Thermal Fuse

The major issue was getting the dryer out and cleaning it all up. That's what took the time but it was worth it to clean out the lint in the ducts, etc.. Putting the thermal fuse was a snap thanks to the great feedback received when I got this web site and read the previous responses.

It took me 5 minutes to find PartSelect's site, read the comments about the most common problems and identify the solution. The exploded views were a great assist, as it wasn't obvious where the thermal fuse is located or which access panel to remove.

It took less than 5 minutes to remove the rear panel and install a temporary jumper to verify the blown fuse was the only issue. With the new fuse in hand, replair took another 5 minutes.

A word of caution to anyone replacing is fuse - I found that the exhaust vent pipe to the wall was full of lint and nearly blocked. This is a potential fire hazard. While enough air was passing through the flapper vent to make it look like it was OK, the exhaust resistance is what caused the overheating and made the fuse blow.

I spent more time cleaning out the vent pipe than replacing the fuse, for a total of 25 minutes. I strongly urge all dryer owners to physically inspect the exhaust duct annually.

PS Drying time has decreased by 30-40% since the repair.

Went to literature for info only to find that there was no electrical schematic or part numbers given for repair. Disconnected vent and removed back (6 hexhead screws). Removing and testing my parts then matching the parts with pictures found on parts select and using the numbers found on the parts, was able to order a new thermal fuse and also replace the cycling thermostat. Tested the unit, replaced the back with screws, cleaned & connected the vent then went on to start dirtying more clothes.

There was no heat but the dryer would operate properly in all other functions. I checked the ignitor (gas dryer) with a meter and it was okay. I traced the circut back and ended up at the thermal fuse and it was "open" I jumped it out and the dryer started to work. I knew the problem was the thermal fuse but more importantly why did it blow. Further investigation showed excessive lint in the duct. Needed to take the exhaust system apart and clean out the lint. also replaced the flexible dryer (too difficult to clean) and to make sure that I didn't over work the high/low thermostat and would be doing this repair again in the near future I replaced that also. Be careful and do not jump out the fuse and use the dryer as this will cause a fire. I did it to prove the problem only... Dryer works well again and we will probably get another 5 years out of it!

Al
hrguy@comcast.net

The repair, replacing the thernal fuse was easy, just one screw and then remove and replace by disconnecting and reconnecting two wires. It did take a bit of time to find which part was defective. I first removed the back panel and front panel and the drum to get at the igniter and flame window. I checked continuity of these parts as well as the gas solenoids and they all checked out ok. The thermal fuse was last on my list. It read as an open circuit. I temporarily jumpered the two wires at the fuse and checked that the igniter would now heat up. I spent over one hour removing the ductwork and giving the unit a thorough cleaning with a shop vac.

tested continuity, determined thermal fuse was open. PartSelect sent a new fuse very quickly, and it was just a matter of reconnecting the wires and putting the back cover on the dryer. Started right up.

Dryer stopped in the middle of a cycle. I opened the back and traced the feed wires from the power cord. With a volt meter I checked the thermal fuse which is were the power cord goes to first. It had power on the line side and none on the load side. this is the easy fix. Ps unplug unit while tracing the wires. Most of this is done without seeing them very clearly. I should also say I am a licensed Master electrician with over 30 years of trouble shooting.

Took back panel off dryer, unscrewed old part, put on new one. Easy fix. Dryer works great again.

I studied the wiring diagram on the back of the dryer. I diagnosed a bad thermal fuse (no continuity). Found the part online at Part Select. The part came a few days later and I was back in business. Great Service.

How I did the repair is of little importance. What is important and impressive is the level of service your company provides. You must have a fantastic system in place and a team who has bought into the concept of providing the best customer service possible. I have been a Manager for over 15 years and would go home proud and would sleep well every night if my team offered the service your team does. Please share this feedback with them and take the time to shake the hand of everyone who was in the chain of service of this order. Smile and tell them Russell C says well done and thank you. Your team made my life easier and I feel appreciated as a customer of your Company.

First I tested the fuse using my Volt-ohm meter, which showed a zero reading. So I knew what I needed and ordered it from you guys. To be safe I took the dryer apart and cleaned it good, when and while I reassembled it I replaced the old fuse with the new and now she's like brand new> I spent about $12.00 but I saved $600.00..Thank You "PartSelect"..

I was directed to the cycling thermostat for my problem. The thermal fuse was another possibility. I was too lazy to check them with a VOM before ordering so I ordered both. The repair video was helpful and the assembly diagram was useful for locating the parts. I removed the 9 back panel screws with a 1/4" socket wrench and removed the panel. Each part is held with a sheet metal screw which are removed with a screw driver. The connectors were very tight and I used pliers to pull them off the parts. The parts pop out of the mounting slots and are easily replaced and secured with the screws. I labelled all the wires (2 for the thermal fuse and 4 for the thermistor) but the polarity probably does not matter. I replaced the wires, replaced the back panel and replaced the 1/4" screws. The dryer works again. I checked the old parts with a VOM and found that only the cycling thermistor was bad, so now I have a spare thermal fuse.

Through reading I thought it was the thermostat or thermal fuse. I bought both and received the parts very quickly. Unfortunately that was not the issue. Dryer still doesn't work and I got a new one. It was worth it and I would use part select again hopefully next time I know what I am doing.

Replaced thermal fuse, cycling thermostat, igniter kit and thermostate. Dryer still does not work, still no heat.

Have ordered gas valve solinoids to try next.

Actually two sets of parts were purchased. First I replaced the Igniter, thermostat and cysling thermostat. I would suggest starting out replaceing the thermal fuse and then go down the list. The last part I replaced seemed to be the problem. Replacement of the thermal fuse and thermostats was very simple, remove the back and replace the parts. The coil and igniter were more difficult. I had to remove the screws form the lid, pry open the top, remove inside screws and then access the igniter and coil. Instructions provided for igniter were useful, but there was one screw hidden from view that was not included in the instructions. Dryer is now working