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PartSelect Number PS346995
This dryer drum belt has four ridges, three grooves and is 1/4" wide.
This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
This part provides the tension required for a multi-ribbed belt. It also serves to help the belt to rotate the drum. This arm is what attaches to the idler pulley wheel.
NOTE: This kit is for 29" wide dryers built 1965 or later. Please verify model # before ordering as may not work for all models.
This kit comes with one multi-rib belt, two drum support rollers, one idler pulley, four tri-rings, and one clip. This part can be used with both gas and electric dryers.
I needed to remove the front lower cover, very easy as it is held on with clips only so I used a flat head screw driver to pop it off. I had to remove the lint filter and then there are two screws attaching the top cover of the dryer to the internal lint filter tray. The top of the dryer can then be opened front to back I again used the flat head screw driver to pop the top open as it has two clips at the front corners. It helps to have someone to hold it open or a rod of some type to keep it open. You can now lay the belt on the top of the drum and work it down the back side by pulling forward on the drum itself to seperate the drum from the seal that presses aginst the back side of the drum. I then went from the lower front to retrieve the belt now draped over the drum and pinched the belt to pass it through the tensioner and over the drive pulley. looking at it from the front the belt will come down the right side of the drum under the tensioner pulley around the drive pulley across the bottom of the drum and up the left side. The belt sits almost in the middle of the drum not against the back lip where there is a groove that might be confused as a place for the belt to ride that is where the seal sits then reverse the process to reattach the top to lint tunnel and reattach front cover and you are good to go . i would suggest vaccuming any old dust/ lint whlie everything is open as this reduces the chance for catching on fire I was supprised as to how much lint was loose inside the dryer cavity itself and our dryer is gas and the flame is an open flame.
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The top was hard to figure out but I found that it pops off at the front with a flat screw driver. Be careful not to scratch the paint. I found that a rear drum roller was bad and the drum seals were deteriorated. I ordered a new belt, roller kit, front, and rear seals. This way I hoped I will not have to take it apart again. The seal were the hardest parts to replace. Make sure you look and remember how they were on before removing them. The directions were not to clear on the seals. The rest were good. It is much better to do it once. Take a picture if possible, it might come in handy as I took mine apart a week or so before the parts came in. I also cleaned out all of the accumulated lint buildup with a shop-vac, including the vent pipe, heater area, and front door. When I was done with this it worked like brand new.
Looking at the schematics, it wasn't clear exactly where the motor was located. I took off the rear panel thinking I could get to the motor through the blower. Realizing that was a no-go, I did some web searching and found that the lint screen chute had to be unscrewed, the top had to be lifted to gain access to the top 2 screws holding the front panel to to the main body. The barrel was then dropped and the rib belt removed from around it so I could set it aside. The clips were removed from the front and the back of the motor to gain access to the blower shaft. .The motor shaft is screwed into the blower shaft but it took me a while to figure out how to grab the blower shaft( made of hardened plastic?) with an adjustable wrench while torquing the end of the shaft with a (3/4"?) socket wrench. Access to the rear was rough, but getting the motor out an back in was easy. The spring tensioner for the belt was the next hurdle. With the s-curve facing outward and clipped to the base, the belt with the rib side wrapped around the barrel, the belt was slid between the roller and the tensioner bracket and wrapped around the motor drive rib side inward. I had to take the old motor to kind of prop up the barrel so I could at least see the tensioner and motor interface. I had to do a balance trick where I held the barrel up while centering it to the belt and the rear panel while ensuring the cloth seal was seated to the outside of the chamber. The front panel went on, and the front cloth seal was seated by spinning the barrel. The rest was just a matter of reversing the steps. Tons of lint/dust is probably what crashed this motor. Disassembling the front and the back allowed a thorough clean up - vacuuming and wipe down. Should go another 10 years/
