Thermal Fuse

this was a super easy job! i unplugged the dryer, removed the back panel, located the fuse on the bottom left side, replaced it, put the panel back on, plugged it back in and IT WORKED! this was the first appliance repair job for me and i am so glad i found this site. it probably saved me $100.00 or so doing it myself. thank you!!!

Installed fuse and two thermostat parts. Your system of correlating problem to part needed to fix the problem is a really good system.

it would spin and blow, but it would not get hot. i changed the heating element, but that was not the problem. i changed the fuse, but that was not the problem. Apparently there is another fuse in line, and that was the problem.

Tested with a voltage meter.

Changed the cycling thermostat and fuses but with no success. I am not sure how to access the ignitor and burner or heating coils as the cover does not have screws. Can anyone offer suggestions

removed back panel, removed thermal fuse and tested it to find it was not working, ordered replacement fuse and operating thermostat (which was a recommended replacement if replacing the fuse), replaced both parts and dryer worked again

After opening the rear cover to the control panel, I located a schematic diagram of the dryer which greatly aided in the repair. I began troubleshooting using the half-split method this required removal of the back and front covers). I found voltage at the input of the thermal fuse but none at the output. I then removed the thermal fuse to do a continuity check on the fuse and it revealed a defective thermal fuse. The fuse was held in place by 1, 1/4" head machine screw. I placed the part on order through PartSelect.com. The part was shipped the next day and received the day after that. I installed the new thermal fuse and all is well in my household (now that the dryer works again).

I needed to diagnose what the issue was. Several different parts can cause the heat in the dryer not to work. I tested each fuse with an Ohm meter and determined the Thermal fuse was displaying incorrectly on the Ohm Meter. So I disconnected the Thermal fuse's two plugs and taped them together (thus bypassing the fuse...just to validate). I turned the dryer on and bingo...heat. After that it just took 5 minutes to replace the Thermal Fuse.

Unplugged the dryer from the electrical outlet.
Pulled out the dryer from against the wall, allowing room for me to work.
Turned off the gas to the dryer.
Removed all the screws from the black panel covering the cabinet, not from the console control.
Pulled off the black panel.
Located Thermal Fuse (two wires coming from it) at the bottom, just above Thermostat (several wires coming from it). Removed single screw attaching the Fuse.
Tested Thermal Fuse with MultiMeter set to Ohm for continuity. No continuity means the fuse was blown so I needed to replace it.

Since the back panel was already removed, I replaced the Thermostat for good measure. Just remembered to mark which wires went where and replaced Thermostat.
You can test before replacing everything.

After reading most of the repair stories i decided that these two pieces were the main culprits of not having heat so i just decided to jump in and do it myself. This repair was fairly simple. I unplugged the dryer first. The dryer was a gas dryer but i did not turn off the gas. I then took the off the large metal cover on the back of the dryer as well as the air vent coming in. This required removing eight screws from the panel. Once i took off the plate, the fuse and thermostat were in plain view. I then removed the screws which secured these pieces in place and unattached the wires connected to them. There were about four wires for each piece and i just reattached the wires to the exact same spot on the new pieces. Just remember which wire goes with the right connection. They just slid onto the connector. The only difficulty was that a couple of the wires were a little snug on the connection so i had to use small pliers to pry them free. Once they were in place and i put the panel back on and plugged the dryer back on. I started it and within a few seconds the dryer kicked on and we had heat. These two procedures were quick and very easy for even the simplest handy person.

First I checked for power at the outlet (240volts-power good). I then removed 9 screws holding the back cover. I then turned the timer to run position and pushed the start button this allowed me to hear the timer andvance. So I disconnected power to the dryer and removed the wires to the thermal fuse. I then took a ohms reading across the fuse...it showed open. Removed one screw replaced fuse.

removed the rear panel to gain access to the internals of the dryer, removed the one screw that retains the fuse, out with the old and in with the new.
delivery of the part was 2 days sooner than expected.
could not have been a simpler process!

One circuit breaker in the 220 pair decided to go bad. The Thermal fuse also went at the same time. After I found the bad breaker and replaced it, I then got the wiring diagram and tested the switches and other parts and found an open thermal fuse. Dryer works now.

I removed the back of the dryer, removed the single screw holding the fuse in place and checked it for continuity. It didn't work, so I placed an order and 3 days later I was back in business. the replacement took about five minutes.

Repair tech arrived at my house with no flashlight, vacuum or model info. Removed the bottom panel, looked inside and told my wife we needed a new dryer. $65 fee and waited all day for his arrival. I researched common dryer failures and determined the belt came off due to massive lint build up. This was cuased by the aluminum hose exiting through untempered space in the winter, condensating and causing lint to stick to the hose, eventually backing up into the dryer. With a new belt, broken belt switch & thermal fuse, I pulled off the face of the dryer, pulled the drum completely out, vacuumed, identified the parts (service tech manuals are taped to the inside of the dryer, not for homeowner use,all the answers and diagrams found here) popped the new belt on over the pulley, did not replace broken belt sitch( if the belt breaks or stretches, the springloaded lever trips the power to the motor, replaced the thermal fuse (very easy) and screwed the front back on. Purs like a kitten. Saved about $900 clams.