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PartSelect Number PS334299
This clothes dryer thermal cut-off kit includes one high limit thermostat with a limit of 250 degrees Fahrenheit, and one thermal cut-off fuse (309 degrees). This kit also includes flat heaters with jumper wires.
This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
all sensors/fuses were measuring open at room temperature with an ohmmeter.Called Whirlpool for drawing and install and got nothing.Found nice video on you tube.Unscrewed and replaced each device one by one.The terminal mod went exactly as portrayed.Owner pleased.
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Were these instructions helpful?
Initially I incorrectly diagnosed the problem... Make sure to test the continuity in all thermostats and heating element to identify which part is not working. Easiest way is to use a meter with an audible ohm continuity setting. Test the continuity on all thermostats/fuses, and element. If there is no continuity chances are that is it.Good luck!
The repair itself was easy however testing the components was not easy. I first just guessed and replaced the start switch. when that did not work I did some more research and bought a multimeter. I did not buy a meter that tested for continuity so I did more research and found that if I set it on ohms and if the meter went to 0 the component is good if it went to anything else the component is bad. Any way I bought the thermal fuse and the thermostat kit. the part for the fuse was correct but only 1 thermostat in the kit I bought was correct. as soon as I put the fuse in the dryer immiediately started.I know it is reccommended to replace the thermostat too even if it reads good because it could be going bad but I left the old one in because even after opening the door with the timer on the heating element would stay on with the new thermostat so I was aprehensive about leaving the new one in and took it out and put the old one back. well two days later the dryer would not start again. I have tested all of the thermostats and they are all good except the one so I replaced it with one I got in the kit and had to order a new thermal fuse. I am hopping that I will get it right this time. I am into this repair about 80 dollars 1 new start switch I did not need 10$. the thermostat kit 20$ and I only used 1 out of the 2 because the second one is not compatible. 2 thermal fuses now 20$ A multimeter 20$. plus shipping costs. I still feel like I have saved 75 to 100 dollars and now I know more about how to repair a dryer. I think that once I get the new fuse It will start. I hope this helps all of those out there trying to save a dollar. I recommend buying a multimeter that tests for continuity so that you can test all of the components with ease. It is hard to be sure about what you are testing and trust what yourself after reading the information on line. If I had to do this over again I would have just bought the 1 thermostat I needed and the fuse and trusted that I really needed to replace that stat because putting that dryer vent back on is going to worse than the repair. Good luck to all.
LOOKED UP DIAGRAM OF WIRING FOR THE MODEL I HAVE AND SAW THE THERMAL KIT. I ORDERED IT PLUS ANOTHER PART I DIDN'T NEED.Just followed instructions from the parts description....Ordered a cople other parts I did not need but will keep them for future use.
PartSelect website was hugely helpful. The diagram of the dryer was great. I determined my thermal cut-off switch was bad. The part was ordered and arrived in a couple days. It was very easy to change. If your thermal cut off is tripped, don't forget to clean your entire duct work, it is most likely blocked or restricted.
removed the back housing of the dryer and located the thermal switch. unscrewed the old one, popped in the new one and whala! I was back in business!put the back cover back on the dryer and pushed it back into place.
My original problem was due to a blocked/ broken vent tube, which lead to the failure of the thermal cutoff switch. It was super easy to diagnose using the instructions provided on this site (found an open circuit where it was supposed to be closed). The site helped my identify the correct part and the install was super easy.
I unhooked dryer and removed the back panel. then followed the directions for installation of the repair parts I ordered. It was pretty easy ,only two small thermostat type parts and about five or six wires.
first i removed the back cover by removing the six 1/4 inch screws then i removed the wires to the thermal switch there were three of them and using an ohm meter i checked each one for continuity until i found the one that had an open circuit. i removed the two 1/4 inch screws holding it in place and replaced it with the new one.
after replacing 3 different parts, the dryer would finally run at a total cost of approx. $80.00. This is still cheaper than a repairman coming to the house, as the service call is $79.99 plus parts & tax.
used a multi-meter to determine defective cutout switches and other devices.found cutout switch was open , ordered on-line and received the part in rapid order. Installed, and all is well!I wrote a thank you to their customer service the next day.
purchased the thermal cut off kit. Installed it. Dryer still didn't work. The part was non-returnable since we installed it. Then purchased the heating element. Installed it and the dryer worked fine. Delivery time for the parts was superb !
replaced both heating element and Thermal cut-off kit...figured since I had it open I would change out both items. Works great!!
Used multimeter to check heating coil, it checked ok then checked thermal cut-off it checked open no current could get to coil.I checked all of the venting it was clean with no clogs and made sure the heating fan was working witch could cause dryer to over heat. The dryer is 16 years old and still runs great. DO ALL CHECKS WITH DRYER UNPLUGGED
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