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PartSelect Number PS346995
This dryer drum belt has four ridges, three grooves and is 1/4" wide.
This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
This part provides the tension required for a multi-ribbed belt. It also serves to help the belt to rotate the drum. This arm is what attaches to the idler pulley wheel.
NOTE: This kit is for 29" wide dryers built 1965 or later. Please verify model # before ordering as may not work for all models.
This kit comes with one multi-rib belt, two drum support rollers, one idler pulley, four tri-rings, and one clip. This part can be used with both gas and electric dryers.
I opted to remove front, top and back panels. This is best done with dryer laying on it's back so drum remains in position. Hold panels and pieces in place with masking tape (2") You should block up the dryer so you don't damage the gas pipe. I opted to total shop vac out the piece and lubricate the rollers and tension pulley. I made more in change than the belt cost!Overall an easy repair. Belt came with diagram for easy threading the belt.
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Finally got tired to greasing the wheels only to have to do it again so I sprung for new wheels and shafts. Popped the top open, removed the drum, installed the two new shafts with supplied screws then attached the wheels. Figured I'd change out the original belt while I was at it even though the old one still looked good. It's nice and quiet again, plus it give me a chance to clean it out.
Unplugged the dryer then popped the top off and tilted it back, exposing the drum. Then using a flat bladed screw driver, removed the two sheet metal screws holding the front panel on. Once the front panel was removed, I pulled the drum off, exposing the motor and worn pulley. I removed the pulley arm, then removed the pulley. The bearings were totally gone, so I replaced it with a new pulley, replaced the belt and the front drum glides, since they were obviously worn. While it was apart, I cleaned out the interior with a shop vac, which greatly improved the efficiency of the dryer.
Very difficult for one person, trying to get the belt engaged into the motor pulley and the idler pulley at the same time. Trying to overcome the tension of the heavy spring on the idler was the main problem, while coping with the small working space with the drum in place. Solved all the problems by removing the drum (for the 3rd time) and making a piece of wood to wedge in against the outside wall of the machine to hold back the spring loaded idler. Then slipped the drum back in place and gently slid the belt around the drum. Then reached in under the drum and slipped the wood piece out while making sure the belt remained on the pulleys. If I had the wood idea at the start, it would have been about a half hour job. Good luck, and don't pinch your fingers.
I just followed your video how to replace a broken belt , after viewing replacing belt went easy
1st, I have a 50 yr electrical background. Impressive right. Anyway my problem was with a Gas Whirlpool Dryer (2004).I can’t express enough how important on any dryer to clean the venting system and the exhaust fan as recommended. I usually do but I let it go 2.5 years more than I usually do. So when the dryer was running it was not completely plugged but enough to get things more toasty inside the machine. The Igniter was lighting when the machine was cool and the gas flowed fine then the gas stopped but the igniter still was trying to start the flame again. As soon as the temperature dropped it would start to work again.I watched a few videos on its repair and figured if it was needed, I might as well order the Gas Valve Coils, new Drum Belt, and Tension Pulley assy. I Unplugged machine, and shut off gas to it. I got my meters out opened the back, pretty easy, make sure to wear gloves SHARP STUFF. All stats and sensors tested well (not Open Circuit). Removed the Motor Cover and it was packed with Lint. ShopVac time. Nice and clean did the whole back while I was at it. Put all covers back on, put back on, gas on, plugged in. Tried machine same issue. Turned off Gas, Unplugged Machine, and Lifted top after removing 2 screws by Lint screen Port being careful not to drop them back into Lint Screen Port. Unplugged door switch connector Removed (2) 5/16” screws holding front on and lifted front off. I shimmed the drum so it would not dangle. Unplugged (2) Gas valve coils and checked for an open, but they checked good. Note: Sometimes this happens when the coils are cold, and they don’t fail until they get warm. Removed and replaced coils, new Drum Belt, and Tension Pulley assembly, vacuumed carefully. Put front back on, Plugged door switch back together, Put Top down and secured with the 2 screws.It is suggested that you put some cold damp towels or clothes in before testing so the dampness will make the sensors see the proper temperature in the drum. Put the Lint Screen back in, Turned on Gas, Plugged machine back in. Success I Spent $40 and saved $600+. NOT TO MENTION, HAPPY WIFE/ HAPPY LIFE. Good luck and I strongly suggest you watch as many videos as you can on the web. I might mention that prices were the best, but check around if you don’t believe me. Good Luck.Thank you,-Larry Burbank, CA
Grown daughter did the repair following instructions on your site........Unplug, take screws out of top by lint filter and with putty knife pry up top panel and lean back. Unplug elec. harness in front corner. A screw on each side of front panel removes that. Get old belt off and then we vaccumed all the lint from under and around drum. Put new belt around drum making sure not twisted and pull pulley as shown to make tight......... would have taken less time but we vaccumed all the lint from under and around the drum. Anyone could do this......
