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PartSelect Number PS334387
Also known as Thermal Cut-Off kit. The thermostat acts as a safety mechanism that keeps the dryer from overheating and the fuse is like a backup system - it's set to trip at a higher temperature than the thermostat. Once it trips, it has to be replaced.
This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
This hi-limit thermostat acts as as safety mechanism that keeps the dryer from overheating. Once the dryer temperature reaches a certain point, this piece will shut down power to the heating element.
I simply removed the back of the dryer to gain access to the heating element. Once I removed the heating element I figured I would also replace the thermostat and thermal fuse as preventive maintenance.
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I asked for advise, looked around and priced heating elements and thermostats. This was the best combo offered for the price given. It was shipped and received it very quick. Installed it and 5 minutes later, she was running like a champ!
First i tested each part for continuity and found out that the thermal fuse was bad. So ordered the part and went ahead and got thermostat and element to ensure no problems in the future since I already was in there.
I replaced the thermistor earlier, but the code was still flashing. I noticed the heater terminals were charred and pretty well covered in carbon. So, I replaced the heater, the thermostat and thermal fuse and replaced the 3/8" spade terminals on the heater wires. (These are hard to find - most electrical spades terminals are .250. Also, I crimped and soldered these for a connection with the lowest resistance possible). After all that, the code still flashed! I let the explatives fly, calmed down, and ran the control board test. (This is done by pressing "more time" "less time" "more time" "less time" in succession.) The control board was passing all the tests, but the thermistor test, and the only thing is in this circuit is the thermistor, the wires, the connector to the control board, and some circuit on the control board that involves a few resistors and the "brain" chip. So, I checked the terminals at the thermistor, the wires up to the control board and the connector at the board. The control board connector was fairly dust encrusted, so I unplugged it, cleaned the control board terminals and sucked away all the lint and dust. Finally, I carefully removed earch crimp terminal from the Molex connector (the white female connector) and cleaned and bent them to yield a better connection to the terminals on the control board. I put it all back together, and thus far it is working fine.
Open breaker and ensure power was off. Checked heating components for continuity.Found thermal fuse had an open circuit.Replaced High limit thermostat and thermal fuse.Now is a good time time check for free flowing vent piping.I discovered mine was crimped below the floor and caused lint build up and obstructing the flow which could have led to the thermal fuse blowing.I replaced the vent piping as well.My wife says the dryer works better now than it ever has.
take off front bottom panel. use ohm tester on the heater coil element, (It had broken in back) remove screw holding it in place and the two red wires leading to the element. Pull out and replace. reinstall in reverse. Done
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