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PartSelect Number PS334646
This part could have either a blue colored valve body or a green colored valve body. There are two ports for water to enter and this valve is compatible with a half inch ID hose. It has two 3/4-11x1/2 NHT hose threads.
This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
Removed two screws holding top control section on, and folded back the control panel. Removed two clips holding cabinet on, tipped cabinet toward me and off. Removed and replaced water valve, being careful to mark hot/cold hoses, and secure the internal hose to the valve with the spring clamp. Most difficult part was lining back up the cabinet when putting it back on the base, but a few minutes to line up tabs and get the front of the cabinet UNDER the front groove in the base got it secure. Works fine now.
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1. Unplug washer, close hot and cold water supplies and remove water hoses from washer inlet valve.2. Remove two screws at the bottom of the front of the control panel.3 Remove two screws at the top of the back side of the control panel.4. Remove control panel.5. Remove two retainer clips that hold the back panel to the top of the cabinet by prying them out from the front with a large screwdriver. (Probably the most difficult part of the job.)6. Use a socket or nut driver to remove the two screws that hold the valve to the back panel.7. Lift the cabinet from the bottom rear and tilt the cabinet forward until you can access the valve.8. Remove the wire harnesses from the hot and cold valves taking note of the wire orientation. (The red one will go back on the hot valve.)9. Use pliers to open the hose retainer clip and slid the clip out of the way and remove the hose from the valve. 10. Reverse the process and you are done!
Initially, we thought the problem was in the water inlet valve and we changed it out. It went OK although the Kenmore almost fell apart after the removal of a few screws and the control unit. Only thing was that it was unncessary. The real problem was not in the cold water turn on valve, but in the hose. The hose was special in that it was designed to shut off under emergency conditions. It appeared to be able to passs water when tested at my sink, but when connected to the washing machine and under presssure, it would not pass water. I had installed the part by this time so I left it there. I found the Kenmore washing machine rather flimsy in it's construction and tended to totally come apart once a few screws were removed.
I followed the video instructions to the tee. Took more time to move the machine out and put back than to replace the inlet valve.
Removed top control panel, removed inlet mount hardware, removed both electrical connectors, removed filler hose, Installed new inlet valve in reverse order. Works fine !
The hot water hose was frozen to the hot water bibb and it took me a while to cut it loose with my Dremel tool. Removed the cabinet and replaced the water inlet valve easily, then hooked up new hot and cold water hoses. Reinstalling the cabinet was a little tricky getting it lined up correctly. Checked for leaks then tested the washing machine and it ran great with the water filling the machine much faster with the new Water Inlet Valve. I will definitely replace the washing machine hot and cold water hoses every 5 years from now on.
Followed by installation on line
1- Unplugged washer. 2- Turned off water supply to hoses hot and cold. (marked hoses H C) 3- Unscrewed hoses to washer. 4-Used phillips head screw driver to take out screws(2) at corners of washer. 5- Slid top of washer forward and lifted top off. 6- Took out retaining clips on each side of washer. 7- Slid frame of washer outward exposing rear panel of washer for access to water inlet valve. 8- Used 1/4" drive to take out screw to inlet valve. 9- Removed inlet valve, unplugged the two connectors and removed clamp from hose to valve. 10- Replaced new inlet valve and reversed the process to assemble washer back together. Total time for repair, about 45 minutes. I now have full running cold water to washer. Thanks guys for the video you provided. Would purchase again if needed. Thanks again!!! Water Inlet Valve with Mounting Bracket Part Number: PS334646
Unplugged the power while the washer was running, and the water kept on running. The water inlet valve was stuck open. I removed the inlet valve and you cold blow air thru it, it should be closed with no power applied.Ordered replacement from this site it was a perfect fit. As far as the removal and installation procedure, just follow the video as presented on this site. Good Look.
