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PartSelect Number PS334313
This element is strung with a coiled wire made of a nickel and a chrome alloy. This wire receives, but resists, a controlled electric current and as a result, the wire heats up. The heat produced is used to dry the clothes in your dryer.
This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
I made sure dryer was unplugged and I removed back to expose the heating element canal on lower right side. Removed two screws and two electical connections. Pulled the element down and out. Used a flathead screwdriver to slowly pry the thermo senor off the heating element assy. There are no screws here just a small metal piece to hold it in place. Discarded the old element and reversed the above procedure. The best part of this is the part arrived quickly and I saved $50-75.
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My wife took the back off the dryer, took 2 screws out of each side of the heating element caseing, unplugged heating element. Plugged in new element, put caseing back in place replaced 2 screws, put dryer cover back on, finished. Works great again.
This was soo much easier then I thought!!! Make sure you unplug the dryer FIRST!! I removed the bolts that held the dryer back with the socket wrench. The removed the 2 screws that held the heating element in place. Disconnecting the cords was a little harder but will come off with the pliers. There is that piece of your old heating element that you need to remove to put on the new one that was hard to get off. its being held on by a metal lip and at first I couldnt figure out how to get it off, but then I just kept bending it (the metal lip) until I was able to get the piece off of it. Then just connect the wires onto the same points that your removed them from. Replace screws and back of the dryer and WaLa!!! You've just saved yourself the price of labor for an electrician.... Trust me if I can do this YOU can... My husband thought I was crazy.. I get shocked changing light bulbs but my dryer is drying a load of clothes as we speak!!!
Unplugged Dryer.Removed back panel & dryer hose - About 10 screwsRemoved Heating element - two screwsFollowed instructions for replacing old thermal cut-off with new model (this was slightly different from original equipment - wiring modification was required) All connections were detailed in the instructions. Jumper wire and new screws included in Thermal Cut-Off kit.Cleaned lint and dust from inside dryer.Replaced back panel and dryer hose.Tested dryer, works like new.
Simply checked the thermostats for conductivity and found that they were working properly. Removed the heating element to check for conductivity and discovered a broken coil. If I had the part ready to go the whole process from taking off the first screw to replacing the element to screwing on the last screw would have taken less than 15 minutes. Very simple repair that I almost paid a service technician an additional amount for something that a novice DYI'er could do.
Slam Dunk, in less than 1 hour I replaced the element myself I saved 100.00 over a repair man and 400.00 over a replacement.
It's amazing... I fixed my dryer!! I am a 47 year old woman with no technical training, and I did it!I live in a apartment and I bought the Whirlpool Dryer (Model #LER7646JQ0) USED for $150 about 6 months ago. The dryer started blowing cold air, so I called the place that I bought it from and they quoted me a price of at least $300 to fix the dryer. After searching through google, I found the partselect.com website, and read the repair stories. I decided to take a chance. I ordered just 2 of the suggest 4 parts that could fix the issue, and the dryer did not work. The next day I order the other 2 parts, and that did it - my dryer was fixed. The diagrams on the site were a little confusing to me (the dryers looks a little simpler inside) but it was easy to repair. I used a screw driver and plier to do the repair, however it would have been much easier if I had a socket set. I would suggest buying all parts suggested, and return the items you don't need. Here are the parts I used:1. THRMST-FIX (Thermostat, High Limit 221 F2. USE WPL 279838 (Heating Element (10" long x 6" wide)3. Thermal Cut-Off Kit4. Cycling Thermostat (Limit: 155-25) (Thermostat, Internal-Bias)Good Luck!
1. Unplug unit, next disconnect vent then remove back cover. 2. replaced element (very easy) then 2 thermostats, then put cover back on. 3. Removed frt. cover by following directions that came with maint. kit this too was easy. The hardest part is getting belt on as your putting drum back in, and even that was only so hard. Just TAKE YOUR TIME, and you will get it.
I followed the very easy, well defined instructions on your web site--Best repair instructions I have ever seen.FrankR
easy part break down yall had. did not have it in my budget to buy both appliances, so found your web site. spent less than $100 to fix both. thanks, Chon
I unplugged the dryer and took the back off the appliance. I looked online to see what the problem probably was. I saw a diagram of where the heating element was. It had two small screws holding the element on. I removed them and detached three wires from the side of it being careful to write down what wire went where.The part select repair site popped up on an internet search so I ordered the heating element, and the fuse and thermostat and another piece. Some of the wires were loose at other places so I reattached them and tightened them. I think the only part the dryer actually needed was the piece about a foot up from the heating element.It was in the thermal cut off kit that I ordered. After replacing the other three parts, I replaced that and the heat came on. Eureka! I love my cordless screwdriver. It made taking the screws out and reinstalling them a breeze. I did notice on this dryer that it says to only use a metal vent, not foil or plastic as they can be a fire hazard. I bought the dryer for forty dollars on craigslist and have spent about a hundred and fifteen dollars fixing it up including a new dryer belt and door latch. I am looking foward to repairing something else. From a 50 year old lady. It was easier than making biscuits.
The toughest part of the job was due to the fact that I was working in a small 1st floor laundry room. I had to pull the dryer out from the wall in order to get to the rear and squeeze between it and the washer to get behind it. I could not pull it out all the way because the 220 cord is only so long and the vent comes out also. After that, I unplugged the power cable, removed the vent, removed the back with my nut driver, disconnected a couple connectors, removed the existing heat element with my nut driver. Then I installed the new heating element and continued with doing all of the above in reverse. My wife is happy! Best of luck to all....Jerry
After unplugging the dryer, I removed the 8 screws on the back of the dryer, then removed the large metal plate covering the heating element. I then removed the two connectors from the element. I had to remove what I think is the thermostat from the old element, and then put it on the new one. I then reversed all previous steps. Lo and behold ... the dryer was heating again! I could not have done this without PartSelect.com. Their site, images, part info and user repair stories all helped in making me (a very un-handy guy) a successful repair man ,,, and helped me save over $150!
First I removed the back plate of the dryier, 6 bolts,. the heating elemant was held in place by 2 bolts then slides into the venting chamber, disconect the female conections lower old heating elemant, revers and repeat. i dont fix much but this was a snap, clean the machine while your in there
Simple repair. Removed back cover off of dryer about 10 screws with socket and ratchet. Removed 4 screws from element. Vacuumed it out. Then the same thing in reverse. Bing bang boom done. I think troubleshooting took the longest. What I finally did was plugged back in the dryer and turned it on and watched to see if the element started glowing. After that I verified that there was between 220 and 240 VAC across the contacts with a DMM ((NOTE) be very, very careful when and if attempting this.) That led me to replace the element after I figured there was no fuse blown.
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