334641-1-S-Whirlpool-285785            -Clutch Assembly
334641-1-S-Whirlpool-285785            -Clutch Assembly 334641-2-S-Whirlpool-285785            -Clutch Assembly 334641-3-S-Whirlpool-285785            -Clutch Assembly http://www.partselect.com/Schematics/Maytag/Maytag_Thumb/G3DQDMEU.gif

Clutch Assembly

PartSelect Number PS334641

A worn clutch can cause a slower spin speed which will leave your clothes wet after a cycle. This clutch assembly comes with brake cam driver, blue spring for large capacity washers and black spring for compact washers. As per factory, the green spring (1.24") replaces the black spring (1.46").

This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.

This part fixes the following symptoms:

  • Pumps but will not spin.
  • Spins slowly.
  • Will not agitate.
  • Noisy.
  • Burning smell.
  • Will not drain.
  • Compare At

    $26.96
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    $4.49
  • Your Price

    $22.47
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Videos For installing this part.

Related Parts Additional or alternate parts to consider.

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DISCONTINUED

Part Number 2021976

$26.97
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Installation Instructions Provided by PartSelect customers like you.

Average Repair Rating: 2.8 / 5.0, 48 reviews What's this?
 

26 of 28 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used

Level of DifficultyReally Easy

Time to do repair:30 - 60 mins

ToolsNutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set

CustomerMichael from Schuylkill Haen, PA

Washer would drain, agitate but not spin and was very noisy and would vibrate heavily

I first watched the youTube vidio on yhe PartSelect web site. After getting a visual of the repair, I decided to tackle the job with a better understanding and knew the repair was easy to purform. First I took the two screws out of the contrl panel on top of the washer, rolled the panel back to expose the clips that hold the metal cabinet to the back panel of the washer. After removing the cabinet I was ready to lay the washer on it's back and had a clear view of the pump, motor and clutch... I was able to easly identify these parts because I took time to watch the video. Using a flat head screwdriver I removed the clips that hold the pump to the motor... Without disconnecting the hoses connected to the pump I pushed the pump to the side and out of the way. This further exposed the motor. Using the flat head screwdriver, I removed the clips holding the motor to the transmission (they just snap off like they did on the pump). The motor was now ready to be removed from the transmission ( it just lifts off) before removing it I disconnected the power suply wire from the motor... Now the motor can be completely removed. I identified the drive couupler 1/2 was on the motor shaft the other 1/2 was on the transmission shaft.. On both halfs the splines were broken. I removed the old broken drive coupler. Since I already had the machine so far apart i figured i would replace the clutch also. Using a deep socket ratchet wit an extention I removed the agator... I then unbolted the transmission (only three bolts) I gentely pulled the transmission and shaft out of the bottom of the washer. This exposed the clutc assembly, I removed the clutc ( which wasn't bad or wore by the way) and replaced it.... I figured I had it and I was this far into the repair why not. After relpasingvthe clutch, I slid the shaft and transmission back into place tightened the bolts and that was done. I then slid/replaced the drive coupler... Placing one half on the motor shaft the other on the transmission shaft, placed the rubber bushing on the oneside of the plastic drive coupler. And mounted the motor back on the transmission utilizing the clips I took off earlier. Once the motor was in place I installed the waterpump fastened by the clips. Flipped yhe washer up, replaced the cabinet... Tightened down the the control panel and was ready to do some wash..: the washer runs perfect now and I saved myself about $700.00. It was allot easier than I thought it would be... Watching the youTube video is the secret to success. The washer is running like the day I bought it new... All for only 53.00. Hats off to everyone at PartsSelect for going above and beyond. Regards, ~ Michael

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21 of 30 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used

