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PartSelect Number PS346995
This dryer drum belt has four ridges, three grooves and is 1/4" wide.
This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
This part provides the tension required for a multi-ribbed belt. It also serves to help the belt to rotate the drum. This arm is what attaches to the idler pulley wheel.
NOTE: This kit is for 29" wide dryers built 1965 or later. Please verify model # before ordering as may not work for all models.
This kit comes with one multi-rib belt, two drum support rollers, one idler pulley, four tri-rings, and one clip. This part can be used with both gas and electric dryers.
I replaced the paddle for the water dispenser in the refrigerator and in that process the ribbon cable shorted out from the bending and the electricity did not go through so I ordered a new ribbon cable which was easy to install.
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Removed and replaced terminal block, power cord and black wire to timer.
If you were to do the Belt Replacement only, here is the quick synopsis:1. Unplug dryer;2a. Open lint door on top of dryer and remove the two phillips head screws that hold the lint bay to the metal dryer top;2b. Next remove the two brakets holding the metal top to the dryer back (one screw on each bracket);3. Use a flat-blade screw driver to pry off the top of the dryer (leaving the timer and start button area attached);4. Lift off top and push back to expose just enough area so you can get to the two screws holding the dryer sides to the dryer front;5. Unplug door switch;6. Unscrew screws from #4;7. With door open, lift dryer front (only about an inch) and then pry bottom of dryer front from dryer sides. The bottom of the dryer front is not screwed, just siting on Front Panel Clips;8. Once the front is off the dryer, simply remove the belt and install the new one. Please note that while you are in here, you may want to inspect the rear drum seal and replace if it is worn to the point where metal is rubbing on metal. This is also a good time to clean out dust from inside this cavity to help extend the life of the bearings on the rollers and prevent dust from accumulating and gunking up the motor, etc. 9. Re-assemble tin the opposite order.If you have any mechanical sense at all and you don't know anything about dryers, you will be surprised at the simplicity of the dryer.
I removed the 2 screws that hold the ignighter & cover in place...unpluged the wire...replaced it with the new ignighter...thats when I found out that it was easier to take off than to put on...but I got it back into place...replaced the 2 screws...put the new belt on the drum...fitted it around the moter...pulled the wheel spring back to get it on tight...made sure the drum was fitted around the wheels...checked the tension...plugged in the wire for the ignighter...tested to see if the ignighter glowed...it did...I but the door back on the dryer...and it works...i thank my father for showing me how to work on machines...instead of letting me play with my dolls...thank you Parts select for getting my order to me in great condition & record time...
Raise the top of the dryer. This exposed the elements in the back. Removed old elements,paying attention to where the wires go.Installed new elements, hooked the wires up, and I was done.
I opened up the dryer as per the instructions I had received from PartSelect tech support. It was very easy to do. The only unexpected thing was that the original belt had snapped and in doing so the idler pulley was actually laying on the floor of the dryer's bottom. I had to figure out how it went, but that only took a minute and I popped it back into place. I held the drum by hand while pulling the dryer face away so it wouldn't fall and then I slipped the belt over the drum and quickly closed the front up again. I aligned the belt on the spot where the old one had been, pulled it through the idler pulley and over the motor and voila. Done. I closed up the dryer and was on to another "Honey Do" project within 20 minutes.
1) Removed top of dryer2) removed belt and drum3) removed front of dryer4) popped clips holding down motor5) unscrewed rear fan from motor (by exposing and holding fan)6) changed motor 7) changed support rollers and idler pully8) reassemled dryer
I lifted the top of the dryer cabinet, like the hood of a car using a screwdriver to pry it open. I removed the two screws in the upper right corner of the cabinet front. I disconnected the safty switch on the front door. The front of the cabinet can then be removed by lifting up the front off the pins in the base. With the drum exposed you can place the belt on and thread it through the two pulleys on the motor. Consult the diagrams provided on the PartsSelect website for the proper positioning of the belt on the pulleys. After the belt is installed spin the drum by hand one turn to make sure that it is seated properly on the drum and pulleys. Reassemble the dryer in the reverve order.
First, I unplugged it and pulled it away from the wall. Then I pryed the front of the top up. It is scary to apply that much force, but the clips did not break. It opens like a car hood. Then I removed the two sheet metal screws that hold the front to the sides. Don't forget to unplug and unclip the door switch wires. Then I lifted the front off the bottom clips. Be sure to hold the drum up when you do this. Three hands will make it easier. Then remove the drum and belt. The belt tensioner will fall off, but that is ok. I thought the problem would turn out to be the motor, but instead it was the front seal for the drum. It is felt and had broken. It folded under itself and was jamming the drum to the point that the motor couldn't turn it. I replaced the felt seal, which attaches to the front cover with three clips and also replaced the plastic guides, which clip to the drum. Both were easy to do. I had replaced the rear drum seal a few years ago and so it was ok, otherwise I would recommend doing that too.While I had it apart, I opened up the back and cleaned out all the lint in the fan housing. I had replaced the heater element, thermal switch and fuse a few years ago, so they were fine.I also replaced the mosture sensor, just because it only cost $11. I bought a new lint filter, because it had holes in it after 20 years. I replaced the belt, because it was only $10. I replaced the lint filter cover and front door handle, because they had yellowed. I will warn you about the front door handle. It was a bear. I finally had to take the door apart to get the little plastic clip to seat correctly. Then I put it all back together, which again is easier with 3 hands. Holding up the drum and putting the front cover on the lower clips can be a bit tricky alone. Also, be sure to rotate the drum to make sure the rear seal is not folded under and the front seal is seated correclty. I fired it up and it ran great, except for the constant whistling. I had wondered what the little clear plastic box in the back did. Turns out it is the lint filter is full whistle warning thing. I took the back off again and found a wire was resting on the flapper door of the box and holding it in the wrong postion. By the way, it is a really irritating sound after the first few minutes. I moved the wire and it works great. I worked slowly and it went well and was not hard.
