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PartSelect Number PS334646
This part could have either a blue colored valve body or a green colored valve body. There are two ports for water to enter and this valve is compatible with a half inch ID hose. It has two 3/4-11x1/2 NHT hose threads.
This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
I removed the faulty valve after unplugging the AC cord. Two screws, the two water hoses were removed, and the electrical connections were unplugged. The old valve could then be rotated so that the clamp on the fill tube could be loosened and the tube pulled off the valve.The new valve body seemed to be an exact replacement, but the mounting bracked was slightly different and required drilling two new screw-mounting holes; an easy job. Before securing the mounting plate to the machine, the fill tube and clamp were reattached, and the electrical connectors plugged in. After connecting the supply hoses and plugging in the AC cord, the machine filled with water properly and everything seemed to be back to normal. I might have been able to use the original mounting plate, but it had been taken to a different location which was too far away to easily retrieve.
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Opened back panel and replaced valve - very easy
I diagnosed by reversing the plugs on the hot/cold valves. I then removed the valve , cleaned it up and sprayed the electrical contacts with (Corrosion Block) and re-assembled. It still only had hot water. Ordered part, received part next day. When I went to install it I discovered that the (Corrosion Block) had penatrated and all was working! So now I have a spare valve.
Opening the washing machine, and removal and replacement of the water inlet valve were both trivially easy. However, getting the cabinet back into place was a bit tricky, only because I did it by myself. It was surprising how flexible and flippy-floppy the cabinet became when free of the structure of the machine. It would have been a huge help to have had a buddy over to just help place the back corners of the cabinet into place. That would have made the whole job totally easy.
My son did the repair. Thank God for Sons who know how to repair things. Worst thing was figuring out how to get the back off, top where dials are had to come off too. the rest was easy according to him..
removed the two screw that hold the inlet valve take hose of .the first was takeing the back of than the hoses from back hose on bottom of machine.
Unplugged the washer and pulled out from wall as far as hoses would permit. Removed and drained both supply hoses. Removed drain hose and drained. Any water left in the tub will drain here so it's best to make sure it's drained prior to repair. Used pliers to hold the hose clamp and removed. Took screws out of drain hose interface plate and pulled out far enough to disconnect it from the internal hose.Removed the two front screws of the control console. removed the two top hinge screws on the back. Removed four screws at the bottom of the rear access panel. Had to lift unclip several clamps holding the level hose in the control console and a cable connector. Unclipped various clips in the back panel to free it from wire bundle and such. Lifted the back panel up off of the clips located at the rear base of the control panel.Removed two screws to free the solenoid assembly from the back panel. Unplugged the connectors to the original solenoid assembly. Disconnected the internal hose from it. Installed screw and plate supplied with the replacement solenoid to configure it with the same orientation as the original. Connected the internal hose and electrical connectors. Reassembled the back in reverse order as diassembled.
First I unplugged the washing machine and turned off the inlet water faucets. I prepared my tools, spead a drop cloth, and had ready a towel and small bucket to catch water from the hoses. I pulled the washer away from the wall and removed the screw holding the ground wire. I disconnected the inlet hoses and the drain hose from the wall and put the loose ends in the washer tub. Then I completly turned the washer around for easy access. I removed the inlet hoses and the drain hose using the bucket to catch the little water that was still in the hoses. I removed 2 screws holding the top control panel to the back place and removed the 3 screws at the bottom of the back plate. I also removed the two screws holding the control panel to the top of the washer. The water inlet valve is located on the left side looking at the rear about half way up. I was able to move the left panel of the washer out of the way an inch or so, and pull the left side of the rear panel away a few inches so I could stick my hand in and unhook the cold and hot wire cables. I memorized which went into which slot. Then I unscrewed the water inlet valve and pulled it out the opening to the back and using a pair of pliers I loosed the water clamp and removed the rubber inlet hose. A small amount of water came out which I was able to catch in my small pail.The water inlet valve comes with a separate mounting plate. I attached the mounting plate with one of the screws provided. The screws are identical except one has a flat slot and the other has a special star slot. I reattached the rubber inlet hose using the pliers to hold the clamp then positioned the water inlet valve back in place on the back panel. I put a screw in to hold it and reattached the wires for the hot and cold control. Then I tightened the screws.I repositioned the panels and put the lower screws holding the back panel to the washer back in loosely. I positioned the control panel back on the top of the washer and reattached the two screws on the back and then the two screws holding the front of the control panel to the top of the washer. Then I reattached the inlet hoses and draine hose.I used this opportunity with the washer away from the wall to clean the floor and wall behind it. After cleaning under the washer, I moved the dryer over and cleaned under the dryer and made sure the dryer hose was still connected.I put the dryer back, and repositioined the washer half way back into the opening. The I reattached the ground wire to the back of the dryer and attached the hoses to the wall. Then I pushed the washer back into place. Using a level I rechecked the level of the washer. I turned the water back on and ran a small load of wash to test. It worked fine.
