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PartSelect Number PS334641
A worn clutch can cause a slower spin speed which will leave your clothes wet after a cycle.
This clutch assembly comes with brake cam driver, blue spring for large capacity washers and black spring for compact washers. As per factory, the green spring (1.24") replaces the black spring (1.46").
This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
EXACTLY as per instruction. Only trouble was getting cabinet re- installed properly. Bottom tangs were deformed and not catching. First rate parts and instruction! Thanks for making it possible. KL Lowery
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Replaced the clutch, works like a dream...easy to install & the best part was..that I had the part within 2days standard mail..thanks parts select!!from Missouri
Following this websites directions, I removed the body and agitator, layed the machine down, removed the pump, motor and gearcase and replaced the clutch assembly. I reinstalled everything but the problem was not fixed. I have since taken the machine apart again, this time taking the gearcase itself apart and found a broken part in there (the small screw from the nuetral drain assembly kit part#PS349777). I can not find the screw seperately, so I have ordered the rebuild kit and will try that when it comes in.
It suprised me how much water came out of the machine when I tipped the machine on it's back. I needed a short pan or bowl to catch the water. The hardest part was installing that c-shaped spring.
The hardest part was figuring out what the problem was. The washer wouldn't spin so the clothes were really wet at the end of the cycle. First I removed the agitator, because a screw connects the agitator to the shaft.Next I put the washer on it's front.Disconnected the water pump clips and pulled it off the motor shaft.Electrically disconnected the motor (make sure you unplug the washer before starting)Removed 3 bolts holding the gear case and motor.Then I pulled the gear case and motor out the bottom, the shaft is about two feet long and the clutch comes with it.Replace the clutch and put the shaft back where it belongs. Make sure the clutch spring doesn't bump against the plastic brake thing, it will stop you from pushing the shaft all the way in. Pushing the gear case and motor assy the last inch and aligning the holes for the bolts was the hardest part. The bolts aren't long enough to grab the threaded hole, so you have to get it perfectly aligned. After about a half-hour of fighting it, I finally used a hammer and lightly tapped it into place. Just put everything back together in the reverse order.
Actually a pretty easy repair.Unbolted the agitator assembly. Turned the washer on its side, unbolted the motor assemblyremoved it and easily replaced the clutch and drive coupler. The coupler was not worn but I figured I'd just do it while I had it apart.
removed the bolt inside the agitator, flip machine remove the three bolts holding the transmission to the machine, remove the drive assemblie from machine.Replaced clutch, pump and motor coupling at the same time.reassemble drive unit into washer, job done.washer is happy, wife is happy and i'm back to my couch !!!!!!!
removed agitator bolt from trans shaftturned wachine on its backremoved 3 trans bolts-wires from clip-2 hosesremoved motor & trans from machineremoved locks that hold clutch changed clutchre assembled
my son did the repair
As best described in the clutch DIYs, removed the enclosure, unclipped the water pump, motor and elec. harness to check the coupling. The bushing separated from the plastic fingers which caused the squealing. Checked the gearbox and it turned for a limited amount before jamming. Ordered new gearcase and clutch (since it was over 10 yrs. old.), and a coupling. (Gearcase comes with half a coupling, so check if req'd for motor shaft.)For ease of removing and re-installing the motor it is best the machine lays on its back. This way the grommets and coupling can be easily aligned on the face-plate without having to manually support the weight of the motor. In the tub, unsnap two agitator caps. The inner one has no tabs to break so pry and pull on the "ears". Use 7/16" socket wrench with extension to unscrew the bolt holding agitator to gear shaft end. Assuming the motor and face-plate are still off, unscrew the three screws holding the gearcase in place and slide it out. Before installing the new clutch onto the new gear shaft, slide the plastic thrust spacer? (in kit but not shown in any instructions) down the shaft, observing which is the correct side. Check for correct clutch spring, as per instructions. Slide clutch, open side up, down the shaft. Instal wire retainer (this can be tricky) and circlip. if the brake assembly slid down while sliding out the gear shaft, squeeze its spring with a pipe wrench and push it back up (with rubber mallet). The clutch kit comes with a plastic pawl? which mounts under the brake and mates with the clutch. If the locating pins for the old part are broken off, drill them out of their holes so the new part fits snug. Insert the gear shaft up the brake sleeve into the agitator so their splines mate. Screw gear case to its mounts, agitator to shaft end (not too tight here) and snap on caps. Screw on face-plate, replace coupling on motor shaft (if req'd.), set motor on face-plate, aligning the coupling and checking the grommets fit in their holes. Instal motor holding clips (with screws), mount water pump with its holding clips, and wire harnesses. Stand up machine and replace enclosure, back panel and hoses.Replacing the gearcase was easy. Because of space limitations, removing and replacing the enclosure, etc. was a b**** that took most of my time. And watch the lid doesn't fall on your fingers!
Disconnect electrical, took out agttator, tipped machine againest the wall. On hooked the two hoses on pump, removed three bolts pulled complete assembley out removed worn parts and installed new parts and reassembled. Works like new,
First confirmed it wasn't the lid switch by jumping. Then confirmed by taking off washer cover that the transmission was leaking and spraying oil as evidenced by yellow oil film on the inside of the washer cover. The leaking oil caused the clutch assembly to slip and wear. Replaced both the clutch assembly and the transmission upper two seals.To repair, after taking the washer cover off removed the agitator holding screw. Then remove two clips holding water pump. Unconnect the motor wires and remove two clips holding motor in place. Tilte washer back leaning up on a chair and remove 3 bolts holding transmission assy in place. Slid out the transmission/ shaft from machine.I rebuilt the transmission by separating the case on bench and replacing two seals. To do this you first need to remove clutch assembly from the trans agitator shaft. The clutch is held on by a washer and two spring clips. You need to take note of the orientation of the parts for proper reassembly. The difficult part was separating the cover of the transmission from the base . After removal of the cover screws using a putty knife and hammer I gently tapped all around to separate the halves. The I replaced the two upper seals, one one the cover and one in the output shaft. The second difficult part that requires some skill is removing the seal from the transmission cover. I used a hair dryer to heat up the aluminum cover to ease removal of the seal. After replacement of the seals I resealed the cover onto the base using automotive silicone gasket maker. Note; I kept the transmission level during this repair so that I did not need to drain oil. After keeping the transmission level and allowing 24 hours for the silicon to cure I assembled the new clutch assembly and clips in reverse order on transmission shaft. Then reassembled the transmission, motor and pump in reverse order. Ran machine with full load of towels. Spin problem fixed and transmission is still leak free a week later.
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