I had to call in to find the correct part because the online recommended part looked very different, and the one found using the model number had no photo, so I was VERY leary of ordering. The service rep said that Kenmore products did not always show up correctly and he gave me the part number needed and there was a photo. The part was not exactly the same, but looked very similar and it was more than 50% less than the original recommended part and part with no photo. I thought that the problem finding Kenmore parts was odd since Kenmore is like number one, right? Part took 3 days to arrive, which I thought was great. Turned off power and water. Removed water hoses. Removed three screws from the back of the top (front loader). Removed the top. Removed a screw holding on the water inlet valve from the outside of the unit through the back cover which required a star driver. Unattached the 4 electrical leads. Unattached the outlet water hose (held on with a squeeze type metal clamp -not sure of the exact name for these). The problem that I had was that the water outlet hose bib attachment was slightly larger than the old one, so the hose would go back on, but the clamp was too small so I cusses a lot before figuring out the problem. I had to go and purchase a new larger clamp. After that, I simply attached the electrical connections and put the outlet back on. One other small problem was that the place where the screw through the back cover was originally attached no longer lined up with the new valve. The plastic piece was shorter than the old one so the screw hole did not line up with the hole in the back panel. The screw isn't really necessary. Overall, replacing the part was easy and I was pleased with the process.
unscrewed the back removd thr two screws for the element unhooked the hose to machiine unpluged the electric to element and than replaced new element and plugged electric to element and hooked back the hose and replaced screws too the back and replaced back an screws titled wash machine up hooked hoses for the water and plugged electric and put drain hose back to drain done
This should have been done under 30 minutes but when you don't have a repair manual, you have to do some guessing. I have to remove the back panel. On only thing that was hard was unspringing the two flat springs. After I got the panel off, the rest was easy and the dripping stopped. Oh, there is a screen where the hose connects to the inlet valve. If you can clean the screen often, you can continue to get a good water flow.
Removed two clips on back panel holding control panel.Removed end plates on control panel. removed two front screws holding control panel. removed wiring harnesses noting location. Set control panel aside. Removed two large clips holding rear panel to washer cabinet. Pulled washer cabinet from the front away from the rear panel and tube. Removed two screws holding water inlet valve. Removed water inlet hose from inlet valve using channel lock pliers. Installed new water inlet valve using supplied mounting bracket. Reassembled washer in reverse order.
Simple repair. Unplugged power cord, turned off water spigots. Removed the two screws under the control panel and rotated it up and back out of the way. Popped the two retaining clips (that's much easier now that I know to simply stick a large screwdriver straight down vertically into the front portion of the clip and lean the screwdriver back, rather than try to pry the clip out by levering under it against the washer top) holding the main body panel to the front of the washer and tilted it forward but not all the way off. That allowed plenty of room to get at the back panel where the valve assembly is. There is some sort of plastic tray over the top of the valves that's kinda in the way so I popped it out by squeezing its plastic retaining barb with needle nose pliers and forcing it back thru the metal panel. Two screws hold the valve assembly on, and of course the water supply hoses are on one side and the fill hoses on the other. Removed and placed them on the new valve in orderThe replacement part comes with a mounting plate and is not an exact duplicate. I screwed the assembly to the plate, but the holes in the plate don't line up perfectly enough to allow a second screw to be used. I could have drilled in a new one if I was willing to move the washer even farther out but a single screw holds it plenty well enough for me. Be sure to attach the correct electrical connectors and water lines to the new valves.Reassemble in reverse order BUT TAKE CARE NOT TO PINCH THE CLEAR PLASTIC TUBE that runs from the water level switch down behind the control panel when you rotate the control panel back into position. I watched my washer fill almost to overflowing before realizing something was wrong. After 2-3 unsuccessful examinations I finally realized the tube was caught between two panels of metal and the controls were not recieving the "I'm full" signal from the wash tub. That would have been a mess if I hadn't watched a wash cycle to double-check my work.My washer sounds brand new and fills faster. $30 shipped and an hour of work.
Turn off water, unplug machineDisconnect water lines to the valveUnscrewed the clear plastic tabs on the top of the machine, then pryed the back away from the top white part.Two gold clips can be popped out with a long flat head screw driver.Pulled the back away from the machine enough to disconnect the wires from the valve. Unscrew the screw(s) from the valves.Old valves out, new valves in. Plug in the wires, screw in the screws.Then, to get the gold tabs back in place.....i called NASA.just kidding. They're tough!I slipped one into the back and held it in place with my thumb. Then I lined the piece up with the slot inside the machine. Then, i pryed the top white part away as I pushed them together. Stuck a long handle screwdriver down in and pushed REALLY hard on the gold tab to get it to snap into place. Everything is really tight, so you might have to try it a few times.....i left some blood behind.repeat for the other side, snap in the clear tabs, hook up the water lines, plugged it in......Then I sat back and listened to my wife praise me for fixing her machine!
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