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PartSelect Number PS334313
The heating element is strung with a coiled wire that is made out of a nickel and chrome alloy. The function of the coiled wire on the heating element is to receive and resist a controlled electric current, which as a result will allow the wire to heat up. The heat produced by this is used to dry the clothes in your dryer. In order to make this repair you will need a 1/4 inch nut driver and a pair of needle nose pliers. Before starting your installation, disconnect the power supply to your dryer in order to ensure a safe repair.
This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
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The part arrived in less than 5 days. Unplugged power cord and disconnected the vent line. Removed about 8 hex head screws from the back panel on dryer. Took pictures of everything to reference if I forgot how I took it apart. Used needle nose pliers to remove two wires connected to heating element. Removed 4 screws holding heating element in place. Pull down on heating element to slide off mount. Slide new heating element into place, connected wires, secured it in place with the screws. Vacuumed all the lent in and around the dryer. Before replacing back panel I tested dryer to make sure that it worked and no danger of fire. Replaced the back panel and dried two loads of clothes while I was home to make sure it worked. I did this while my husband was watching football and never knew what I was doing. Saved about $150 bucks and avoided taking time off from work to wait for service man.
Took my VOM and did a continuity test on the heating coil and thermos switch. Heating coil was open
I followed the very easy, well defined instructions on your web site--Best repair instructions I have ever seen.FrankR
Replaced heating element, thermostats and fuse, cleaned dryer vent shafts and it is now working like when it was new.
I took the back off 1st put the element and thermostats in... 2nd I took the front off the dryer and replaced the belt.....3rd I blew out all the lint and dust and then put it back together it was a cake walk...I want to add that the parts arrived extremely "FAST" and "ACCURATE"... which made the job that much easier.....
I unplugged the dryer and took the back off the appliance. I looked online to see what the problem probably was. I saw a diagram of where the heating element was. It had two small screws holding the element on. I removed them and detached three wires from the side of it being careful to write down what wire went where.The part select repair site popped up on an internet search so I ordered the heating element, and the fuse and thermostat and another piece. Some of the wires were loose at other places so I reattached them and tightened them. I think the only part the dryer actually needed was the piece about a foot up from the heating element.It was in the thermal cut off kit that I ordered. After replacing the other three parts, I replaced that and the heat came on. Eureka! I love my cordless screwdriver. It made taking the screws out and reinstalling them a breeze. I did notice on this dryer that it says to only use a metal vent, not foil or plastic as they can be a fire hazard. I bought the dryer for forty dollars on craigslist and have spent about a hundred and fifteen dollars fixing it up including a new dryer belt and door latch. I am looking foward to repairing something else. From a 50 year old lady. It was easier than making biscuits.
The toughest part of the job was due to the fact that I was working in a small 1st floor laundry room. I had to pull the dryer out from the wall in order to get to the rear and squeeze between it and the washer to get behind it. I could not pull it out all the way because the 220 cord is only so long and the vent comes out also. After that, I unplugged the power cable, removed the vent, removed the back with my nut driver, disconnected a couple connectors, removed the existing heat element with my nut driver. Then I installed the new heating element and continued with doing all of the above in reverse. My wife is happy! Best of luck to all....Jerry
After unplugging the dryer, I removed the 8 screws on the back of the dryer, then removed the large metal plate covering the heating element. I then removed the two connectors from the element. I had to remove what I think is the thermostat from the old element, and then put it on the new one. I then reversed all previous steps. Lo and behold ... the dryer was heating again! I could not have done this without PartSelect.com. Their site, images, part info and user repair stories all helped in making me (a very un-handy guy) a successful repair man ,,, and helped me save over $150!
I went on partsselect.com's web site, punched in the model number and easily found the parts I needed. Parts arrived in two days. Repairs went well, especially when my wife was my tool assistant! I recommend this site as a must for do it yourself repairs that will save you a lot of money.
First I removed the back plate of the dryier, 6 bolts,. the heating elemant was held in place by 2 bolts then slides into the venting chamber, disconect the female conections lower old heating elemant, revers and repeat. i dont fix much but this was a snap, clean the machine while your in there
Simple repair. Removed back cover off of dryer about 10 screws with socket and ratchet. Removed 4 screws from element. Vacuumed it out. Then the same thing in reverse. Bing bang boom done. I think troubleshooting took the longest. What I finally did was plugged back in the dryer and turned it on and watched to see if the element started glowing. After that I verified that there was between 220 and 240 VAC across the contacts with a DMM ((NOTE) be very, very careful when and if attempting this.) That led me to replace the element after I figured there was no fuse blown.
Removed the back cover off the dryer removing 9 screws. Heating element was in lower right corner as described on your site. We removed the screws holding it on and using pliers disconnected the two wires. We had to use one piece from the old element so keep it until all the repairs are complete. We reconnected the two wires and replaced the cover. We were ready to go then. We are not good at applaince repairs but with the directions given at your site this was so easy. Thanks!! I am sure this saved us so much by doing it ourselves.
After only 4 years, my Maytag dryer stopped producing any heat although it would continue to run (drum would turn) but never auto-shut-off. After reading several entries on this site I narrowed the issue down to the 'Heating Element'. I've never done a dryer repair before but I took a shot and ordered the part. I unplugged the dryer first (of course) then removed the 8 or 10 1/4" screws from the back of the dryer which removed the entire back panel. I also had to disconnect the dryer vent. The heating element is on the bottom right, covered by a silver aluminum casing. I removed another 2 screws to take out that casing (and the element with it). Next was simply using a pair of pliers to remove one wire at a time from the old element and connecting it to the new element in the same place. There were only 3 or 4 total. I put everything back together, plugged it in a voila - I had a working dryer again. I just took my time and made sure everything was hooked up exactly as it was before. This site was such a huge help, thanks!
Took off back of dryer, removed screws fromheater unit, replaced wire for wire on to new unit,I could not replace all screws, no hole in new unit.all work great.
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