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PartSelect Number PS334310
This is an M series new style coil kit, used in gas dryers. When the igniter reaches a high enough temperature, these coils work together to let the gas enter the dryer. The coils open the gas valve; if the valve does not open the heating element will not ignite. Both coils must be operational for the valve to open. This is a safety mechanism to ensure that there are no unsafe buildups of gas inside your appliance. This kit comes with a three-terminal boost/hold coil, and a two-terminal main coil. Each part is approximately 1 1/4 inches in diameter. If the igniter glows but shuts off without igniting gas, it means one of both of your valves is faulty. We recommend you replace these as a set. Before you begin this repair unplug your appliance and shut off the gas supply.
This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
Replaced both Coils. Purchased M Series coils much less expensive buying coils together instead of seperately. Problem solved.
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Ohmed coils and both had continuity so I changed radiant heat sensor. No bench test for Radiant Heat sensor. Same problem. Changed both coils and dryer works fine. Weak coils were my problem. I read thru the same issues in Parts Select forum and it said Radiant Heat sensor was problem 25% of the time. With coils having continuity and no ohm value specified for coils I made wrong choice but, I have spare parts and look for another 10 years of life in the dryer. Nice to have this forum to research appliance repair. Very helpful for parts location and installation. Dishwasher is next!
I followed the advice posted by other customers. I took the front off the dryer, put the door back in place and ran a cycle. I could see that the igniter was heating properly, but no gas was flowing. Based on what I read I concluded that it was a problem with one of the gas valve coils. It was relatively inexpensive to replace both (and the dry is 10 years old), so I didn't go to the trouble of determining the bad one. I replaced them both. Obviously I unplugged the dryer (no need to turn off gas). There were 2 screws that held the bracket in place which holds the coils. I disconnected the coils, removed the bracket screws, replaced the coils, reattached the bracket screws and reconnected the coils. I then reattached the front plate to the dryer. It was very easy and took about 20 minutes and I had never worked on a dryer before.
Inherited an older Maytag natural gas dryer that was not heating . Just heated at start then would not after 5 mins or so. Went to Partselect site and it had a troubleshooting section and read and narrowed down the part needed by ohming the coils. Ordered the coils for less than $20 and ordered a natural gas to propane conversion kit. Parts arrived in 2 days on regular shipping, very quick! Instruction were very simple to follow and coils were installed in under 15 mins. Propane conversion kit was perfect and was installed in 30 mins and dryer ran just like new. Cleaned inside thoroughly and couldn't be happier. Thank you partselect for great service and saving what would have been more than a $300 service call. Did myself for under $50. I highly recommend this site and will use when ever I can!!! Great service, great way to do business!!!
First and Foremost i was told that my problem was with the Thermal Fuse (Fix Ya.com), Then with the little Electrical knowledge I have thought Fuses don't turn on and off,If the fuse was bad i would get No Heat. (Even for a second) Fuses just don't turn on and turn off intermittently,when they go there done! So after a little research i decided to order the gas coil valve. I tilted the top up, two screws on the front panel, took that off and the valves were exposed,(bottom left) two screws too remove bracket then installed new coils on bracket,put back together and I Have Heat Again! NO problems what so ever since new install. I would say having not been for cleaning lint build up inside the machine (been 6 years) the Whole project took me Ten Minutes.
loosened two screws on back of top,lifted top away from front panel.it just lifts off front corners,removed two screws at top corners.lift front panel up and out,this panel supports dryer tub,remove slowly,unplug door switch parts are located left side bottom two screws holding in had to have wife hold drum up to put front panel on
Same as others. 1. Unplug dryer from power source2. Use nut driver to remove two front screws at bottom of dryer3. Disconnect cable connected to Secondary Coil (this is the coil towards the rear of the dryer)4. Use angled phillips screw driver to loosen screws holding cap on top of the two coils. (Angled tool not required but seemed easiest to me)5. Slide top cap back towards lock screw to allow coil to be lifted out6. Remove and replace secondary coil7. Replace cap, tighten screws to lock in place, reconnect cable to coil8. Restore power to dryer, test and confirm gas flame stays lit9. Replace lower front panel on unitPartsSelect a great resource to use for home repairs like these. My first time using site and doing this type of work, now PartsSelect my first source to go to on such items.
Replaced coils on gas valve.
After reading the many different common stories,I replaced both coils (m series).Very simply lifted up the top of driver,held by 2 snap springs and 2 lint vent screws.Removed front cover,2 screws and 2 bottom snaps,coils down on bottom left.r/r both coils,reinstalled covers and let there be heat!This website is a blessing!!
