Cycling Thermostat

they sent the wrong part . when i got the right part i removed the two screws holding the element . took the Thermostat out . removed the plugs . put the new thermostat in plug in the plugs. screwed the element back in place . And now i need to replace the fuse located at the top of the element casing.

I was directed to the cycling thermostat for my problem. The thermal fuse was another possibility. I was too lazy to check them with a VOM before ordering so I ordered both. The repair video was helpful and the assembly diagram was useful for locating the parts. I removed the 9 back panel screws with a 1/4" socket wrench and removed the panel. Each part is held with a sheet metal screw which are removed with a screw driver. The connectors were very tight and I used pliers to pull them off the parts. The parts pop out of the mounting slots and are easily replaced and secured with the screws. I labelled all the wires (2 for the thermal fuse and 4 for the thermistor) but the polarity probably does not matter. I replaced the wires, replaced the back panel and replaced the 1/4" screws. The dryer works again. I checked the old parts with a VOM and found that only the cycling thermistor was bad, so now I have a spare thermal fuse.

Replaced 2 thermostats, flame sensor, gas vale and solenoids. After each part was replaced, I started the dryer to see if the replaced part solved the problem. It did not, or so it seemed. Now, and this is important evidently: all the time I ran the tests post part replacement, the dryer was without the tumbler or any front end ducting in place. Out of frustration and a tickle of intuition, I reassembled the dryer, ran the test, and intuition proved itself as the dryer is working properly. My conclusion: You cannot run an accurate test result without the tumbler and ducting in place. I don't know why, but this seems to be necessary. new gas valve gave the dryer a much healthier flame.

Replaced thermal fuse, cycling thermostat, igniter kit and thermostate. Dryer still does not work, still no heat.

Have ordered gas valve solinoids to try next.

Installed fuse and two thermostat parts. Your system of correlating problem to part needed to fix the problem is a really good system.

I took the back off 1st put the element and thermostats in... 2nd I took the front off the dryer and replaced the belt.....3rd I blew out all the lint and dust and then put it back together it was a cake walk...I want to add that the parts arrived extremely "FAST" and "ACCURATE"... which made the job that much easier.....

removed back panel, removed thermal fuse and tested it to find it was not working, ordered replacement fuse and operating thermostat (which was a recommended replacement if replacing the fuse), replaced both parts and dryer worked again

The first thing I did was google "whirlpool dryer repair drying takes too long" to determine all of the possible parts I needed to order (the result was 3 possible parts, a heating element and two different thermostats). I then went to www.partselect.com (I'm a repeat customer) and searched the parts using the dryer model number listed just inside the door. I then printed the dryer model diagram off of the www.partselect.com website to determine the location of all the parts and how to replace them. Our first purchase was the new heating element from the www.partselect.com website, received it in just a couple of days and replaced it, but that did not fix the problem. We then ordered the two thermostats, again received them in 2-3 days, replaced them, and were drying clothes in <30 min. in no time! All we had to do was unplug the dryer, disconnect the vent hose, take the back off, unscrew each thermostat, disconnect the wires, install the new thermostats, reconnect the wires, screw the thermostats back in place, replace the back cover, reconnect the vent hose and plug the dryer back in. It took <15 min. for the complete repair! Thanks, www.partselect.com! I will continue to be a repeat customer!!!!!

repair wasfairly easy,part select custemer stories and advice really helped.parts were shipped sooner then exepected,i will recomend part select to everyone i know.

Unplugged the dryer from the electrical outlet.
Pulled out the dryer from against the wall, allowing room for me to work.
Turned off the gas to the dryer.
Removed all the screws from the black panel covering the cabinet, not from the console control.
Pulled off the black panel.
Located Thermal Fuse (two wires coming from it) at the bottom, just above Thermostat (several wires coming from it). Removed single screw attaching the Fuse.
Tested Thermal Fuse with MultiMeter set to Ohm for continuity. No continuity means the fuse was blown so I needed to replace it.

Since the back panel was already removed, I replaced the Thermostat for good measure. Just remembered to mark which wires went where and replaced Thermostat.
You can test before replacing everything.

After reading most of the repair stories i decided that these two pieces were the main culprits of not having heat so i just decided to jump in and do it myself. This repair was fairly simple. I unplugged the dryer first. The dryer was a gas dryer but i did not turn off the gas. I then took the off the large metal cover on the back of the dryer as well as the air vent coming in. This required removing eight screws from the panel. Once i took off the plate, the fuse and thermostat were in plain view. I then removed the screws which secured these pieces in place and unattached the wires connected to them. There were about four wires for each piece and i just reattached the wires to the exact same spot on the new pieces. Just remember which wire goes with the right connection. They just slid onto the connector. The only difficulty was that a couple of the wires were a little snug on the connection so i had to use small pliers to pry them free. Once they were in place and i put the panel back on and plugged the dryer back on. I started it and within a few seconds the dryer kicked on and we had heat. These two procedures were quick and very easy for even the simplest handy person.

First I checked for power at the outlet (240volts-power good). I then removed 9 screws holding the back cover. I then turned the timer to run position and pushed the start button this allowed me to hear the timer andvance. So I disconnected power to the dryer and removed the wires to the thermal fuse. I then took a ohms reading across the fuse...it showed open. Removed one screw replaced fuse.

It was fairly easy. I took the back cover off, located the parts, took them out and replaced them with new ones.

Not noticing the break in the heat coil, I ordered two other minor parts, before ordering the heat coil. Less than 10 minutes to replace the old one, and now it works great! Thank you for your installation instructions and parts diagrams!

I followed the diagnosis sequence found on your website. The detailed diagrams of the unit helped. I tried to use the factory website but it assumed the reader had a certain amount of practical repair experience. The parts were delivered very quickly. I would have liked to have known if there was some way to test with a meter some of the original components I eventually had to purchase so I could narrow the problem down more closely.