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PartSelect Number PS334641
A worn clutch can cause a slower spin speed which will leave your clothes wet after a cycle.
This clutch assembly comes with brake cam driver, blue spring for large capacity washers and black spring for compact washers. As per factory, the green spring (1.24") replaces the black spring (1.46").
This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
!. Removed agitator from inside2.Removed outside cabinet3 Removed pump, motor, and transmission.4. Slid the entire drive unit out of the tub from the bottom5. Removed the clutch assy. and installed new.6. Reverseed the procedure to re-assemble.
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After reading other repair stories I did it like they said. I disconnected all the hoses and drained as much water as I could. The top came apart easily with a regular screwdriver, a 1/2 in drive with extension, and a 14 or 15mm deep socket. The spanner nut came off easiest with several short, quick blows (punch and hammer, counterclockwise). In my case a good wack seemed to be soaked up by the wash tub springs. Be careful not to chip the tub. I laid the washer, front down, onto a couple a 2x6's. I supported between the tub and body with small 2x4 scraps. The motor/trans/pump came off easily after disconnection the 2 hoses (towels handy) and wiring. After the 3 screws, and some wiggling, the assembly slid out nicely. The coupler came out after snapping the springs off to remove the pump and motor. A 1/4 nut driver and regular screwdriver assisted. Watch how the pump comes off. You might want to mark its orientation with a marker or something. Make sure you get the new coupler on all the way with some taps on the CENTER where the shaft is. Reassemble in the reverse order. You'll know why I suggested marking the water pump. Watch the order/orientation of the springs, clips, and washer. The clips came off with a screwdriver and pliers. It's always nice to have a rag on them when removing, they like to shoot off and land in the spot that's hardest to find, like under the dryer. My clutch was assembled with the right spring and slid right on. Don't forget about the plastic washer, snap it in good. The plastic piece still on the washer was simple. I opened up a nose pliers and put it on each side of the clip then gave it a hit. It came off with minimal effort and didn't spin on the shaft like pushing on one side with a screwdriver. During reassembly I put a very light film of grease on the shaft. That washer with the tabs gave me trouble at first. I put a good film of grease on the side with the tabs to hold it in place, with the tabs down, in the clip. Otherwise when sliding the assembly back together it comes loose and you won't get the motor/trans all the way in. Then it all has to come back out and you'll wonder what the heck is keeping the transmission from seating in all the way. You might even get it all together, figuring the motor or tub has to turn to get it to seat right. You may even try running a no clothes load and get stuck with a tub full of water. Ask me how I know.Reverse everything to reassemble. Make sure you get the springs tight that hold the hoses on. I was worried about over tightening the plastic nut with a 1/2 drive. Run no-clothes load, large, hot with soap. I think tipping it over loosened some stuff that was stuck in between the tub and basket. No, it wasn't grease from the shaft, light film. Anyway, I'll waste a washer full of hot soapy water to avoid the, "Um..what's this on my new shirt". I didn't mean for this to be so long winded, but I was leary about tackling this job at first. I know my way around the garage/cars, but never tried appliances before. I pictured it'd be apart for weeks and I'd have to call a repair man. Then the "I told you so" look would come. You all know what I mean. I just want to cover as much as possible and encourage others while having them avoid any troubles.
Remove metal cover; remove pump, remove motor, remove tub spin assembly; remove transmission. Remove clutch be removing retaining ring. Installation was reverse. No problems, part worked like champ.Note: Called Sears to see if I could get the part locally. Turns our I had to call an 800 number. Lady said that the part was not carried and would have to be shipped from warehouse. Tried to sell me some discharge hoses. Then said the part would cost $65 before S&H. Told her I didn't want to spend that much, she asked how much I wanted to spend and seemed upset when I told her your price. She didn't comp it, just said that theirs was an official part from Sears, blah, blah, blah. Anyway, thanks for the great service!