I removed the Drier Door and removed the Front Drier Panel exposing the Gas Valve & associated parts. I removed two (2) screws holding the Gas Valve Coils in place & replaced the 2 terminal coil, then replaced the screws, Front Cover & Drier Door. I liked the results so much, I ordered the other Gas Valve Coil and will replace it also when it arrives.Good trouble shooting information.
1st, I have a 50 yr electrical background. Impressive right. Anyway my problem was with a Gas Whirlpool Dryer (2004).I can’t express enough how important on any dryer to clean the venting system and the exhaust fan as recommended. I usually do but I let it go 2.5 years more than I usually do. So when the dryer was running it was not completely plugged but enough to get things more toasty inside the machine. The Igniter was lighting when the machine was cool and the gas flowed fine then the gas stopped but the igniter still was trying to start the flame again. As soon as the temperature dropped it would start to work again.I watched a few videos on its repair and figured if it was needed, I might as well order the Gas Valve Coils, new Drum Belt, and Tension Pulley assy. I Unplugged machine, and shut off gas to it. I got my meters out opened the back, pretty easy, make sure to wear gloves SHARP STUFF. All stats and sensors tested well (not Open Circuit). Removed the Motor Cover and it was packed with Lint. ShopVac time. Nice and clean did the whole back while I was at it. Put all covers back on, put back on, gas on, plugged in. Tried machine same issue. Turned off Gas, Unplugged Machine, and Lifted top after removing 2 screws by Lint screen Port being careful not to drop them back into Lint Screen Port. Unplugged door switch connector Removed (2) 5/16” screws holding front on and lifted front off. I shimmed the drum so it would not dangle. Unplugged (2) Gas valve coils and checked for an open, but they checked good. Note: Sometimes this happens when the coils are cold, and they don’t fail until they get warm. Removed and replaced coils, new Drum Belt, and Tension Pulley assembly, vacuumed carefully. Put front back on, Plugged door switch back together, Put Top down and secured with the 2 screws.It is suggested that you put some cold damp towels or clothes in before testing so the dampness will make the sensors see the proper temperature in the drum. Put the Lint Screen back in, Turned on Gas, Plugged machine back in. Success I Spent $40 and saved $600+. NOT TO MENTION, HAPPY WIFE/ HAPPY LIFE. Good luck and I strongly suggest you watch as many videos as you can on the web. I might mention that prices were the best, but check around if you don’t believe me. Good Luck.Thank you,-Larry Burbank, CA
Accessed the front of the dryer cab by removing 4 screws (2 cover, 2 hinge) which also allowed the door to be removed. The front panel pivots at the bottom, towards the front. Changed the igniter first (loosen 1 screw, slide old unit out, slide new unit in, retighten screw, transfer electrical connector) though the unit looked OK, then changed the gas valve solenoid coil packs (disconnect electrical plugs, remove coil bracket (2 screws), swap new coils for old, and reassemble). Vacuumed up loose dirt and reinstalled front panel and door. Also removed, cleaned, shortened, and reinstalled the dryer flex duct as a maintenance item. Dryer works perfectly again!
Watched youtube video to problem shoot. Cause determined to be coils bad. Searched web found Parts Select to be easiest site to deal with and had coils for best price. Followed instructions supplied with parts. Dryer works like new.
I opened up the dryer lifting the lid with a putty knife and removed the two screws holding the front. I reached in and removed the belt and removed the drum. I took my shop vac and cleaned all the lint, the door passage to the lint screen extremly full of hard lint. I tested the coils with my multi meter and they tested bad. I also did the test that was suggested by Part Select and again it showed the coils as bad. Once I received the parts about three days, it only took about twenty minutes to install using just a screw driver to replace the coils and the belt went on real easy with easy access to the tentioner. and my dryer now runs more quiet and dries the clothes in half the time it used to take. My belt was still in pretty good shape but I put a new one on since I had it apart any way. My friend had the same problem with his dryer and spent $300.00 for a repairman to do the same thing. I tried to tell him it is not rocket science and very easy to do yourself. Thank you Part Select for the good repair advice as well as the timely delivery of the parts.
Really an easy fix. 2 5/16" screws hold the cover on below the dryer door. From here it's easy access to the gas element. 2 more screws for the valve cover and disconnected the attached wires to the gas coil valves. slip the news ones in place, re-attach the wires and install the holder.Tested the dryer and it fired right up. Put panel back in place and the wife is happy it didn't cost us more than just the parts. Yep, she's a lucky girl. ;0)
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