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★★★★★
★★★★★
Mary S - September 19, 2021
Verified Purchase
Worth the cost!!
We're So Happy that our old washer is working again & better than ever. This was the part required to fix our washer that wouldn't spin any more. We replaced the coupler & the clutch without any change. We were deciding between spending the $200 plus on this gear case or buying a new washer. So thrilled we chose the repair part!!! Follow the repair video; it is pretty darn easy to do. Thank You Part Select.
★★★★★
★★★★★
DIRK M - May 8, 2019
Verified Purchase
Easy repair
Easy to install, fit perfect
★★★★★
★★★★★
Leanne S - March 10, 2019
Verified Purchase
Gear case repairs
Fast shipping and the part worked great right out of the box. We had a running washing machine within a half hour of installing the new gear case. Thanks!
★★★★★
★★★★★
Carrol R - September 27, 2018
Verified Purchase
very easy repair
very good service, fast shipping, part fit with no problems, made spanner wrench from 5/8 x 4 x 10 inch flat iron to remove nut in tub. worked well.
★★★★★
★★★★★
Alan B - September 11, 2018
Verified Purchase
Kenmore Gear case
Part was shipped fast. Video instructions from the PartSelect website made this and other repairs easy and do-able for a DIY repairman!
★★★★★
★★★★★
Bob B - May 18, 2018
Verified Purchase
Worked as expected.
Part appeared as new. Installed with few prproblems. Though wife says it is noisier than before.
★★★★★
★★★★★
Robert D - May 18, 2018
Verified Purchase
Washing Machine Transmission Repair - Sounds Scary but was a piece of Cake.
Sounds like a big scary job, but it wasn't. The part(s) came fast and had everything I needed. The Video walks the mechanic (you) through the whole process. It couldn't have been easier, or less expensive.
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Customer Repair Stories
Average Repair Rating: 2.2 / 5.0, 6 reviews.
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The washer would drain, but was screaming while doing nothing else.
The tough part was replacing the front cabinet. I did consult the video for help on replacing the clutch spring. Thank you for that bit.
I admit to taking too much apart, most of the cabinet back can be left alone. Some of the plastic wire keepers/routers suffered, as well as the console hinges.
The ne
... Read morewly reassembled washer works without a hitch, and truely it took me about 4 hours over several days to dissamble and reassemble. It is louder in the audible range than before, but very serviceale for another 20 years, saints willing.
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Richard from JAMESTOWN, PA
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
More than 2 hours
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The spin gear was striped.
I had to take the motor and transmission out. They are one piece. Removed the clutch, take off trans. cover, remove a snap ring, take the striped gear off, and put the new one on. Then put put everything back on the way it came off.
Aaron from Lake Mills, WI
Difficulty Level:
A Bit Difficult
Total Repair Time:
1- 2 hours
Tools:
Pliers, Socket set
21 of 27 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
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Tub wouldn't turn, but motor would allow it to drain.
I took the two screws for the control panel out and tilted it up and back. Then remove the two metal clips which held the outer panel to the back panel. After disconnecting the power and water I tipped the washer on its back. I had to remove two clips to take the water pump off of the motor, then removed the two screws and clips which he
... Read moreld in the motor. After removing the motor, I found the coupler was bad. To remove the gearcase, I took out the softener dispenser and removed one bolt to take out the agitator. Under the agitator was a clip. Three bolts held the gearcase to the frame. After removing them, the gearcase pulled straight out the bottom. Replacement was just a reverse process, with the addition of a light coat of grease to the gearcase shaft.
Drum and agitator did not turn and machine squealed.
As best described in the clutch DIYs, removed the enclosure, unclipped the water pump, motor and elec. harness to check the coupling. The bushing separated from the plastic fingers which caused the squealing. Checked the gearbox and it turned for a limited amount before jamming. Ordered new gearcase and clutch (since it was over 10 yrs
... Read more. old.), and a coupling. (Gearcase comes with half a coupling, so check if req'd for motor shaft.) For ease of removing and re-installing the motor it is best the machine lays on its back. This way the grommets and coupling can be easily aligned on the face-plate without having to manually support the weight of the motor. In the tub, unsnap two agitator caps. The inner one has no tabs to break so pry and pull on the "ears". Use 7/16" socket wrench with extension to unscrew the bolt holding agitator to gear shaft end. Assuming the motor and face-plate are still off, unscrew the three screws holding the gearcase in place and slide it out. Before installing the new clutch onto the new gear shaft, slide the plastic thrust spacer? (in kit but not shown in any instructions) down the shaft, observing which is the correct side. Check for correct clutch spring, as per instructions. Slide clutch, open side up, down the shaft. Instal wire retainer (this can be tricky) and circlip. if the brake assembly slid down while sliding out the gear shaft, squeeze its spring with a pipe wrench and push it back up (with rubber mallet). The clutch kit comes with a plastic pawl? which mounts under the brake and mates with the clutch. If the locating pins for the old part are broken off, drill them out of their holes so the new part fits snug. Insert the gear shaft up the brake sleeve into the agitator so their splines mate. Screw gear case to its mounts, agitator to shaft end (not too tight here) and snap on caps. Screw on face-plate, replace coupling on motor shaft (if req'd.), set motor on face-plate, aligning the coupling and checking the grommets fit in their holes. Instal motor holding clips (with screws), mount water pump with its holding clips, and wire harnesses. Stand up machine and replace enclosure, back panel and hoses. Replacing the gearcase was easy. Because of space limitations, removing and replacing the enclosure, etc. was a b**** that took most of my time. And watch the lid doesn't fall on your fingers!
