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PartSelect Number PS334646
This part could have either a blue colored valve body or a green colored valve body. There are two ports for water to enter and this valve is compatible with a half inch ID hose. It has two 3/4-11x1/2 NHT hose threads.
This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
I'm a 61 year old single woman, rather handy around the house. I followed the video which was very helpful and everything went together fine until it came to putting the body of the machine back on. I did the repairs all myself which took about an hour but when it came to the machine body I couldn't get it back on there after numerous tries. I had to call my brother and it took him just one try but then he is 6'2" and could look down the little hole to see where the tab was to put it on and hold the body at the same time. BTW - he did inspect my work before finishing the job and said I "did good!" Thanks for the video but could have used some hints as to how to put the body on with some close ups as to what he was doing with his hands when he did it.
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Rmoved top, removed back, replaced valve.
Take top of washing machine off. Turn spikets off and remove hot and cold inlet hoses. Remove one screw holding part in place. Reach from front and take valve out. Unplug wiring harnesses. Reinstall the same way I took it off.
I found the helpful video, after a bit of a struggle removing rear panel from machine!! I determined the problem of being the water inlet valve from prior troubles on a machine. I removed the screws from bottom of rear panel,then the Phillips screws from the back of control panel. bumping the control panel towards the front of the machine dislodges it from it's slots. the control then tilts back on plastic hinges, exposing the clips that hold on the rear panel.Those clips are pried up and removed. dis connect the wire harness to control panel. A similar screw as the first removed at bottom hold the inlet valve on the panel.. two simple wire terminals are pulled off as well as a small water line. I did not remove the entire cabinet front as shown in the video as space did not permit it. Still easily reached. the reverse was done to install. The machines are heavy, do get help there.I did not have it. Be certain to shut off water supply before beginning. Also, I forgot to reconnect the wire harness to control panel. you wont,RIGHT.
To Whom It May Concern:I had issues with my washer not flowing cold water very efficiently.I was convinced I was going to have to spend at least $200 to getsomeone to fix it or buy a new unit. My friend showed me your siteand videos. I quickly found the part I needed, had full confidencethat my problem would be solved with that part and that I'd be able todo it myself. I ordered the part yesterday, got it today, andinstalled it in under 15 minutes (thanks to the excellent video).What an amazing customer experience!!This is the greatest buying process I've every had with an Internetpurchase....hands down!! You saved me a couple hundred bucks and madeit fun and easy for me to fix myself. You guys are the best. Nodoubt about it.Thank you so much, Jason
As I tore my ACL, my wife actually did the actual repair while I talked her through it. The video on your website was such a great help. Our repair went exactly as depicted.
I followed the instructional video that referenced the water inlet valve. The steps I followed were identical to the video I watched. That was extremely helpful. The hardest part was removing the terminal wires that connected to the inlet valve, the rest was very easy. With the new valve installed the washer works exactly as it did before. This site is very helpful, thank you!
Loosing back cover to reach in and remove valve
I wish I could be more specific, but I had a bit of trouble getting the back off the washer. I removed the control panel on the top of the machine and that allowed me to get to the two clips that secured the back onto the unit. The I removed additional screws on the back until I was able to pull the back away from the frame on the side where the valve was installed. after loosening the screws that held the valve to the back panel I was able to reach in and pull it out of the side. Once that was done, the rest was a breeze. I clipped the hose on the original valve and re-attached it to the new part. Then it was just a matter of reassembling and that went much, much faster than the disassembling. I reattached the water lines, plugged in the washer and it worked like a charm. I was very pleased with the whole thing. Also, I paid for standard freight, but received the part the following day after placing the order. Sweet.
First - I saw the picture of the part on your site. It made all the difference.Then, I turned off the water supply, unplugged the washer, removed the screws holding the backing plate on the washing machine to expose the valve.After that, it was as easy as removing two mounting screws, disconnecting the solenoids (just two connections), pulling out the old valve and replacing it with the new.Pretty simple and a lot less pricey when you can wait a few days for a part to come in the mail.
removed top panel and back paneland then disconect the two wire fromm water inletfallow by removing screws.disconect water hose then put back new part make sure i have all same conected as original put back panel top and backconected hose for water back and electric .then i turned 0n cold water perfect work hot water perfect warm perfect. problem fixed.thanks. pedro
I just followed the instructions from a previous customer. Worked perfectly.
I removed the faulty valve after unplugging the AC cord. Two screws, the two water hoses were removed, and the electrical connections were unplugged. The old valve could then be rotated so that the clamp on the fill tube could be loosened and the tube pulled off the valve.The new valve body seemed to be an exact replacement, but the mounting bracked was slightly different and required drilling two new screw-mounting holes; an easy job. Before securing the mounting plate to the machine, the fill tube and clamp were reattached, and the electrical connectors plugged in. After connecting the supply hoses and plugging in the AC cord, the machine filled with water properly and everything seemed to be back to normal. I might have been able to use the original mounting plate, but it had been taken to a different location which was too far away to easily retrieve.
Opened back panel and replaced valve - very easy
I diagnosed by reversing the plugs on the hot/cold valves. I then removed the valve , cleaned it up and sprayed the electrical contacts with (Corrosion Block) and re-assembled. It still only had hot water. Ordered part, received part next day. When I went to install it I discovered that the (Corrosion Block) had penatrated and all was working! So now I have a spare valve.
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