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PartSelect Number PS346995
This dryer drum belt has four ridges, three grooves and is 1/4" wide.
This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
This part provides the tension required for a multi-ribbed belt. It also serves to help the belt to rotate the drum. This arm is what attaches to the idler pulley wheel.
NOTE: This kit is for 29" wide dryers built 1965 or later. Please verify model # before ordering as may not work for all models.
This kit comes with one multi-rib belt, two drum support rollers, one idler pulley, four tri-rings, and one clip. This part can be used with both gas and electric dryers.
Watched the video on the site and it was spot-on! Super-easy, took like 10 minutes to replace the belt. Thanks!
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Disconnect power. Removed front panel and lifted top. Removed belt around spring pully and motor assembly. Carefully eased belt around back of drum and gasket. Reverse process.
I watch the video and played it again while I was working.I am a 54 year young woman and I did it.
Took two screws out of the Lint tray on top. remove to bolts from under hood then put new belt on. Always make sure there are no twists in belt when put back on
I removed the lint trap then the dryer cover from top and front side. I placed the belt around the dryer drum being sure to put it on the correct side with the grid side against drum. I coiled the belt around the pulley and motor tract. Replaced everything in opposite order in which it was removed.Video from website was very informative and helpful. I was able to follow along step-by-step to replace the dryer drum belt. I am officially a do-it-your-selfer!!!
Pull dryer out from wall about 6 to 8 inches step 1 - romove front/bottom access panel. Step 2 - remove lint trap and remove 2 screws (philips type) that is under lint trap door. Step 3 - push in 2 wood shime in front edge between lid and front panel (angled shims like door shims - a putty knife will work to, just be carful not to scratch finish) step 4 - fold lid upward and back (like on a hinge) step 5 - looking from where the bottom/front acces panel was losten 2 screws - one left one right about 3 turns - 9you can remove them it just makes it easier to reinstall the front panel. Step 6 - find appropriate pot or stacked 2 x 4 pieces - something to hold up the drum when you remove th front cover, and from underneeth support the drum. Step 7 - look thru bottm front access hole - there are 2 springs that come down from the door - and clip onto the frame of the fryer - unclip them and place on the side. Step 8 - remove 2 upper screws that hold front panel on, and remove front panel, if you left the bottom screws attached but loosened you have to lift up on the front panel a bit. Step 9 - looking from the bottom thru where access panel was - you will see motor on right with a additional roller (tensioner) - push upwards on tensioner to relieve pressure on motor and pop off belt (remember where tensioner is and how it clips in to base. Step 10 - work belt off of drum towars front - to remove it all the way you will have to lift up the drum slightly off of the pot or whatever you used for support so the belt can clear. Stem 11 - new belt goes on the same way you took to old one off - plat side away from drum with ribs against drum. Step 12 - again lift up on drum and work belt back on. Step 13 - tricky part is how to get the belt back on the motor - prentend you are threading a needle wht a folded over piece of thread - hold the belt with about a 4" loop with your left hand - hold up on tensioner and feed it back thru and work belt back over end of motor pulley, after front panel is back on with the 4 screws tightened spin the drum and make sure belt is between the 2 lines marked on the drum and remove the pot or whatever u used to prop up the drum. Dont forget to attach the springs for the door assemble all other components in reverse order. And dont forget to take the pot back out
I took the back of my dryer off to see if the problem was there. I saw that the belt was broken and laying on the inside of the dryer. Took belt and went on line (Google) my KitchenAid Dryer from it's model number. The website was PartSelect. Found the belt I needed and saw a video on how to replace the belt. I called to order the belt and spoke to Steve, which help me with all my needs. Steve knew just the belt I was looking for and placed my order. The belt arrived a few days later. While I was waiting for the belt to come in, I removed the front of the dryer and get ready for reinstall. It took me about 15 minutes to install the belt and put the front of the dryer back together. I found PartSelect to be very helpful and saved me, maybe $150.00 by not having to call a serviceman to do the easy replacement. Thank you Steve and PartSelect, now I'm number 1 with the wife again.
