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PartSelect Number PS334313
This element is strung with a coiled wire made of a nickel and a chrome alloy. This wire receives, but resists, a controlled electric current and as a result, the wire heats up. The heat produced is used to dry the clothes in your dryer.
This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
To reach the heating element you only need to open the back cover of the dryer (about 8 nut-head screws). Remember to disconnect the power.To remove the heating element there are two small nut-head screws. Remove the two electric wires. Then you can pull the heating element away.You can check the heating element with an ohm-meter or visually inspect it to see if the heating element spiral wire is broken. Don't hurry to dispose the old element. My model includes a small electric safety part. You'll need to transfer it to the new heating element (that comes without it)..Good luck.
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The repair was easy. the most time consuming part was vacuuming the dust from the back of the Dryer, The repair required removing screw from the back panel of the dryer. Then removing screws from the heating element and unplugging the wires. The only moderately diffculy part was swapping the sensor form the old element.
Moved dryer from wall,disconnected power. Unscrewed the 12+ sheet metal screws holding on the back cover. Located heating element, remover it's two sheet metal screws and pulled down on the element to remove. Disconnected the two electrical leads from element and went to the top of Dryer. Do not remiember if told to remove the tempture kill button was easy to see that it was needed on new element. Moved high tempeture senson to new element. Reversed steps to install new element. Replaced back cover, pluged in and powered up. Works like a champ. Thanks for the price on the part and the video which started me on the right track. I'll be back !!
I first disconnected the power. Then, I took off the back panel with about 8-10 screws. There were a couple of screws that held the heating element in place, which I removed. Then, I disconnected the heating element. The heating element was toward the bottom right hand side and was easily accessible. The connections to the heating element were a little bit tough to disconnect but not too bad. I had to use a flat head screw driver to kind of pry them off but looking back I think some needlenose pliers would have worked better. I then removed the bad heating element and plugged in the new one. I replaced all the screws and turned the dryer back on. It blew hot air again and all was well. I am not very mechanical and it was all pretty easy.
First I had to take the back cover off. I removed the heating element and the thermostat and replaced them with the new repairs. It was relatively simple---any handiman could do it and would not require a repairman. We talked to a salesman at Sears to see what they thought the problem could be and then got on the internet. The best part was that the repairs came within a few days of placing my order. That was super!!!Thank you for your fast response.
First I called an appliance repair place. They charged me $40 to come out and said "the air vent might be clogged". I snaked it out and really wasn't anything in there. So I started thinking it might be a thermostat. After reading the reviews that others posted here, I said, "how hard can it be"? Thanks to PartsSelect putting a diagram (schematic) of the parts, I could see what I was looking for when I removed the back panel. So I took my nutdrivers out, disconnected the vent hose and removed the 10 or so nuts off the back panel & got it out of the way. Took out the vacuum cleaner and sucked all the lint out. Removed the housing where the heating element was and marked on both thermostats and housing where each wires went. As cheap as PartsSelect had the thermostats priced, I figured why not remove the guesswork by buying the highlimit and cycling thermostats and a new heating element too. One screw in each thermostat and out they came. Swapped wires with new thermostats and put them back. With the heating element...it was all one piece, so no fighting to get the element into an old housing. Just swapped them. Put the back panel on and reconnected the vent hose. Cost to repair: about $100. Time for parts to get to me: 2 days. Time to install new parts: about 10 minutes. Knowing that I have a dryer that runs like new AND saving a TON of money on electric bill....THAT is priceless. Thanks PartsSelect!
After realizing that my dryer was no longer heating, I took off the back and examined the heating element. I saw that a coil was broken and knew that it needed replaced. When the part came in, I basically changed out the wires that were plugged into the old element on to the new one, replaced the screws in the heating element housing and back panel, plugged in the dryer and was back in business! Oh, by the way...I am a 49 year old WOMAN!!!!
after watching many videos on my problem and finding Partselect i read about others with same type issues and i decided to attempt my own repair.the first thing i did was go to home depot and buy a ohm meter around $10 then started testing all switches etc.first unplug the dryer then removed the rear panal and tested all circuits.my heating element tested bad so i removed it following the instructions from partselect taking about 5min.my heating element was broken.its funny but my dryer kept on running continually when it stopped heating,but the timer would move to the very end and just not quit.after reading on partselect i determined that my resistor not my timer was the problem.so i ordered the resistor without testing it first from partselect.turns out it was the problem now my dryer heats up fine and goes off like its supose to.i do advise to test things first like i should have but i just got lucky on the resistor.partselect is the only place i will buy from they are fast getting your part to you 2 days for me,and very cost effective.i spent around $84 including the cost of a ohm meter to repair my dryer which is 18 years old.beats the cost of replacing the dryer which i think many will agree.good luck on your repair hope this helped it was my first time ever repairing any home appliance.
Removed rear panel 10 screws, and heating element was situated on the right hand side of dryer and was held in place by two screws and had two heavy duty red wires connected to the element which were easily removed . Installing this item was a breeze .
Removed front panel, drum,replaced belt,tensioner and worn rollers. Then removed rear panel and replaced heating element and high limit thermostat. While I was there completely cleaned inside of dryer. Repair and replacement of parts was quite easy. Just take your time and don't hurry it.
I ordered up a new heating coil. It was plug and play, real easy to do. Make sure to turn on the dryer with the before you put it back together to make sure the heating coils heat up. Be careful though, it will get real hot, so run for a second or two. Also, you may see a little smoke as the coil burns in, that should be fine. Once it is tested and works, let it cool off, then reattach it, put on the backplate and you are done!
i decided to order the new element which was the most expensive part then decided to add the thermostats just incase they were bad because they were rather inexpensive. got the parts in took the back off the dryer located the parts i ordered and simply replaced them with the power cut off to the unit. put the back on and it heated like it was better that new my clothes dry 5 times faster than it did when i bought the thing.
I wasn't sure if I was going to be able to do the repair myself. Happily, I was able to and my dryer works like new ! I figure I probably saved about a 100 bucks doing it myself rather than calling out a repair man. Oh, did I mention I am female and didn't have to have a man do this for me. :)
Took the back off with a cordless drill with an apex holder. I unplugged the old wires from the old heating element and plugged them into the new heating element. Put the back back on after testing it to make sure it worked and that was it. Since this element was in a housing it was really simple to reinstall the new one.
I removed the four screws holding theheating element, then I pulled the element outand then put the new element in and huckedthe wires from the old element after I disconnectedthem to the new element..no problem......
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