Found one of the two drum support rollers was badly worn. Found Partselect.com, found my parts in less then 2 mins. Figured that I was in there so I should just replace the belt so I got one of those also. Parts arrived in 3 days dryer as good as new in 20 mins.
I wasn't sure if the problem was the belt (probable) or the idler pulley assembly (less likely) but the total for both parts was about $26 plus shipping. So why not replace both to be sure?As it turns out, my original idler pulley assembly does not turn. Rather, it has a concave semi-circular piece that is fixed in place. The belt ran in a groove in that piece.The replacement part has a nylon wheel that turns. As a result of replacing the idler pulley assembly (which I don't think was necessary to fix my tumbling problem) the dryer runs much quieter. (We used to get a fair amount of squeaking when the belt rubbed).As for the actual repair (I would rate myself as above average on tackling household repairs), it was about the simplest repair I've ever done. I followed the video provided on this site (excellent video) and it took less than 20 minutes -- cleaning up all of the lint/odds and ends under the washer and dryer took longer than the actual repair.My only issue (minor) was disconnecting the electric harness. It did not slide as easily as in the video. I had to coax mine a bit with a small screwdriver (make sure your dryer is unplugged!!). I suspect it was simply a function of the harness never being unplugged -- the dryer is 9 years old.I also felt great because I'm sure I saved a $125 service call (for only $26 in parts and 20 minutes of my life).Good luck!
replaced motor and drum rear seal as well as idler wheels, the old rear drum seal was completly worn out, since I had it all apart, I replaced lint chute and trap seals and belt and tensioner. I spent less money on parts than if I would have bought a new dryer. The motor was the main problem as the bearings were shot.
Removed back of dryer, there were 3 screws on each side. There were two thermostats on the output vent and one thermostat on the heating element housing. Adjusted the temp settings on the thermostats per the instructions received with each thermostat (cross-refernece of original number required). Each thermostat had two screws and two wires. Terminals were coded "1" and "3," must get correct wires back in same place. The heating element thermostat required to splice new connector on one wire (per instructions enclosed with thermostat).. Easy as pie. BELT: Remove screws from lint screen housing, then pry up front of top of dryer and swing back (make sure you are next to the wall so it doesn't fall.) Remove the bottom front panel, remove the door tension springs, remove the two screws on the front of the front panel and remove the two top screws on the inside of the door panel (leave the door attached, but use tape to hold it shut so it doesn't hit you on the head) Careful of the door switch wire, carefully lean door up so it doesn't fall. The Drum will fall when front panel is removed, so have someone to help you hold it up. You do not have to remove the drum. With your frend holding the drum, go under and pull the tension spring roller back to slack up the belt and remove the belt from the tensioner and motor pulley. Remove belt from drum. Wrap new belt around drum (ribs down facing drum) and re-route belt around pulleys according to diagram in instructions (same way you pulled it off). I did it by myself, but I got konked in the head by the door, so be careful. Easy, but awkward. Watch for sharp sheetmetal edges.
Braced dryer drum with a block. Removed the two rollers one at a time by using a screwdriver to pop off the triangular clip. Slid on new rollers. Would have been easier to remove the drum out the front instead of bracing it. Installed new idler pulley and belt. Dryer is 25 years old and sounds like a new one now when running.
Looking at the schematics, it wasn't clear exactly where the motor was located. I took off the rear panel thinking I could get to the motor through the blower. Realizing that was a no-go, I did some web searching and found that the lint screen chute had to be unscrewed, the top had to be lifted to gain access to the top 2 screws holding the front panel to to the main body. The barrel was then dropped and the rib belt removed from around it so I could set it aside. The clips were removed from the front and the back of the motor to gain access to the blower shaft. .The motor shaft is screwed into the blower shaft but it took me a while to figure out how to grab the blower shaft( made of hardened plastic?) with an adjustable wrench while torquing the end of the shaft with a (3/4"?) socket wrench. Access to the rear was rough, but getting the motor out an back in was easy. The spring tensioner for the belt was the next hurdle. With the s-curve facing outward and clipped to the base, the belt with the rib side wrapped around the barrel, the belt was slid between the roller and the tensioner bracket and wrapped around the motor drive rib side inward. I had to take the old motor to kind of prop up the barrel so I could at least see the tensioner and motor interface. I had to do a balance trick where I held the barrel up while centering it to the belt and the rear panel while ensuring the cloth seal was seated to the outside of the chamber. The front panel went on, and the front cloth seal was seated by spinning the barrel. The rest was just a matter of reversing the steps. Tons of lint/dust is probably what crashed this motor. Disassembling the front and the back allowed a thorough clean up - vacuuming and wipe down. Should go another 10 years/
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