I first disconnected the power cord and the vent hose. I removed the screws on the top of the back side to raise the top of the unit. There are also 2 screws holding the lint filter shoot which were also removed to allow the top to be lifted up. Its not necessary to remove the top since this would require disconnecting the wiring harness etc.Next I removed the 2 screws located on the top-inside surface, which connect the front panel to the unit. After these were removed, the front panel lifts up and off--there are two clips which slid free on the bottom of the unit. The shut off switch on the door has to be disconnected to remove the panel.With the front panel removed, the drum can be removed. I vacuumed out the interior and retrieved the idle pulley which had popped loose when the belt broke.I removed the old rear drum seal and cleaned the edge with some brake cleaner solvent and steel wool. I then wiped the edge with paper towel and more brake cleaner to remove any oily residues. Before applying the glue, I test fit the seal which turned out to be a bit tight, so I stretched it a bit around the drum until it would fit on easily.I used a disposible glue brush to spread a thin layer of the contact cement along the edge of the drum. By the time I finished one round, the glue was dry where I had started and so I did a second thin coat.I then oriented the seal as per the directions and began fitting onto the edge trying to keep the free felt surface from getting into the glue. By the time I had reach the opposite side, the belt was pretty tight and so I had to stretch it a bit to get it to go on. I then worked my way around the edge a final time insuring that the seal was positioned correctly all the way around and the glue was pressed tight. I let the glue set for several hours before reassembling.After the glue was dry, I put the drum back into the unit and worked the seal up onto the circular back panel until the groove on the drum was correctly positioned on the rear rollers. I propped the front edge of the drum on two 2 in rolls of duck tape so that I could rotate the drum freely several times. I checked the outside and inside to be sure that the seal was not turned under any place.Finally, I slipped the new belt over the drum and past my 2 rolls of tape and positioned it groove side in over the drum. I then reinserted the tensioning pulling back into the slot just in front of the motor. The pulley goes just to the left of the motor pulley, the end of the tap on the base inserts in a slot and then 2 pins rest in a second slot to the right of the first. A loop of the belt then passes through underneath the pulley and then over the motor pulley. This requires pulling the tensioning pulling pulley towards the motor to get enough slack. I then rotated the drum several times and made sure that the belt was not twisted and the groove side was towards the drum.To help hold the drum up while I was fitting the front panel. I supported the drum with a piece of 2 in tape run from the top/front edge of the drum to the back panel of the unit. I removed my two rolls of tape from under the unit, slipped the front panel back onto the two bottom clips, and then worked the front open of the drum over the front seal by opening the door and pushing from the inside and rotating the drum. I replugged the door switch and made sure the wire clips were secure.I then replaced the 2 screws to hold the front panel. I put the top back down and resecured the screws on the back before reattaching the hose and replugging the unit. I test ran the unit for several minutes empty, listening for weird noises that would indicate something didn't go together correctly.
Removed 2 screws in the lint filter and popped off the top. Removed the 2 screws holding the front panel on. Slid the drum off and set aside. Replaced support rollers. Placed the belt over the drum and placed the drum back in the dryer. Wound the belt over the tensioner and motor pulley. Turned the drum to keep seal from folding up. Replaced front and top. Tip: Use bungee cord or rope to hold top up and out of the way while doing this job.
Troubleshhot problem, used multimeter to verify current to motor. Once that i was sure motor was getting proper voltage, I used a meg-ohm meter on A/C motor windings and physically tried to turn motor and found that it was siezed. I then cleaned inside of unit inspected belt and drum rollors. Due to the cost of the items, I decided If I was going to replace the motor I should replace all moving parts, and install new belt. Everything went easy. WHAT WAS MOST IMPRESSIVE! was that the Parts people sent the correct parts on time the first time, with no hiddin charges. There web site should accurate diagrams of parts and internals of machine. I was really pleased and will use this service again. Thank you
This was so much easier than I though it was going to be. Pulled up on the top part of the dryer and folded it over to the back. Removed 2 screws for the front panel and disconnected some wires. Laying down I fed the new belt on and made sure the tensioner was put back into the right spot, because when the belt broke the tensioner sprung to the other end of its travel. Put everything back together. This was made super easy because you guys had the parts and the shipping was super fast. Alot of the local shops in the area didnt even carry the belt or were not helpful..
