344087-1-S-Whirlpool-3379369           -Upper Wash Assembly
344087-1-S-Whirlpool-3379369           -Upper Wash Assembly 344087-2-S-Whirlpool-3379369           -Upper Wash Assembly 344087-3-S-Whirlpool-3379369           -Upper Wash Assembly http://www.partselect.com/Schematics/Whirlpool/Whirlpool_Thumb/7NWEWPKZ.gif

Upper Wash Assembly

PartSelect Number PS344087

NOTE: *Original may have two screw holes, only one screw is needed now.

This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.

This part fixes the following symptoms:

  • Not cleaning dishes properly.
  • Leaking.
  • Compare At

    $21.06
  • You Save

    $3.51
  • Your Price

    $17.55
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Videos For installing this part.

Installation Instructions Provided by PartSelect customers like you.

Average Repair Rating: 4.2 / 5.0, 19 reviews What's this?
1-5 of 19
 

26 of 28 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used

  • Upper Wash Assembly

Level of DifficultyA Bit Difficult

Time to do repair:Less than 15 mins

Tools

CustomerLOUIS from SAN ANTONIO, TX

Glasses and dishes had cooked on film on them due to no upper spinner rinse.

Need needle nose pliers to remove the keepers in the end stops on basket rails. Basket must be removed to get to the spinner assimbley.
The upper rinse spinner is held in place by a stainless steal bracket. NO SCREWS!
1. You push the spinner assembly up and push it to the back of the machine.
2. Then you pull the spinner assembly down to clear the bracket and then pull it to the front of the machine.
3. To replace it just reverse the procedure.
Used part # 3379329.

Louis at ljsengele@att.net

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22 of 25 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used

Level of DifficultyReally Easy

Time to do repair:Less than 15 mins

ToolsPliers, Screw drivers

CustomerPamela from St. Petersburg, FL

The upper wash assembly broke off. Then the middle wash arm tube just literally fell apart. I was concerned at first at the design changes, but I can see the wisdom in them. It only took a few minutes to repair and now it's like a new machine again. All for $20 instead of $500 or more for a new

First I took out the upper rack, unscrewed the old remains and screwed in the new part. Next, I took out the upper rack, turned it over, removed the old hanger (no longer necessary with newly designed part), unscrewed the other part, and screwed on the new part. So easy! And one more thing-I ordered my part on a Fri. and it was on my porch by the following Tues. Now THAT'S service! - Pam

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14 of 17 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used

Level of DifficultyA Bit Difficult

Time to do repair:1- 2 hours

ToolsScrew drivers

CustomerWesley from Lake Elmo, MN

Dishwasher not cleaning well... then leaking

This gets a little lengthy... but it explains where Cascade Dishwashing Powder came up with its brand name - it's been a cascade project.
I started by replacing the Middle Wash Arm Tube as the old tube developed leaks. As others have stated this is a new design but directly replaceable and easy to do.
This didn't solve the cleaning issue so reading the experiences of others on this site realized I also had broken parts in the Upper Spray Arm Assembly and the Upper Wash assembly. I replaced these and the dishes were suddenly much, much cleaner. These were very easily replaced.
I did find that I did not need the Mount for the upper spray arm (PS402277) as a redesign of the Upper Spray Arm Mounting bracket no longer required it - the bracket simply clipped in -the diagram was out of date.
Everything seemed to go well for about 3 loads when the dishwasher started leaking heavily out of the bottom of the door. I then noticed that the lower Wash Arm Bearing Ring and the Seal, Lower Spray Arm had disintegrated so I replaced those but this didn't affect the leaking. Someone had stated that if the lower wash arm assembly had too much 'wobble' that it cause 'waves' that would leak out the front door... mine had some wobble so I added a nylon washer from Ace Hardware that reduced wobble but still leaked.
I then replaced the Door Seal Kit - this was by far the most difficult part as the door needed to be removed and it was somewhat difficult - and it seemed apparent after we had removed the door that these parts weren't the problem but we replaced them anyway.
Also, someone else had noted that they had to attach the door seal (this is NOT the gasket that goes around the door opening) with a sealant - I had the same problem; the original seal fit tightly with friction but the new replacement required an adhesive - I used silicone. Still leaked.
From here on I can't guaratee any useful information: I took the strainer screen out of the bottom of the dishwasher and found one slightly loose screw holding what I believe is the 'pump outlet' according to the diagram. I had also read that the water fill is controlled not by the float at the bottom of the washer but by the electronics and it was suggested that I disconnect the DW from the power to 'reset' the timer, this I did and hit the 'Cancel' cycle a couple of times to make sure that all programs were cancelled. Whether any of this made a difference I have no idea - except that the dishwasher suddenly stopped leaking and hasn't leaked a drop for at least 20 washes. So I don't know, for sure, why it leaked or how I fixed it, but it's working and washing great now - except the tines on the lower rack are beginning to rust out and breaking off. The rack is pretty expensive but so far I've saved a lot of money and my family thinks I'm a dishwasher genius.

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12 of 14 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used

Level of DifficultyA Bit Difficult

Time to do repair:30 - 60 mins

ToolsScrew drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)

CustomerJohn from Manchester, CT

Dishwasher rehab

After hearing ominous grinding sounds and water leaking around the gasket, it was about time to rehab the dishwasher. This is usually the point where I say "t'hell with it, buy a new one". I am glad I didn't.
The Kit to rehab the impeller and such had EVERYTHING I needed. Right parts, right price.
Removed the upper arm assembly, T15 screwdriver, the screen strainer, the impeller, T25 screwdriver, the food grinding spring and impeller (the grinding noise, spring was sprung), and finally the post and impeller thingie (had to break it off, very brittle). The pieces went back on a lot more smoothly than it took to get them off!
Use your digital camera! I took pictures of every stage of the parts removal and what I removed. I got confused with some little balls that were inside and the pictures told me exactly where they went.
Door gasket? I should have replaced it YEARS ago, so easy and cheap with PartSelect parts.

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6 of 6 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used

  • Upper Wash Assembly

Level of DifficultyReally Easy

Time to do repair:Less than 15 mins

ToolsScrew drivers

CustomerMehdi from Cary, NC

The plastic disc which sprays the jet has snapped off. This is the disk with swirl pattern on the back face.

1) Removed the two white clips from the left and righ hand side of the top tray roller rail. this allows the tray to be completely removed and ease access to the washer assembly. The clipe looks like the letter "k", so you will need to close the "k" to almost straight line in order to get it through the hole.

2) Put a sheet or a towel at the bottom of the machine, just incase you drop the two small cross head screws. This prevents the screws from falling to the bottom of the machine.

3) Remove the screws. At this time the washer assembly will/should slip out very easily. very little force is required to pull the assmbely out.

4) Slip on the new washer assembly and put the screws back in place. Tighten screws, Be careful not over tighten the screw as you may crack the plastic flange.

Note: My machine is an older model, so the washer assembly had two screw fixing. The new assembly only had one hole. Although one fixing appeared to be sufficient, I decided to drill a hole on the other side and this worked fine.

5) Replace the top tray, taking some care to ensure rollers are correctly located within the rails. Then replace the clips and job's complete.

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