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
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Some of the teeth on the gears within the gear case stripped. And also, some of the agitator clutch parts were warped (they were plastic).
I'm not the one who actually did the repair, so I can't give you a blow-by-blow description. But my friend did the actual repair (I found and ordered the parts from your web site).
There was one almost insurmountable problem, however. The three-pin cog that connects the new gear case to the rest of the washing machine was cha
... Read morenged.......the cross-section of each of the cogs was not round.....but teardrop shaped. I ordered the correct gear case, based upon the model number of the machine, but apparently somewhere down the years Whilrlpool must have changed the cog profile design.
So, the man who did the repair simply got out a metal mill file and filed down each of the cogs so that they were round. It wasn't perfect, but it worked.
Frist I disconnected the water lines and power cord. Then I leaned the washer back against the wall. Removed the 2 pump retainers and then the pump. Next removed the 2 screws from the motor retainers and pulled off the retainers and motor. Then removed the 3 bolts from the Gear case. Then removed the cap from the top of the agitator with
... Read morea flat screw driver. Then removed the bolt from the top of the gear shaft. and removed the auger and agitator assembly. Then removed the gear case from the washer. Next removed the slip ring and then the clutch from the top of the gear case. Next removed the 1/4" screws from cover of gear case and removed the cover. Found the top gear bad. Ordered the new gear and pinion kit. Couldn't find any part #'s to match what PartSelect had. Ordered the gear that they should that fit most washers. The pics they had up looked the same as the one that was bad. Had the new gear in 3 days put it back together and it still wouldn't work right. Took it apart again and looked at it and found a small clip on the bottom side of the gear was upside down. Fliped it over put the gear back in and ran the washer with the gear case out and it worked. Put it back together again. And learned a good lesson always watch how you take things apart for when it's time to put it back together!
Read less
david from Monroe, MI
Difficulty Level:
Very Difficult
Total Repair Time:
More than 2 hours
Tools:
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
49 of 52 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
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24 questions answered by our experts.
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Tracy
November 8, 2017
The machine stopped spinning and makes loud buzzing/grinding noise. I took the transmission apart and noticed the bottom metal gear (Whirlpool 3946631) has uneven wear, with one section of the teeth greatly worn down, some looking broken. I imagine the damaged gear won't allow enough torque to spin the basket and this is the problem. If Whirlpool gear 3946631 is no longer available, it seems i'll have to purchase the entire Whirlpool 3360629 transmission. Correct? Thank you so much. Any help/advice is greatly appreciated! Cheers
For model number gsq9364hq0
Hi Tracy,
Thank you for your question. Unfortunately yes you would have to buy your whole transmission to get that part. Good luck with your repair.
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Dave
November 26, 2018
My Maytag washer drains but won't go to spin cycle. It also leaked oil on the floor. What do i need to look for before ordering parts.
For model number MVWC300VW1
Hi Dave, thank you for your question. There are a couple of parts that you may want to take a look at. It sounds like it may be your gearcase that is the issue, but you could also check to make sure your lid switch is working and that your clutch and direct drive are alright as well. I hope that helps. Good luck with your repair.
The agitation cycle was making a grinding noise. The pump and spin cycles work properly. The agitator and cogs were replaced though they did not appear to be worn. The clutch and braked assemblies appear fine. The transmission works properly when activated with a reversible drill. When put into each cycle without a load everything appears to work properly. The transmission was opened and examined for wear and broken or worn gears and debris in the oil. There was no apparent evidence of these conditions. When a load is added to the assembled washing machine the agitator is the only cycle that does not function properly.The best i can figure is that there is something in the transmission that is not working properly when a load is placed on it.
what are your thoughts?
For model number LSQ9659PWO
Hello Norman, thank you for your question. From your description of the issue, and all the parts you've replaced or checked it does sound like the gear case is the culprit. I hope this helps!
