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PartSelect Number PS334313
This element is strung with a coiled wire made of a nickel and a chrome alloy. This wire receives, but resists, a controlled electric current and as a result, the wire heats up. The heat produced is used to dry the clothes in your dryer.
This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
I started by removing the Washer from the utility room. Then I disconnected the vent and the power supply. Put the dryer on its front, (you may want to lay a blanket down to protect the finish.) Then using a nutdriver I removed the nuts which hold the back in place. Removed and replaced the defective element. Replaced the back with the nuts. I then up-righted the dryer, moved it back into position, reconnected the vent and the power supply and tried it out. It worked!
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First I removed the back of dryer. Then I found the part I needed to replace. I unhooked wherever it needed to be and put new part in place. It was really easy to do.
UNPLUG/SECURE BREAKER FIRST!!! Removed all screws on the back, disconnected the three wires (two red, one white) from the element assembly, removed the two screws holding the asmy in. Had to remove the thermostat and swap it over to the new. Installed new asmy and reconnected the two red and one white; no problems encountered. Replaced the timer asmy about 2 months ago and then the heater core goes. Indicator when the timer goes: it buzzes. The main contact (BK/BU) did not open fully (burnt), the timer motor had 1/2 voltage (100 or so volts), which allowed it to buzz. Initially burnished (sanded) the contacts but the problem came back. Saw it as fire hazard, since it didn't secure the power to the whole system; so it was replaced. They've been the only two parts to go, the rest of the dryer is still holding strong. If your dryer is over 5yrs, recommend you vacuum it out the inside of the cabinet and inside the exhaust/fan chamber. It takes a little work to get the chamber open (double sided sealing tape) around the exhaust port for the drum, but worth it in the long run (reduces the chance of a lint fire in the exhaust chamber).
I read the repair stories on PartSelect.com and decided to buy the thermostat, fuse, and heating element so I was sure to fix whatever the problem was on the first try. I replaced the thermostat fuse and hi-heat thermostat before finding the heating element was broken. I replaced it and even with my 4 and 6 year old helpers, was finished in 20 minutes. Thanks to the PartSelect schematic, I knew what I was looking for and it was as easy as in the picture. I saved time and money thanks to PartSelect.com and other user comments on the site.
First, and most important, we cut all electricity to the dryer (fusebox and then unplugged). We pulled the dryer out and removed the hose from the back of the dryer and then removed all the screws. Once the back was off we removed the heating element and it took a little force to remove the wires but we did it lightly with a pair of needle nose pliers. The video on the Parts Select website was really helpful because we knew exactly where to look for the heating element and what was involved to remove it. Once we took out the heating element we did a light clean over the back to remove any lint we could and then we hooked up the new heating element. You have to give it a little push to lock it in place so don't be afraid to use a little force. Put all your screws back in, hook-up your vent hose, reposition, and then turn the electricity back on! Really easy!
Removed & Replaced heating element, thermostat, thermal fuse, and walla, it's done. Just Three bolts to remove. Less than fifteen minutes work!! Works great!!
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