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PartSelect Number PS334641
A clutch assembly is found in your washing machine and is responsible for spinning the basket during the spin cycle. A worn-down clutch can lead to a slower spin which can lead to the machine not draining properly, leaving your clothes wet after a cycle. If you notice a burning smell, or the machine shaking and moving more than normal, this could indicate the need to replace your clutch. This clutch assembly comes with a brake cam driver, blue springs for large capacity washers, and a black spring for compact washers. As per the factory, the green spring (1.24 inches) replaces the black spring (1.46 inches). This repair requires a half inch 1/16th socket with an extension and a ratchet, a pair of channel lock pliers, a Phillips screwdriver, medium size flat blade, a small flat blade, and a 1/4 inch nut driver.
This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
diconnected water supply and discharge, unplugged the unit, removed the aggitator, laid the washer on it's back, romoved the hoses from the pump, took out 3 bolts, removed the motor/transmission and replaced the clutch and put it all back together.
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After reading other repair stories I did it like they said. I disconnected all the hoses and drained as much water as I could. The top came apart easily with a regular screwdriver, a 1/2 in drive with extension, and a 14 or 15mm deep socket. The spanner nut came off easiest with several short, quick blows (punch and hammer, counterclockwise). In my case a good wack seemed to be soaked up by the wash tub springs. Be careful not to chip the tub. I laid the washer, front down, onto a couple a 2x6's. I supported between the tub and body with small 2x4 scraps. The motor/trans/pump came off easily after disconnection the 2 hoses (towels handy) and wiring. After the 3 screws, and some wiggling, the assembly slid out nicely. The coupler came out after snapping the springs off to remove the pump and motor. A 1/4 nut driver and regular screwdriver assisted. Watch how the pump comes off. You might want to mark its orientation with a marker or something. Make sure you get the new coupler on all the way with some taps on the CENTER where the shaft is. Reassemble in the reverse order. You'll know why I suggested marking the water pump. Watch the order/orientation of the springs, clips, and washer. The clips came off with a screwdriver and pliers. It's always nice to have a rag on them when removing, they like to shoot off and land in the spot that's hardest to find, like under the dryer. My clutch was assembled with the right spring and slid right on. Don't forget about the plastic washer, snap it in good. The plastic piece still on the washer was simple. I opened up a nose pliers and put it on each side of the clip then gave it a hit. It came off with minimal effort and didn't spin on the shaft like pushing on one side with a screwdriver. During reassembly I put a very light film of grease on the shaft. That washer with the tabs gave me trouble at first. I put a good film of grease on the side with the tabs to hold it in place, with the tabs down, in the clip. Otherwise when sliding the assembly back together it comes loose and you won't get the motor/trans all the way in. Then it all has to come back out and you'll wonder what the heck is keeping the transmission from seating in all the way. You might even get it all together, figuring the motor or tub has to turn to get it to seat right. You may even try running a no clothes load and get stuck with a tub full of water. Ask me how I know.Reverse everything to reassemble. Make sure you get the springs tight that hold the hoses on. I was worried about over tightening the plastic nut with a 1/2 drive. Run no-clothes load, large, hot with soap. I think tipping it over loosened some stuff that was stuck in between the tub and basket. No, it wasn't grease from the shaft, light film. Anyway, I'll waste a washer full of hot soapy water to avoid the, "Um..what's this on my new shirt". I didn't mean for this to be so long winded, but I was leary about tackling this job at first. I know my way around the garage/cars, but never tried appliances before. I pictured it'd be apart for weeks and I'd have to call a repair man. Then the "I told you so" look would come. You all know what I mean. I just want to cover as much as possible and encourage others while having them avoid any troubles.
First read up on what others did and tried to find free repair manual with little luck. Called repairman, they thought whole transmission was shot- would have been $70 just to have them look- forget it. Getting it apart: popped off the two console cosmetic panels to get to a screw on each side from the top. Lifted off console, levered and squeezed retaining clips. Unhooked two connectors and overflow tubing? Shell pulled off easily, getting back on after I was all done made me wonder if it was a good choice. In the end yes- allowed me to clean inside surfaces of both tubs to remove grime and rust. There are many stories on the actual clutch replacement, so won't go into too much detail but some lessons learned. Keep track of the way all the plastic aggitator pieces go in, plus the washers and clips along the way. Deep well 1/2" I think socket for the tub, it's litely spring loaded so look before you set it down. Punching off the nut on the tub worried me, but it was no big deal. Loosens and tightens the normal directions, no positive tight stop, just compression so pay attention to how tight and hard you pounded to get it off. Drain the water from the inner tub before getting too far. I took the four springs off and removed both tubs to clean. No more complaining about brown spots on clothes. Get the whole clutch kit, not just the band, even though it's probably just the band worn out. The plastic clutch engaging piece will probably be fatigued. The motor etc is heavy, and buffered it's drop with rags. tip on side when putting it back, because its a bear to try to lift up. I lightly greased some moving parts, just not much as to not cause band grip problems. The wire retaining clip is tricky- I put the hook end in first, used pliers to try and compress, and screwdriver to push down and in. The whole things wants to spin while you do this, but when it finally goes, it stays. I was concerned about the location of the band spring in relation to it's actuator when putting it together, but it turned out if you put it anywhere where the clutch is free to spin, it will engage normally. The top lid has two rubber bumpers, one fell off and landed on the front bottom corner of the cover which didn't help reinstallaion until my 8year old noticed it! Took a number of tries but finally got the four guides from the frame into the cover. I tried bringing it in level, front tipped sligthly up, front tipped slightly down; in the end I won't be much help, it just finally went. It wasn't as easy as most people said it would be, but my back hurt and I had kids "help", and it took just under two hours. Works amazingly well now. Parts arrived Two days after ordering, with no expiditing!
