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PartSelect Number PS334310
This is an M series new style coil kit, used in gas dryers. When the igniter reaches a high enough temperature, these coils work together to let the gas enter the dryer. The coils open the gas valve; if the valve does not open the heating element will not ignite. Both coils must be operational for the valve to open. This is a safety mechanism to ensure that there are no unsafe buildups of gas inside your appliance. This kit comes with a three-terminal boost/hold coil, and a two-terminal main coil. Each part is approximately 1 1/4 inches in diameter. If the igniter glows but shuts off without igniting gas, it means one of both of your valves is faulty. We recommend you replace these as a set. Before you begin this repair unplug your appliance and shut off the gas supply.
This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
As many of the other posts here on this website mentioned, I had the same problem of the dryer not heating up. I removed the front panel (4 screws on each side inside of door - easy - followed instructions) and once off I was able to view the igniter glowing properly so I knew the starter/igniter was not the issue. Everything I read then suggested that it must be the two terminal gas valve coil, and sure enough it was. Ordered part -- got it in literally a couple days -- removed bracket (two screws) put in new coil -- turned it on -- works great. Could not have been easier. This is a great website and would recommend it to everyone who is a Do It Yourselfer.
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i read some of previous customer problems and fixes pulled the front cover off found coil's location when i turned on drier you could see the ignitor getv hot but burner would not ignite unless i put a little pressure on secondary coil when i let go of coil flame would go out. ordered 'M' series new style coil kit came in in about three days installed parts drier workng good i would reuse parts select agian thanks
Remove the dryer door hinges from whichever side they are attached to.Remove the two plastic tabs on the opposite side from hinges. Tilt the front panel forward and lift to remove. All the parts are located in the bottom front side of dryer. Two screws remove coil valve cover, the coils slide upward for removal. One coil has two prongs, one has three, replace them in correct positions and reattach cover. One screw holds igniter in place, remove and unplug old one, carefully install new one so not to damage it. Thermostat has one screw holding it in, remove and unplug four wires, remember to plug each wire into new thermostat before removing the next one so you don't wire it incorrectly. Reinstall front panel of dryer and you're done.
Firstly, i checked the website for Problems and solutions. i was able to diagnose 2 possible sources of the problem. The Thermostat or the coils. i bought the both.I removed the front.I checked the right bottom where the burner was located. i traced the location of the coils. i removed just 2 screws to free them from the bracket. then replaced the new ones. it works just as before. i did not replace the thermostat. Please disconnect the power supply and the gas supply before doing any repair.
I take me less then 15 min easy to change parts all you need is a screwdriver and replace the parts save me some good money thanks.??
I follow the instructions provided on the your web site, the instructions were very easy to follow and to the point. In all it easier than expected. your information regarding the probability that the indicated part will solve the problem are great! That gave me a good feeling about ordering the part from you. Thanks for your help.
I unplug the electric, close the gas valve, use the putty blade to prize up the top,unplug the electric horness, took the front door off, took the anker plate off the two coils, removed the wire from each coil,be careful not toget the wires mixed up one coil has two proms and the other has three proms after that u put everything back together the way u took it off!!
Installed new coil, helped but have other issues that I'm troubleshooting.
watched a youtube video. it only described how to put the belt on as it isn't even visible as you're trying to loop the belt around a pulley, drum and the clutch without a twist in the belt. i understand why there wasn't video. unless you're good at reaching in behind the motor and drum with little room to get your arms and hands and through to loop around the clutch roller without a twisted loop which would break the belt within minutes, i suggest calling the 'maytag' repairman as i am forced because there's a trick to it!
went on line to look up the problem troubleshooting a maytag gas dryer. after checking different sites I figured that I needed a coil valve. searched for the part I needed and found the best deal on this site. I ordered the part and and by following the directions. I was able to replace the part on my own.
Accessed and removed the rear panel. I replaced the three electrical components with a nut driver and reattached the rear panel. The fix worked, so I have not yet replaced the gas coil sensors at the front of the dryer. The dryer is 19 years old, so the electrical connectors were pretty tight. I used needle nose pliers to pull the connectors free and prevent any damage to the wires. Good Luck.
I've nothing to add to the techniques already described in the other narratives except that the dryer operated normally at first, but then after around 10 minutes the flame no longer cycled. I suspected a bad high limit thermostat since the valves seemed to be working. I ordered the replacement coils only because they were listed as the most common thing to fail. After replacing the T-Stat there was no change; I started checking things w/ a multimeter and found that all the T-Stats were closed. I should have done that at first. Anyway, since I had the new coils I decided to put them in. The dryer has workd perfectly ever since. Lesson to be learned: the coils may check ok when cold, but become inoperable after heating up a bit.
Diagnose that the circuit is functioning up to the igniter. This is done by removing the peep hole cover on the bottom front panel, turn the dryer on and watch for a glowing igniter. My dryer would still ignite the first time because the coils would not show an "open" until they heated up. So if you see the igniter glow it is most likely your coils are bad. Remove two screws from lint trap area on top of dryer. Pry up on top panel at the two clips. Panel is on hinges, so flip it out of the way or just brace it with something enough to keep it off the front panel. Remove the two bolts from inside top corners of the front panel. Use a small punch or screw driver to push in on the tab to release the doors electrical connector. Pull straight up on front panel to remove it from bottom clips. The gas valve is very easy to get to without removing the drum. If needed for inspection or cleaning, just pull back on the belt tensioner to remove the belt from the motor and then pull the drum out. Or just use a stubby phillips screw driver to remove the bracket from the top of the ignition coils. Use a very small flat head screw driver to lift the locking tab on each electrical connector while removing. Remove the coils and place new ones in very same position (note the tab or key way of the coils faces up and are defined in the bracket). Re-assemble all parts making sure connections are tight and drum is correctly mounted. Note: if you remove the drum, return the belt back, in a loop, through the tensioner. This part hurt my head for a moment because I did not pay attention. Also a good idea to vacuum the debris and lint while your in there! As always check to make sure the exhaust pipe is clear. Have fun!
All the videos said the same thing. If the Igniter works and the gas ignites bit shuts off soon after that, then the coils are bad. I bought the coils and it didn't fix the problem. My bad, I should have put my meter on it to test it before I bought the part and waited a week to get the coils. Now I'm in the process of illuminating the sensors. I will figure it out. Make sure you use the meter. It will save you the headaches.
Replaced Coil kit and internal bias thermostat. Checked overheat fuse. Still not heat. R/P igniter and igniter thermostat to be sure not bad. Still no light or heat to ignitor. Pulled wires from two thermostats in series where flame comes out and found them burnt and one completely open. Repaired wire and dryer works. Had relied on various videos to get me through process. Parts were not that expensive so I don't really think a waste of money compared to calling a repair person.
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