344761-1-S-Whirlpool-338906            -Radiant Flame Sensor
344761-1-S-Whirlpool-338906            -Radiant Flame Sensor 344761-2-S-Whirlpool-338906            -Radiant Flame Sensor 344761-3-S-Whirlpool-338906            -Radiant Flame Sensor http://www.partselect.com/Schematics/Maytag/4LNNCW1Q.gif

Radiant Flame Sensor

PartSelect Number PS344761

This part senses the flame for heat allowing the gas valve to open.

This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.

This part fixes the following symptoms:

  • No heat or not enough heat.
  • Takes too long to dry.
  • Shuts off too soon.
  • Will Not Start.
  • Compare At

    $34.03
  • You Save

    $5.67
  • Your Price

    $28.36
In Stock
Fast Shipping Get this part fast. Average delivery time via regular ground: 1.8 days.

Videos For installing this part.

Installation Instructions Provided by PartSelect customers like you.

Average Repair Rating: 3.8 / 5.0, 24 reviews What's this?
1-5 of 24
 

288 of 344 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
Level of Difficulty: Easy
Time to do repair: 30 - 60 mins
Tools: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Customer: Michael from Kirkwood, MO

Gas dryer would not ignite

1. Removed lint screen and holder frame. Unplugged the electrical cord and closed the gas valve in the line before it goes into the dryer.
2. Removed two bolts at bottom front of machine and took off the bottom front panel.
3. Removed three bolts from black plastic exit vent and took it out to give more room to access everything.
4. removed two wires and screws on the limit thermostat. Did the reverse to place the new one.
5. Removed wires (remembering placement), then holder screw. rotated the Gas Dryer Sensor counter clockwise to release the bottom tab so the sensor can be taken off the flame tube. Did the reverse to place the new one on.
6. Removed the one screw on the gas/flame tube that holds the bracket and igniter inside the flame tube. Removed the wires fro the igniter (remember placement) Slid the whole assembly toward the back of the machine to get the tube off the gas valve then rotated the whole assembly counter-clocwise to release the tab on the left side of the bracket. This was a little tight and had to work with it a bit to get the tab out and slide the whole piece out of the flame tube.
7. Once the tube and igniter were out i removed the scree that holds the igniter and replaced with the new one. Made sure no dust, etc. was in the piece.
8. Did the reverse to place the tube/igniter back into the flame tube.
9. Carefully and forcefully removed the wire connectors to the two coils. These were tough to get off. Removed the two screws that hold the bracket that holds the two coils in place. Slid the coils off the spindles remembering which one has the two wire connection and which one has the three wire connection and the way they went on. Replaced the old with the new. Placed the bracket onto the new coils and made sure the little bumps on the top are in the holes in the bracket. Tightened the screws to hold the coil bracket. Reattached the wire connectors to the coils making sure they go ALL the way back on.
10. Vaccumed everything I could to get lint, dust, etc. out.
11.Replaced the black vent plastic.
12 Made sure the exit vent on the back was not crimped or clogged. Checked the little flap door where the vent goes outside to make sure it opens and closes super easy to no air flow is restricted.
13. For testing I left the bottom panel open. Make sure you closed the door, reconnect the plug and turn the gas valve back on. Hit the go button on autodry or timed dry. The door must be closed to create the closed circulation of the system so the fan sucks the flame into the tube otherwise the flame will not fire deep into the tube and will set off one fo the overheat sensors. After hitting the go button your drum will start to rotate, then a few seconds later you'll hear a click and your igniter will start to burn bright orange. Another click and the gas should flow and ignite.
14. This shows that you've fixed the ignition problem. I just replaced everything I thought that could be wrong in stead of hunting and trial and error. All the parts were about $137 so I thought it was worth making sure.
15. IMPORTANT: If during your test the flame turns off after a little while then turns back on only to turn off again, don't panic. This happened to me as well. I found that you need to run the dryer with wet clothes in the dryer. The wetness in the clothes will keep the autodry sensor from shutting off the dryer since there will be moisture in the exhaust. If it's on timed dry the wet clothes will cool the exhaust air and keep the overheat sensors from turning the heat off. So no heating of dry clothes to get out wrinkles. Just dry the wet clothes. This is all I did and it's been working great so far. Good Luck!

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47 of 61 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
Level of Difficulty: Really Easy
Time to do repair: 15 - 30 mins
Tools: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Customer: Doug from Walden, NY

Maytag dyer stopped heating

My 20 yr old Maytag dryer had experienced this problem about 10 years ago. At that time I replace the Gas Dyer Radiant Flame sensor and it fixed the problem. I figured a sensor went bad again however I opted to replace all of the sensors at once thinking I'm avoiding potential future issues and the dryer will out live me. Replacing the sensors is a piece of cake on my Maytag. A nutdriver and srewdriver was all that I needed. PartSelect was great to deal with and the parts did the trick.

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43 of 58 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
  • Radiant Flame Sensor
Level of Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
Time to do repair: 15 - 30 mins
Tools: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Customer: FRED from BRIELLE, NJ

Gas flame would drop out

First it was a process of alimination to find out why it was dropping out. After the problem was found it was just a matter of replacing the holding coil on the gas valve. Thank you fred kenney sr

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27 of 31 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
Level of Difficulty: Easy
Time to do repair: Less than 15 mins
Tools: Screw drivers, Socket set
Customer: Richard from Jerome, MI

Dryer would dry for 5-10 minuets then no heat

I tested the dryer coils and found that they were getting a voltage but would not open the gas valve. Coils were not bad but weak. After they warmed up they would not open the gas valve. It took 10 min to repace both coils and the heat sensor.

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22 of 24 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
  • Radiant Flame Sensor
Level of Difficulty: Really Easy
Time to do repair: Less than 15 mins
Tools: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Customer: Roger from Bonners Ferry, ID

Dryer would not heat up.

I unplugged the dryer,removed the two small screws on the front of the dryer and pulled the bottom forward. The two wires connected to the door do not have to be removed. With an electrical tester using the Ohm setting I tested the Radiant sensor and the Gas Valve coils. The two terminal coil was DOA. The dryer can be operated with the front open as long as the door wires are connected. Symptons: The igniter would heat up and not release gas. My repair was successfull due to this awesome website and the super fast shipping service. AAAA++++

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