unplugged unit, opened lid, removed 2 screws & door switch from front panel, removed front panel & drum.Removed clips & washers from rear roller shafts, removed 2 screws (each) attaching rear roller shafts to rear of unit. Replaced rear roller shafts, thrust washers, rollers & clips. Removed clip from belt tensioner idler arm, replaced idler pulley wheel & clip.pulled tensioner toward motor side and locked in place with broomstick. Placed new belt over drum & installed drum/belt into unit, engaging rear drum lip over new rear drum support rollers. Guided beltover motor shaft and slowly released broomstick to tension belt. Turned drum by hand to ckeck belt tracking. Reinstalled front panel & door switch, installed 2 screws holding front panel to case. Closed lid. Plugged unit in & tested for proper operation-OK.
I followed the directions from a post on parts select that somebody had previously written and my repair worked out perfectly. I removed the top / lid of the dryer by placing a flat head screwdriver underneath both top front corners which was relatively simple. I then removed the entire front door of the dryer by disconnecting the electric wires for the door which again was a very simple procedure. The tumbler was now exposed at which time I removed the belt (I took a picture of the belt setup for later reassembly) and lifted the tumbler off giving myself easy access to the rear drum rollers and front drum pads. I was able to see that the wheels were worn and definitely the cause of the squealing. I changed out the wheels with replacement wheels which was self explanatory. The front pads were in good shape but I figured that at this point it would serve me well to replace them also which I did. I then reset the new belt (another part that I opted to change while I had the opportunity) on the tumbler with the picture in hand and had no problem. This step did require two people but still not a difficult step. I then put the door and lid back together and now had myself an extremely quiet dryer and a piece of mind that new parts were installed. All in all pretty easy repair.
Prop up the hood of the dryer with flat bar. Take out 2 screws holding dryer front end and 2 switch screws for dryer light inside dryer door. Secure dryer drum with bungee cord. Lift front end and remove. Remove broken belt. Route new belt over drum and pass underneatch idler pulley at botttom of dryer. Apply pressure to idler pulley w/one hand while securing belt around motor with the other. Make sure drum seals are snug between front and back of dryer while putting everything back together. Have confidence. This is a very easy fix.
Before anything else, I would like to thank your company for a quick response and fast delivery of the parts that I ordered. Ordering parts from your company saved me a lot of money. The repair took me about 15 min. First I removed the two screws that hold the front cover and then I pulled out the drum and replaced the broken pulley, then I put back the drum and the belt in place and then I put the cover and screwed back in and now I'm back washing and drying pile of clothes.
through the help of Parts select web site, i diagnosed the problem to the limit switch at the dryer element...I found the parts at Parts Select that included both limit switches and one control thermostat in one convient part number, the help videos are excellent, and the repair went flawlessly... basically the dryer front was removed, and then the drum with belt, that allowed me to get to both dryer element limit switches,and then replaced the thermostat at the bottom of the dryer below the drum, I reassembled the unit and it is working like new... thanks Parts Select, you saved me a lot of money.
Dryer started making noises years ago. Finally it was intermittently starting, then...didn't start at all. It made a buzzing noise, like the motor was in over-torque. Then it over heated and wouldn't do anything until it cooled down. Then the cycle started all over again. I thought it best to change out all the worn parts. Found the belt, the rear seal, the rollers and motor all needed to be replaced. All were very simple to do. Followed the instructions and videos from others located on this site.
Actually, I was the handy man. First I removed the front panel. Then I used 3 - 2x4s to hold up the drum. Then I slipped the belt around the center of the drum ,motor,and around the pulley at the bottom of the dryer. That was it, and then I put it back together. My wife was amazed and proud that I did it without calling for help! No Problem!
Raised the top of the dryer then took the front of the dryer off. Took the drum off. Replaced the pulley and support rollers. Then, put the new belt on and put it back together.
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