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PartSelect Number PS334600
This part makes sure that the lid is shut before allowing the machine to start or agitate.
This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
I've worked in maintenance for almost 4o years, but working on this Roper machine was a lesson in humility. Knowing that most motors have a start switch, and the motor must turn the pump, which has been a problem on other appliances that I have repaired, I decided to proceed to look at the motor first. With no manual or schematic I proceeded with caution and my future son-in-laws assistance. Removing a few screws at the back of the appliance allowed us to peek into the cabinet to see that the motor had no belt, but was a direct drive unit. The pump was located in the front of the machine near where your feet would be. Access was impossible from the rear. Wires and wire harness were attached to the back panel like levers and ropes in a sophisticated snare trap, one thing holding two other things in a web. After removing all the "stuff", we still could not remove the external cabinet from the frame, which hopefully would allow us a better view of the pump and motor. As we discovered to more bastard screws holding the outer cabinet on the frame we were able to remove the shell, with just a weeee bit of blood letting. The edges of the sheet metal are very sharp! So the screws were removed and the shell fell off the front like wiggling jello falls to the floor, but with a lot more noise. Uncovering the misplaced pump allowed us to prove that there were no obstuctions in the pump or lines. The motor switch checked good with the ohm meter, so that directed us to the other control circuit components. One of those components is the lid switch. The switch tested open, when activated. This was a easy replacement after we had field stripped the machine to discover that all the work on the cabinet was unnecessary, the switch could have been replaced through the top around the tub. So having a good manual, could have saved us lots of work. But who needs it when you have all the time in the world, yeh right!
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Popped the cap off, removed the inner cap, removed the 11mm bolt then removed the unit. The unit I purchased was too tall(my fault for not measuring) but the dog ears fit into the old unit just fine, after all that was really all that was wrong with the ols one
Unplug power cord. Remove two screws at bottom front corners of control panel. Flip control panel up. Unplug switsh connector where it comes up through top of waser.Use large screwdriver to unlatch two spring clips from washer top. pull washer cabinet forward and lay on floor. Remove two screws from switch. Use plyers to remove spring clips holding wire jacket along edge of body. unclip wire connector from lid. replace new switch and clips. stand washer cabinet up and reinstall spring clips to connect cabinet and back. Plug in switch connector. replace control panel and two screws.
I am a 26 year old female with no history of appliance repair. I used youtube videos and how-to websites to learn how to disassemble my machine. (unplug from wall, remove two screws, two brackets, unplug & unscrew old lid switch.) The white case easily removes and you can see how the lid switch is attached and put the new one in its place. reattach all plugs and screws. I saved near 100$ by doing this myself and it wasn't difficult.
Sure enough, the problem was the Lid Switch Assembly. The repair is easy enough. Hardest part, like others have said, is taking apart the washer. There actually is no "frame". Just a base at the bottom, back panel, and shell with lid attached.Biggest "gotcha" I had was I mistakenly removed two screws from the bottom of the back panel. This caused the back to come off of the base which was a headache to get back on. Also, the wiring harness connector was different from what the washer used. But this was easily fixed by splicing the old connector to the new assembly.
I remove two screws from the right and left side from the front of electronics cover. Then lifted the cover and tilted it back on its hinges to reveal the timer and to keep it out of the way. I unplugged the connector located in the center at the back of the top cover of the machine. This is the connector for the lid switch. I removed the fount and side covers of the machine. They are attached together. I tilted the top and sides forward to and slide forward to remove them together. (Sides, fount and top come off together.) I found it easier to lay fount panel down on the floor to remove switch. I removed two screws holding the switch from underneath the lid cover. Look for the hole that the plunger goes through on the right side of the lid. I removed connector that was located in the middle of the top of the machine by pushing in on the side of the connector and sliding out of its slot. ( notice how the connector is facing in the slot) Remove ground wire from screw. Remove wires from under clips. Reverse to install switch.
Removed lid to rear control panel. Disconnected plug going to it from assembly switch. Openned lid to washing machine and guided my hand from beginning to end to understand where i was going to work. There was a small screw i had to take out and had to be very careful not to let it drop inside the washer (kind of difficult). Once out placing it in was ok. The hard part was screwing the small screw again.
Received new lid switch in two days. Great service.Pulled power plug and removed screws, on back of machine, and tilted shell forward far enough to remove the old lid switch. Two screws on switch, two clips, ground wire, and wire harness plug. Entire replacement took less than 30 minutes.
the safety switch on the lid was broken,ordered a replacement from parts select.I was expecting it 3-5 buss days it was delivered in 2 days.changed the switch using the attached directions,washer is working fine,I was surprised at the quick delivery
I first removed the damaged switch remains. Installed the new lid switch in it's place. Cut and stripped the two wires about 6 inches from the switch, on both old and new. And slipped on the shrink tubing and soldered the control wires to the new switch wires,heated the shrink tubing, slipped the hard plasic covering over the connections and secured the wiring back in place. It seemed to me that this method was easier and quicker than hooking up the plug. Less work involved to achieve the same result. . . Wife says the washer now works just perfectly. ------Also I might add that the delivery via ups was extremly quick. Thank you.
Got on-line to look for Whirlpool parts using model number and serial number of washing machine. Located the part and ordered it. Received in 2 days. After reading the comments of how others replaced the same part I was able to do the repair.
Power ok,motor not work
The instructions were clear and easy to follow. I removed the 2 screws on the top panel. I pivoted it back revealing 2 clips. Use a screw driver and release the clips. Remove the clips and pull the front case forward. Unplug and remove the old part and replace with the new part. Reverse the procedure and use your washing machine that now works. The damaged part was easy to remove and the new part was easy to attach. Works perfectly now.
disconnected from powerpulled unit clear of wallremoved 2 screws behind lid holding control top to outside coveringtilted back control assemblyused screwdriver to pop out large retaining clipsworked outside covering loose from seals on back and tilted entire covering (including lid) out and awayvacuumed, cleaned and inspected used screwdriver to remove lid switch and pop harness from under 2 retaining clipsremoved ground wirereversed for installation and re-assembly
replacing the switch was easy but the plug in the switch didn't match the switch on the washer. thats where the boxcutter came in modified the plug to fit
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