Remove metal cover; remove pump, remove motor, remove tub spin assembly; remove transmission. Remove clutch be removing retaining ring. Installation was reverse. No problems, part worked like champ.Note: Called Sears to see if I could get the part locally. Turns our I had to call an 800 number. Lady said that the part was not carried and would have to be shipped from warehouse. Tried to sell me some discharge hoses. Then said the part would cost $65 before S&H. Told her I didn't want to spend that much, she asked how much I wanted to spend and seemed upset when I told her your price. She didn't comp it, just said that theirs was an official part from Sears, blah, blah, blah. Anyway, thanks for the great service!
1. Removed back panel.2. Removed Entire control paned, control and switch units disconnecting wiring assembly from motor. 3 Tilted front and side panel assembly away from frame, tub assembly and motor transmission assembly.4.Removed cap from top of agitator, removed bolt holding agitator. Removed agitator, this part was tricky since some corrosion on shaft made agitator very difficult to pull off. 4. From bottom of unit disconnected motor/transmission unit from wash tub. 5. Located clutch assembly and removed lock washers. Removed clutch and replaced with new one.------------------------------------------------------------Steps 1 thru 3 were unnecessary.All that needed to be done was to removed the agitator assembly. then turn unit on it's side or back and removed motor and transmission from the bottom.
The video was well made and made repair easy. I like the fact the video also showed how everything went back. The most difficult part and most time consuming for me was putting the washer cabinet or housing back on. I had a hard time lining the sides onto the slot to lock in place....the minor cut on finger sustained during the process was worth it. It saved me from buying a new washer and the whole family are happy that they don't have to wring out the clothes before putting it the dryer. Thank you!
Based on all the other info here, I thought "ah-ha! I need to replace the clutch assembly". So I ordered the part, it came the next day (to Vermont, even!) and started to disassemble the agitator, motor, etc. just as shown in the video. I don't think I would have attempted it if it had not been for the video. It made the process seem very straightforward and easy, as long as you are comfortable using a socket set.That said, there were some fairly minor differences between my machine and the one in the video, so your repair might differ a little. First of all, I did not need one of those spanners / tub wrenches (whatever they called it in the video-- the thing he hit with the sledge hammer) to take off that nut under the agitator. I didn't need to remove it, and the drive axle just pulled right out. Second, you really don't need to remove the motor mount. Just take the motor off, and then go right to removing the three bolts on the transmission. Actually, my problem turned out to be NOT the clutch assembly, but the little plastic gear things that go between the motor and the transmission, fitting into that rubber ring thing. I lifted the motor off and one of them was sitting there in pieces! You can easily order this part, and it's even easier to install than the clutch assembly. The plastic pieces are reinforced with metal now, which seems like a good idea.All in all, this was a fun little project, and now I am under the (probably false) impression that I can repair any problem with washing machines!
Same as described on your video. Very simple
The washer agitated ok, so I figured it wasn't the motor or agitator. Watching the repair videos, I assumed the clutch might be the culprit. The videos are very good, so I should have taken the machine apart and actually looked at the clutch - it wasn't too bad. Trying to put the new clutch on anyway, I noticed it didn't turn on level. I thought it wasn't seated correct, but it was then I realized the shaft was tilting. This would explain the THUMP, and the grinding must be a gear inside the transmission. As much as I hate to get a new machine, given the tremendous downturn in quality, I think that because this machine is old, it is not worth a $200 transmission. Anyone need a brand new (but test fitted so not returnable) clutch?
I took the washer apart with the help of your video and Also used the assembly instructions to install the new parts. Everything fit well and went together very easily. Washer works great now.
Watched your video and it was right on so helpful it made my job easy.
Each part has a very good video about the procedure to fix the problem , just follow it and you will be good .
Your installation videos are the best thing ever!!! Anyone who is mechanically savvy can repair anything following your instructions. Thank you SO much. I watched the video a couple of times, took some notes, and replaced the clutch. Problem solved. So, thank you for carrying a multitude of parts, quick shipping, and for the videos. I can repair almost anything, but your services make it time and cost effective in an era where the mantra is discard and replace.
I installed both a new clutch and direct drive assembly, put it all back together, turned it on and had the same initial problem. I purchased and installed a new gearcase (transmission) and it runs like a new machine. I also purchased a spanner wrench made by Supco, but never had to use it. Will save it for future repairs. There is no greater satisfaction or glory than fixing something yourself! A lot cheaper too!!!
I watched the how to video and it was very helpful. I followed all the steps as described although I did not take the cabinet off , I just laid the unit down on the back with a couple towels behind it. the only thing that was a little bit hard was hooking the back clamp on the pump. If you hook the back clamp before putting the pump back on it is much easier.
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