i removed all screws for back of washer and removed top washer controls. then removed the valves and replaced with new one. reinstalled back in reverse order.really easy job. you just have to pay attention how you took it apart and study how it works , thanks!
With the help of reading about other individuals and their problem, I was able to replace the water inlet valve in less than 30 minutes. Unscrewed two screws on top to reveal the flat springs. Popped the springs and released the back of the washer. Removed the old part and replaced with new. A lot easier than I thought.
On this particular washer you have to remove the top part of the machine. Where your controls are at, ie: water temp, water level, etc. It takes removing a few screws. Than you have to remove the back of the machine. Unhook the washer hoses going into your machine. This is where your part is on the inside of the back. Remove the back by a few sliding hooks. Unhook the electrial plugins going into the mixer (value inlet). There will be other plugins you have to unplug up around the water level, water temp areas (on top of the machine). Remove the old water inlet value, replace it with the new. Replace all plugin electrical parts and put the back back on. Put top back on, screw in the screws and try your new machine. NOTE: When it comes to these electrical plugins its not that hard. They are are different, they can only go in one way. My wires were all tied together so each plug was at that particular plugin length. Ex: The last plugin was the longest. Pretty easy to know where it go. The other ones were shorter. In other words it was pretty easy to know where they went after unplugging. So don't be scared to try this. There is one wire that is screwed into the metal for a ground wire. Just make sure you do get this back in for your safety. It's the only one that could be over looked. I am a female and I watched and helped my loving father take this machine apart. After this I put this part in myself. I was amazed that my machine was like new again. I agreed to tell my story because by others telling there story is what helped me. It saved me from buying a new machine. When I seen the stories on this particular problem I was ready to take the chance. I had already spent way more than that at the laundry mat. Thank you again and best wishes to you all.
The PartSelect DIY video made this repair so incredibly easy that even my not-super-handy husband and I were able to do it in about 15 minutes. (And I mostly watched because it doesn't require two people at all.) Every single step that was possibly needed was explained. We actually got the repair right on the first try -- no cussing, no bickering, nothing but a working washing machine in a quarter of an hour. In our book, DIY doesn't get any easier than this. We'll definitely be back for any parts our other old appliances need, and we won't be afraid to try future repairs ourselves. Saved a bundle!
The installation of the Water Inlet Valve itself was a breeze. However, removing the back panel of the machine was what took so much time. It looks like a few screws and off it comes, right? NOT SO!! There are various clips and two brass hangers that are a real pain to get to. My advice is to contact Whirlpool and get instructions on removing the back panel before you start. PS: the machine works great! Thanks for the service.
followed the video and was as simple as could be.
Unpluged washer and turn off water supply to washer.Used channel locks to take hoses off back of washer.Then unscrew to screws in top panel and then flip it back. Take screw driver and pop out the two clips and unplug lid switch. Now you can pull off front section of your washer. Use your socket to remove the two nuts on back panel and unpluged the hot and cold plugs.Use channel locks to pull back of hose clamp. You may need to put mounting plate on the back of the inlet valve. Put back in reverse order. Good Luck Mark N. of North Port FL
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