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Daniel
April 17, 2018
The washing machine makes a loud banging noise when it goes from agitate to spin or if you stop the machine during the spin cycle and restart it spinning. What do you think?
For model number LSQ9544KQ0
Hello Daniel, thank you for your question. If you're having a loud banging noise when the unit goes from agitate to spin, or if you stop the appliance during as spin cycle the most likely issue is with the Drive Block - 2 5/16" High PartSelect Number: PS11741977 and the Clutch Assembly PartSelect Number: PS334641. I would suggest replacing these two parts. I hope this helps!
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Chris
January 29, 2018
Machine was making a terrible grinding noise mid cycle, it allowed me to drain the water while still making that grinding noise (i'll take a half pound!), the agitator seemed to be working, (replaced the cogs a couple years ago), it did not spin while draining. I've disassembled down to the gearcase, seems like its leaked a little grease. The couplings look ok, clutch is in one piece, is there a way to look in the gearcase and get that "ah-ha" moment, to find the smoking gun? Although from what i've read here, it sounds like its the trans... thank you for any help, i love your website, you guys have helped me out a lot!
For model number LSR7333PQ0
Hi Chris,
Thank you for your question. If your hearing a grinding noise mid-cycle, the gearcase may be causing the issue, but it could be the bearing as well. You did mention the coupler. The drive coupler is splined on the inside to match the transmission and splined on the outside to match the agitator. If your washer is making a grinding noise during the wash cycle and the agitator turns freely then the drive coupling may be damaged. Remove the agitator by pulling it straight up. Use caution as the fit is usually tight and force may be required to release the bond. With the agitator removed you can then unthread the bolt that secures the coupling to the transmission shaft and remove the coupling. I hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day!
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Nathan
August 25, 2021
Washer stopped spinning and agitating. I replaced the motor coupling which was broken. Reinstalled motor. It spun and agitated after but sounded rough and moved slow. After a few moments I heard a loud metal sounding pop. Not the washer won't drain, spin or agitate. I am not sure what part to look at replacing to fix.
For model number LSR9434PQ4
Hello Nathan, Thank you for the question. We suggest checking the Clutch Assembly for damage. It could have worn with the damaged coupling and also need to be replaced. We hope this helps!
My washer has a melt to it
I open the cover and i have oil leaking from the center spin drum
Thanks
curtis
For model number 1TE52430Q4
Hello, Thank you for your question. Looking at your model- Part #: PS341974 is the gearcase. We hope this helps.
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David
February 26, 2020
Sears Kenmore series 80 washer.... washer would not complete spin cycle without help. replaced clutch assembly and motor coupling as suggested in other comments due to the same symptoms, even though they didn't show signs of wear. washer seems to work in all other stages except when it comes to spinning. under light loads seems to work okay,not sure if it actually gets to full speed, and under larger loads i need to assist the basket to initiate the spin and it slowly increases speed to complete the spin cycle. how can i tell if its the transmission or the drive basket? if it is the transmission, is there a repair kit for this model? if not, is this the replacement transmission ps341974 (gear case) for this model.btw, when it does initiate the spin cycle there is a slight grinding sound, but i'm not sure if it is natural this way or not. thanks,
For model number 110-26834691
Hi David,
Thank you for your question. To verify if the issue is caused by either the gearcase/transmission or the basket, you will need to take the washer apart and look for signs of damage or wear. Part number PS341974 is listed under you model number. You should also check the lid switch, the agitator directional cogs and the pump. We hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day.
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Owen
July 12, 2021
Washing machine tub stopped spinning and would not drain. There was a slight burning smell. There was a whining noise when put on spin cycle but no movement. I drained the tub and took the washing machine apart. motor works, direct drive coupler still in tact. I cannot turn the tub by hand, how do I confirm that is the transmission before purchasing?
For model number LTE5243DQ6
Hello Owen, Thank you for the question. To verify if the issue is caused by either the gearcase/transmission, you will need to take the washer apart and look for signs of damage or wear, however if most cases if the tub will not spin by hand, the Gearcase needs to be replaced. We hope this helps!
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Joey
June 12, 2023
My old Maytag washer does not appear to be agitating or spinning. However, it does drain. I believe the transmission/gear case is the problem. The number on my transmission is FSP 389228. I don’t see in your list where your part #3360629 replaces my 389228 transmission. Is your 3360629 transmission a replacement for my 389228 transmission? Thank you.
BTW, your video on transmission replacement is very well done.
Joey
For model number MVWC6ESWW1
Hi Joey, thank you for reaching out. Yes, this gearcase, part number PS341974, replaces your gearcase having manufacturer part number 389228. We hope this helps!
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