I replaced it
The repair was pretty simple.1. unplug dryer.2. use a med. flat screw driver with some cloth wrapped around the blade as not to chip the paint surface. From the front of the dryer,carefully pry open the top surface of the dryer. There are 2 points to lift, about 3" from the right side and 3" from the left side.3. The top will open like the the hood of a car, lift gently, you might have to move the dryer out if you can (if you are on a flexible service connection).4. Unclip the push bottom elec. switch.5. Carefully remove 2 sheet metal screws on the top left and top right (from the inside of the dryer cabinet. These hold the front of the dryer in place. You have to remove the front of the dryer to get the drum out. I can't believe that these 2 flimsy screws hold the dryer together.6. Pull the front panel off, tipping it forward. More on this later, it's really important!!7. Remove the drum, it's light weight, but bulky.8. Now you will see the motor assembly and idle pulley.9. Follow the belt diagram with the replacement belt package.10. It gets a little tricky to get the drum back in because there's a bit of spring tension on the drum from the belt.11. You're ready to re assemble. BUT, the next step is really important.12. Since you have the front panel off, you can get at the lint trap. Yeah, lint. Ever wonder why your favorite Tee shirt gets thinner and thinner? Well, look in the lint trap. I filled a vacum cleaner bag with the hard packed lint.13. By the way, you have to remove the 2 torx screws that hold the lint trap assembly.14. Vacuum the whole exhaust pipe while u are at it.That's it!
I watched the video on replacing the belt and it was amazingly as easy as the video described. I had asked my son if he could replace it if I couldn't and I didn't have to ask him. If you are only moderately ept at repairing anything you could do this. I was waiting on it when it finally arrived and in no time I had it replaced and my dryer back working. Being a woman I like it when I can repair something myself and not have to rely on someone else to do it.
The dryer was not difficult to repair. The diagram that came with the belt made the repair easy. The repair part came in a very timely manner.
Unplugged dryer. Removed lint trap and the two screws under lint trap. Popped top up. Removed two wires to door switch. Removed two nuts holding front on and removed front of dryer. Pulled drum out and placed on ground.Pulled old rear seal off and sanded off old glue. Placed most of new seal onto rear lip of drum and glued. Held it in place with clothes pins. When glue dried, pulled remaining seal into place and glued. While it dried, I replaced the front bearing.Reinstalled drum into dryer with new belt. Used screw driver to set rear seal over buldge in rear of dryer. Replaced front of dryer. Ran dryer with top up to assure seal and belt were set.Reclipped top, replaced screws and lint trap.Directions included were very clear and.
Unplugged the 220 line, removed lint cover, (2 screws). Lifted top with a screw driver, (2 plastic fasteners) then unplugged a ground line at the front lip to separate the front panel. There was a 50/50 chance here that I would not put the wires back correctly, didn't not make note of the color differences. There was no lower panel, just a single panel on the front, which I first tried to remove like the top, but quickly saw no results, then lifted the panel easily, which I set aside. I rested the drum on a 4x4 piece of wood. I then slipped the new belt over the drum, aligned the bulkhead at the rear, and positioned the belt in the original position, there was a distinct mark showing this. Next I saw the idler pulley lying on it's side, hmm, thought this might take some time, but the illustrated instructions were very accurate, reset the pulley, pushed it toward the motor and doubled the belt around the pulley, it sort of felt right, according to the grooves on the floor panel. I then rotated the drum counter clockwise, then tested. It worked! Became a hero to my wife and found $1.86 in change, woo hoo! Total cost, including shipping under $20., two day delivery, amazing. Thanks.
With no experience repairing appliances, I did figure it out that the drive belt was broken since the motor was running and the drum did not turn. What to do? Start looking for fasteners! I knew I had to get to the drum, but there was nothing up front, on top, or bottom that gave a clue. Only the back panel had hex head steel screws. I removed them and the panel. Then I removed a tube that pulled air from the drum to the outlet. I saw some screws holding the back of the dryer top. After removing them, the top popped off by pulling it up and releasing the attachment at the front.This gave me access to a couple of screws holding the top of the front (holding the door). It seemed to make sense to lay what was left of the dryer on it's back. After removing the last two screws at the top corners of the front panel, I pulled it up and removed it. The drum lifted right out. The belt tightener was loose and lying against the back wall.The local Sears did not have a replacement belt and their web site was not that helpful or forgiving. A Google search revealed a site called PartSelect. It had a very useful search routine which led me to make a purchase on a Saturday evening. The belt arrived at my door on the following Tuesday! Be sure to look at the instructions that come with the belt, it will demonstrate how to fish it through the loose belt tightener. In about 1.5 hours the dryer was back together and doing it's thing. There were two additional screws left over, but I figure that's a manufacturing defect.I was a hero to the wife, as usual.
I pried the top of the dryer with a screw driver and then lifted the top of the dryer, I then removed the two screws "with a nutdriver" that held the door in place and then removed the door and drum. I then got the new belt and placed the belt over the drum and positioned the belt through the idler arm and then on the motor pulley. I had to hold the door and drum to lock the bottom of the dryer door to the dryer and then made sure the rear drum seal was in place and the belt did not slip off the motor pulley
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