Lid Switch Assembly

I've worked in maintenance for almost 4o years, but working on this Roper machine was a lesson in humility. Knowing that most motors have a start switch, and the motor must turn the pump, which has been a problem on other appliances that I have repaired, I decided to proceed to look at the motor first. With no manual or schematic I proceeded with caution and my future son-in-laws assistance.
Removing a few screws at the back of the appliance allowed us to peek into the cabinet to see that the motor had no belt, but was a direct drive unit. The pump was located in the front of the machine near where your feet would be. Access was impossible from the rear. Wires and wire harness were attached to the back panel like levers and ropes in a sophisticated snare trap, one thing holding two other things in a web. After removing all the "stuff", we still could not remove the external cabinet from the frame, which hopefully would allow us a better view of the pump and motor. As we discovered to more bastard screws holding the outer cabinet on the frame we were able to remove the shell, with just a weeee bit of blood letting. The edges of the sheet metal are very sharp! So the screws were removed and the shell fell off the front like wiggling jello falls to the floor, but with a lot more noise.
Uncovering the misplaced pump allowed us to prove that there were no obstuctions in the pump or lines. The motor switch checked good with the ohm meter, so that directed us to the other control circuit components. One of those components is the lid switch. The switch tested open, when activated. This was a easy replacement after we had field stripped the machine to discover that all the work on the cabinet was unnecessary, the switch could have been replaced through the top around the tub. So having a good manual, could have saved us lots of work. But who needs it when you have all the time in the world, yeh right!

Sure enough, the problem was the Lid Switch Assembly. The repair is easy enough. Hardest part, like others have said, is taking apart the washer. There actually is no "frame". Just a base at the bottom, back panel, and shell with lid attached.

Biggest "gotcha" I had was I mistakenly removed two screws from the bottom of the back panel. This caused the back to come off of the base which was a headache to get back on.

Also, the wiring harness connector was different from what the washer used. But this was easily fixed by splicing the old connector to the new assembly.

Had to remove cabinet to get to lid switch to replace. The most time consuming part was removing and replacing the cabinet. The rest was easy.

I am a 26 year old female with no history of appliance repair. I used youtube videos and how-to websites to learn how to disassemble my machine. (unplug from wall, remove two screws, two brackets, unplug & unscrew old lid switch.) The white case easily removes and you can see how the lid switch is attached and put the new one in its place. reattach all plugs and screws. I saved near 100$ by doing this myself and it wasn't difficult.

I remove two screws from the right and left side from the front of electronics cover. Then lifted the cover and tilted it back on its hinges to reveal the timer and to keep it out of the way. I unplugged the connector located in the center at the back of the top cover of the machine. This is the connector for the lid switch. I removed the fount and side covers of the machine. They are attached together. I tilted the top and sides forward to and slide forward to remove them together. (Sides, fount and top come off together.) I found it easier to lay fount panel down on the floor to remove switch. I removed two screws holding the switch from underneath the lid cover. Look for the hole that the plunger goes through on the right side of the lid. I removed connector that was located in the middle of the top of the machine by pushing in on the side of the connector and sliding out of its slot. ( notice how the connector is facing in the slot) Remove ground wire from screw. Remove wires from under clips. Reverse to install switch.

Removed lid to rear control panel. Disconnected plug going to it from assembly switch. Openned lid to washing machine and guided my hand from beginning to end to understand where i was going to work. There was a small screw i had to take out and had to be very careful not to let it drop inside the washer (kind of difficult). Once out placing it in was ok. The hard part was screwing the small screw again.

Received new lid switch in two days. Great service.
Pulled power plug and removed screws, on back of machine, and tilted shell forward far enough to remove the old lid switch. Two screws on switch, two clips, ground wire, and wire harness plug. Entire replacement took less than 30 minutes.

the safety switch on the lid was broken,ordered a replacement from parts select.I was expecting it 3-5 buss days it was delivered in 2 days.changed the switch using the attached directions,washer is working fine,I was surprised at the quick delivery

I FIRST REMOVED THE DAMAGED SWITCH REMAINS. INSTALLED THE NEW LID SWITCH IN IT'S PLACE. CUT AND STRIPPED THE TWO WIRES ABOUT 6 INCHES FROM THE SWITCH, ON BOTH OLD AND NEW. AND SLIPPED ON THE SHRINK TUBING AND SOLDERED THE CONTROL WIRES TO THE NEW SWITCH WIRES,HEATED THE SHRINK TUBING, SLIPPED THE HARD PLASIC COVERING OVER THE CONNECTIONS AND SECURED THE WIRING BACK IN PLACE. IT SEEMED TO ME THAT THIS METHOD WAS EASIER AND QUICKER THAN HOOKING UP THE PLUG.LESS WORK INVOLVED TO ACHIEVE THE SAME RESULT...WIFE SAYS THE WASHER NOW WORKS JUST PERFECTLY.------ALSO I MIGHT ADD THAT THE DELIVERY VIA UPS WAS EXTREMLY QUICK. THANK YOU.

Got on-line to look for Whirlpool parts using model number and serial number of washing machine. Located the part and ordered it. Received in 2 days. After reading the comments of how others replaced the same part I was able to do the repair.

Power ok,motor not work

disconnected from power
pulled unit clear of wall
removed 2 screws behind lid holding control top to outside covering
tilted back control assembly
used screwdriver to pop out large retaining clips
worked outside covering loose from seals on back and tilted entire covering (including lid) out and away
vacuumed, cleaned and inspected
used screwdriver to remove lid switch and pop harness from under 2 retaining clips
removed ground wire
reversed for installation and re-assembly

replacing the switch was easy but the plug in the switch didn't match the switch on the washer. thats where the boxcutter came in modified the plug to fit

Unscrewed switch from top then opened washer from top and back and replaced switch on top inside

First I opened up the control console by removing two screws - this allowed access to the connector at the end of the part harness. 2nd I removed the agitator so I could get my head down inside the chamber to see the clips that held the wires in place. Then I removed the part and replaced it with the new one dressing the wire through the two clips, up through the hole to the above mentioned connector. Reassembled all.