Level of DifficultyDifficult

Time to do repair:More than 2 hours

ToolsPliers, Screw drivers, Socket set

CustomerBryant from Jacksonville, FL

Leak from the front, bottom edge

First I watched the vid, from this website that showed how to replace a pump on the Whirlpool model I have. It was very helpful. Then, on the same web page as the vid for washer pump replacement several DIYers describe how they did the repair and rate how difficult it was. This also was very helpful. The info from these two sources confirmed to me that it was the pump that was leaking. Tilting the washer back far enough so I could see the pump also visually confirmed it was the pump.
If the pump had come off easily I would not have had to take the cabinet off. All I would have had to do was lay the washer on its' back to get the pump off. But noooo, the pump was rusted so tightly to the motors' shaft that I had to be more aggressive, to remove the pump, than the measures mentioned in the vid.
After finally getting the pump off I saw that the end of the motors' shaft had corroded and was misshapened enough so that I had to "persuade" the new pump onto the shaft.
I also ordered these parts (1. Direct Drive Coupling 2. Agitator Repair Kit and 3. Clutch Assembly) after I read in the DIYers descriptions that many of them, who changed their pump, also changed these parts. Since my washer was 15 yrs old it made sense to replace these parts which usually wear out before the pump.
Unfortunately, after I got everything reassembled the new pump leaked more than the old one. Guess I over-"persuaded" the new pump onto the shaft. That, and I don't think the new pump is as well built as the original so it couldn't take much persuasion.
Now I either: 1. buy a new pump and motor or 2. buy a new washer which is what I'll most likely do.
If I had a do-over I would only get the pump. If it worked properly with no leaks, then I would buy the other 3 parts, if it didn't work, I would only be out $40 instead of the $95 I'm out for the 4 items. Being frugal or, as my family says, "cheap," I do have to be careful. There is a point where repairing something old is more a point of pride than good sense. I don't know where that point is and I definitely wouldn't have brought this up if the new pump had fixed the washer.
Also, after struggling for quite some time to put the cabinet back on, I Googled "how do I get a Whirlpool washer cabinet back on?" After watching one of the vids Google answered back-I was able to put the cabinet back on in less than 10 minutes.
I hope this has been helpful. Happy DIYing!

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20 of 32 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used

  • Clutch Assembly

Level of DifficultyEasy

Time to do repair:1- 2 hours

ToolsPliers, Screw drivers, Socket set

Customerfloyd from Slidell, LA

Would not spin

Remove the nut from the top of the motor shift inside of wsher. then remove the wire harness plug. Take out three bolts side the shaft and motor out. Replace clutch and install in reverse order.

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14 of 15 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used

Level of DifficultyReally Easy

Time to do repair:30 - 60 mins

ToolsNutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set

CustomerANTHONY from NY, NY

In the spin cycle, drum would'nt spin unless assisted

First off unplug the machine then turned off H/C water supply and removed hoses, laid the machine on its side, removed 3 motor supp. bolts, loosened drum pulled out shaft and clutch assembly was right there. Also replaced coupling while it was apart. And to think, a svce company wanted 179.00 just to walk in my door and diagnose the pblm. Then, parts and labor were extra. Thanks for the help/advice, piece of cake!!!!!!!

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14 of 16 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used

Level of DifficultyA Bit Difficult

Time to do repair:More than 2 hours

ToolsNutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set

CustomerGerry from Tenino, WA

Washing machine not spin drying

Please note that there is a very though instruction video under, PS 334641 clutch assembly, which deals with this subject. I removed the three bolts holding the motor and transmission onto the center post and the screw holding the agitator to the center drive shaft. I also removed the wiring harness to the motor. I then pulled the motor and transmission out the bottom of the machine. I found that that there was a white nylon drive part, which was broken, that connected the transmission to the center agitator shaft, through the brake mechanism. That's why the machine didn't spin dry. The brake mechanism was full of transmission oil, which might have caused or contributed to the problem. When I looked for the PS334641 clutch assembly, which contained the part I needed, I found the video that showed me how to remove the part properly. The part wasn't that hard to change, but I also decided to change the gear case cover seal PS340984, because of the oil leak. That's a bit tricky if you haven't changed a seal before, but an automotive shop could probably change it for you if your transmission was leaking. I wasn't able to remove the out side covering of the machine, but there was enough room to work from the bottom. Following the video, the rest went well, but I should have changed the rubber motor drive part that connects the motor and the transmission, since it was pretty worn. Next time.

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