i took the face off dryer and removed the belt and drum then removed the lint trap from back to clean and have access fan then removed the retaing clips holding the motor then with two adjustable wenches unscewed the motor from fan took out motor and replaced in reverse order all you needed was some common sence to do this i though it was easy to do greats parts fit perfect thanks tommy
watched your video on 'how to' and did it like man showed..no problem
10 min. job, easy to do / two screws top and two inside front / remove old parts install new.
took off fabric softener dispenser. used socket to remove agitator. Cleaned and then replaced the little plastic dog ears...works like brand new! It took 15 minutes or less.Also repaired noisy dryer. replaced drum rollers, pulley and belt. The job took about an hour and was real simple. However..the dryer was still noisy. Fixed with a prybar to force drum to be tighter. It now sounds like brand new.
Once we realized we needed to take the FRONT off the dryer, not the back all went well. It was an easy fix and the part fix perfectly. Instead of $60 or more for a repairman, we spent less than $20 fixing the dryer.
I opened up the dryer lifting the lid with a putty knife and removed the two screws holding the front. I reached in and removed the belt and removed the drum. I took my shop vac and cleaned all the lint, the door passage to the lint screen extremly full of hard lint. I tested the coils with my multi meter and they tested bad. I also did the test that was suggested by Part Select and again it showed the coils as bad. Once I received the parts about three days, it only took about twenty minutes to install using just a screw driver to replace the coils and the belt went on real easy with easy access to the tentioner. and my dryer now runs more quiet and dries the clothes in half the time it used to take. My belt was still in pretty good shape but I put a new one on since I had it apart any way. My friend had the same problem with his dryer and spent $300.00 for a repairman to do the same thing. I tried to tell him it is not rocket science and very easy to do yourself. Thank you Part Select for the good repair advice as well as the timely delivery of the parts.
The rear seal in my dryer had worn through and burned up, so it definitely needed replacement. The squeak, however, originated in the motor (which I found out after replacing the seal and drum belt). Because of the age of the dryer, I was unable to remove the motor from the blower assembly (over the years, the shaft of the motor had fused with the blower), limiting my ability to oil the motor. Not good! The motor has since bit the big one!
Removed the top and front panel, removed the dryer drum. Removed the worn out rear drum seal. I scraped and sanded the old glue residue from the rear of the drum. I used "0000" steel wool to clean the "brown seal residue" from the rear panel where the new seal on the drum would rub/seal against the rear panel. I used spring clamps to hold the seal in place prior to appling the glue. The glue was applied to the drum/seal and allowed to dry 30-45 min. I replaced the front drum seal (some of the other discussions in your forum had good hints on replacing this seal, better than the printed instructions), also replaced the belt and applied a light amout of lubrication (3 in 1 oil) to the idler pulley and the drum rollers. The dryer runs smoothly and quietly and most importantly no more brown streaks on clean clothes.
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