First read up on what others did and tried to find free repair manual with little luck. Called repairman, they thought whole transmission was shot- would have been $70 just to have them look- forget it. Getting it apart: popped off the two console cosmetic panels to get to a screw on each side from the top. Lifted off console, levered and squeezed retaining clips. Unhooked two connectors and overflow tubing? Shell pulled off easily, getting back on after I was all done made me wonder if it was a good choice. In the end yes- allowed me to clean inside surfaces of both tubs to remove grime and rust. There are many stories on the actual clutch replacement, so won't go into too much detail but some lessons learned. Keep track of the way all the plastic aggitator pieces go in, plus the washers and clips along the way. Deep well 1/2" I think socket for the tub, it's litely spring loaded so look before you set it down. Punching off the nut on the tub worried me, but it was no big deal. Loosens and tightens the normal directions, no positive tight stop, just compression so pay attention to how tight and hard you pounded to get it off. Drain the water from the inner tub before getting too far. I took the four springs off and removed both tubs to clean. No more complaining about brown spots on clothes. Get the whole clutch kit, not just the band, even though it's probably just the band worn out. The plastic clutch engaging piece will probably be fatigued. The motor etc is heavy, and buffered it's drop with rags. tip on side when putting it back, because its a bear to try to lift up. I lightly greased some moving parts, just not much as to not cause band grip problems. The wire retaining clip is tricky- I put the hook end in first, used pliers to try and compress, and screwdriver to push down and in. The whole things wants to spin while you do this, but when it finally goes, it stays. I was concerned about the location of the band spring in relation to it's actuator when putting it together, but it turned out if you put it anywhere where the clutch is free to spin, it will engage normally. The top lid has two rubber bumpers, one fell off and landed on the front bottom corner of the cover which didn't help reinstallaion until my 8year old noticed it! Took a number of tries but finally got the four guides from the frame into the cover. I tried bringing it in level, front tipped sligthly up, front tipped slightly down; in the end I won't be much help, it just finally went. It wasn't as easy as most people said it would be, but my back hurt and I had kids "help", and it took just under two hours. Works amazingly well now. Parts arrived Two days after ordering, with no expiditing!
1. Removed back panel.2. Removed Entire control paned, control and switch units disconnecting wiring assembly from motor. 3 Tilted front and side panel assembly away from frame, tub assembly and motor transmission assembly.4.Removed cap from top of agitator, removed bolt holding agitator. Removed agitator, this part was tricky since some corrosion on shaft made agitator very difficult to pull off. 4. From bottom of unit disconnected motor/transmission unit from wash tub. 5. Located clutch assembly and removed lock washers. Removed clutch and replaced with new one.------------------------------------------------------------Steps 1 thru 3 were unnecessary.All that needed to be done was to removed the agitator assembly. then turn unit on it's side or back and removed motor and transmission from the bottom.
The video was well made and made repair easy. I like the fact the video also showed how everything went back. The most difficult part and most time consuming for me was putting the washer cabinet or housing back on. I had a hard time lining the sides onto the slot to lock in place....the minor cut on finger sustained during the process was worth it. It saved me from buying a new washer and the whole family are happy that they don't have to wring out the clothes before putting it the dryer. Thank you!
Based on all the other info here, I thought "ah-ha! I need to replace the clutch assembly". So I ordered the part, it came the next day (to Vermont, even!) and started to disassemble the agitator, motor, etc. just as shown in the video. I don't think I would have attempted it if it had not been for the video. It made the process seem very straightforward and easy, as long as you are comfortable using a socket set.That said, there were some fairly minor differences between my machine and the one in the video, so your repair might differ a little. First of all, I did not need one of those spanners / tub wrenches (whatever they called it in the video-- the thing he hit with the sledge hammer) to take off that nut under the agitator. I didn't need to remove it, and the drive axle just pulled right out. Second, you really don't need to remove the motor mount. Just take the motor off, and then go right to removing the three bolts on the transmission. Actually, my problem turned out to be NOT the clutch assembly, but the little plastic gear things that go between the motor and the transmission, fitting into that rubber ring thing. I lifted the motor off and one of them was sitting there in pieces! You can easily order this part, and it's even easier to install than the clutch assembly. The plastic pieces are reinforced with metal now, which seems like a good idea.All in all, this was a fun little project, and now I am under the (probably false) impression that I can repair any problem with washing machines!
removed the old clutch assembly. Then replaced with the new clutch assembly and it works great.
