roller shaft. Pried off triangle washers holding rollers on shafts. Vacuumed loads of lint out of the inside of the dryer. Reassembled in reverse order. A little tricky getting the belt back on the drum, through the pulley/tension wheel and around the motor spindle/spool thingey. With the machine still laying on it's back I wound up using masking tape to hold the belt onto the middle of the drum while threaded the rest of it into place to the motor. Problem was due one of the support rollers having a flat side instead of being round.
removed the top of the dryer exposing the drum and belt.Also the bottom acess door was removed.The rollers were easy to get to from the bottom and from the back.Had to remove ducting from the rear of the dryer to expose the upper most roller shaft nut.Loosened the nuts from the back making the wheels come from the bottom.Also had to loosen the support bracket holding the weight up on the bottom roller assy.Replaced the belt by rapping it around the drum before installing the roller wheels.This project was easy except trying to hold the upper shaft in place while putting the nut back on the shaft.This would be much easier with a second person.Thanks for making this a nice experience and easy fix !
Followed the instruction given by previous writers in these post.Hint The bungee cord hook was used to hold up the lid, worked very well.If you are by yourself use duct tape to hold the drum in place before removing the front panel. Tape the top rear of the drum to the rear frame. Also do this when reassembling the front panel.Easy and quick makes the wife happy this time.PS. Ordered the parts on Sunday and had them on Tuesday.
I had worked on appliances for years ( been many years though since I had) so I knew pretty much what the problem was. I took the front off the dryer and saw the rear drum support roller was totally worn out. We immediately ordered ( on line) the roller and a new belt due to some wear noted on it. Took a week to arrive but had it all installed in about 30 minutes due to a diagram was also included for replacing the belt. I am 78 and memory is getting a little fuzzy so it really helped.
Thermostats go right in after removing the back. Drum felt seal manufacturer's written instructions and diagram were not clear. The projecting part in the middle of the felt needs to cover the rear drum edge to prevent metal-to-metal contact of the spinning drum with the rear inside bulkhead. The PartSelect video that shows this cannot be viewed in my web browser, Chrome. User the Explorer browser to be able to see the videos to see how to do it. The front panel screw boltclips were loose. Tape them in place before repositioning the front panel. The time to repair included letting the seal adhesive/glue dry. Let it dry completely outdoors since it is stinky.
Raise the top and then remove two screws to remove front. Once the front was removed on this Maytag model it was not necessary to remove the dryer drum. I simply lifted the drum slightly and slid the belt around the drum to position the belt. I then pressed the tension arm toward the drum and fed the belt around the drive pulley and tension pulley. I spun the drum a few turns by hand to insure that the belt was aligned properly. Then replaced the front cover and the top. Turned on the dryer to test and job was completed. Thanks to your video and prompt parts delivery the job was a snap. My wife didn't even have time to get mad.
Watched a video and went to town taking it apart. I stuck a pop can under the barrel to hold it up while I worked on pulleys. My dryer does not have a plastic pulley but a metal tension bar with a hole in the middle. Ran upstairs and watched a different video with my set up and all was good. 5 min of work 5 min watching Youtube and 5 min cleaning all the lint out of the machine. I am actually glad the old belt broke because some of the lint was in a clump and had scorch marks on it. I took the shop vac to every part of the cabinet and shoved it down the lint trap sleeve also.
followed video except for the second fuse deeper down it was easier to take a piece of string and loop it around the top of the holder so it would not rotate toward the bottom due to the size of the hole for the fuse. hold string loop until bottom of bracket is in place and press top into place as you remove looped string...
Needed a belt. Only snag was for me was re-installing front panel (door)
Ordered before midnight paid for next day delivery. Delivered 2 days later
Found out that the thermostat cycling switch was burned out. Ordered a replacement and had it installed in five minutes. The hardest part was trying to read the number off the old part so I could set up the new one.
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