Removed bolt from agitator assembly. Pulled up on the agitator vane and removed it. tipped over macvhine . Drained water from tub via the drain hose assemble and removed clips from the hoses to the pump atached to the motor and drained residual water from the lines. Removed the electrical connector attached to the motor assembly and the three bolts holding the motor assembly and shaft to the tub and slid the shaft and assembry out.. Took digital photo of the assembly to insure proper part replacement and removed the clips and spring that are part of the assembly that holds on the clutch. Removed the old assembly and installed the new assembly . Installed the spring and retaining clip that came with the kit and installed the shaft . Installed the three bolts holding the/motor assembly and shaft in place and reconnected the hoses to the pump assembly and reconnected the electrical connector. Uprighted the washer and everything worked like new when I tested the spin cycle. I was quoted $225 to fix the bad clutch from the appliance tech that I paid $20 to diagnose the problem . Saved about $175 by doing it my self and it wasn't hard to do. My thanks to the previous persons that had done the repair and left iinstructions on how to do it. SW Santa Clarita Ca.
Removed the agitator. Then removed the nut holding the agitator shaft. I set the machine on its side. Working from the bottom, i removed the three bolts which hold the transmission/motor. I removed the wiring. Pulling the unit down and out of the shaft bearing. The clutch assembly is on the transmission/motor unit shaft. Remove the snap ring and retaining ring for the shaft. Replace the clutch unit in the reverse order. The hardest part to replace is the retaining ring on the shaft. Pay close attention on how everything comes apart and you won't have any problems. Saved myself a lot of money.
I took the outside case off. took the bolt out of agitator, removed agitator, took motor out with ease of 2 scres and clamps, pulled trannny out and slidd clutch off and put new clutch on. replaced coupling while it was apart with new and better one for 12 bucks. put back together and works like new.......piece of cake........
Remove top of aggitator, remove bolt 7/16 socket that holds aggitator to shaft. Pull aggitator out of machine. Tip machine on it's side. Remove 2 hoses connected to pump at end of motor. Remove 3 bolts holding gear box to tub frame (1/2" socket).Pull motor and gear box out from under machine. Note where washers, snap rings are on the shaft. Remove snap rings , slide clutch off shaft. Replace clutch , put back together.
I washed the Youtube videos from Partselect website and read the comments from others which provided significant help in approaching the repair. However, I didn't follow the video precisely. There is no need to remove the control panel nor the front housing. All you need to do is tip the washer on it's back, remove the nut from the agitator & remove the agitator assembly (careful, there is a plastic piece and a clip that goes over the shaft, remove that too), remove the pump, remove the bolts for the motor housing and remove the entire motor/shaft assembly. Now you can replace the clutch and direct drive motor coupling, etc. My problem was with the clutch, but for an extra $13, I replaced the direct drive motor coupling as well. My first time took me about a hour, but could do it again in less than 30 minutes. Outstanding help/support provided by the Partselect website. All were very happy the washer was fixed and I we probably saved a few hundred dollars by doing it myself.
Very easy repair. Removed the Cabinet-two screws. Removed the Agitator-one Bolt. Removed the Water Pump and Motor-4 clips. Un bolted the Transmission Assembly-3 bolts. Pulled out the transmission and drive shaft as a whole and then removed and replaced the old clutch. Reassembled useing a new drive coupling because why not! I'm in there so getherdun! So easy and the Appliance guys wanted between 200-300 bucks for this simple repair.
Watch the video. Remove agitator. Disconnect power and water supplies. Lay machine on its back. Unclip and move pump out of the way. Remove three bolts securing motor assy. Slide motor assy and agitator shaft away from tub. Remove a washer and c-clip to slide clutch assy off of shaft. Install new clutch and reassemble machine. Total time to repair is about 30 minutes.
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