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PartSelect Number PS334299
This clothes dryer thermal cut-off kit includes one high limit thermostat with a limit of 250 degrees Fahrenheit, and one thermal cut-off fuse (309 degrees). This kit also includes flat heaters with jumper wires.
This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
Remove backpanel, ohms cut off thermostat, no good, disconnet two wires from defective part and installed a new one.
Help other customers find the most helpful instructions.
Were these instructions helpful?
Unplugged Dryer.Removed back panel & dryer hose - About 10 screwsRemoved Heating element - two screwsFollowed instructions for replacing old thermal cut-off with new model (this was slightly different from original equipment - wiring modification was required) All connections were detailed in the instructions. Jumper wire and new screws included in Thermal Cut-Off kit.Cleaned lint and dust from inside dryer.Replaced back panel and dryer hose.Tested dryer, works like new.
I put in the new parts but it still did not work, Turned out the Thermal Fuse Blew,removed the two wires and clipped them together and the Dryer worked, have to replace the Thermal fuse and everything will be OK.
First I removed the back of the dryer. Then I used a multimeter to check the thermostsats and the one time use fuse. I found that the fuse had burnt out and one of the thermostats ha checked bad. I changed the fuse by removeing the one screw and lifting the fuse out. Replaced the fuse and reinstalled. I also made sure that the fan for the dyer and the lint trap area were clean. I also changed both of the thermostats while I had the dryer apart. Reassembled the dryer. Everything worked. NICE! No repair bills or buying a new unit.
Pulled the dryer out from the wall and laid it on its front on a blanket.Removed the back panel.Disconected the two switches and replaced them with the new ones.Cleaned up dryer replaced back panel and returmed the dryer to its original place and she works just fine.
I shorted the thermal cutout after removing the back.I then ordered the thermal Cut-Off Kit from PartSelect.While this was not my first order from them, I was still impressed with the ease and by how soon I received the part without any hassles or glitches. PartSelect will be my primary parts supplier from now on.
I read troubleshooting tips from other users of this website. This website had all the information I needed to accomplish the repair. I unplugged the dryer, then tipped it onto its front. I then used a nut driver to remove the dryer backing. After removing the dryer backing, I used the same nut driver to remove the heating element cover since it was the part I initially suspected. The same size nut driver worked on all the parts. Per recommendations I read on the site, the first thing I did was a continuity check on the heating element. It was good. After reviewing some input from this site, the next best step seemed to be replacing the Cycling Thermostat. I ordered and installed it, but it didn't fix the problem. The cool thing? PartSelect.com got me the part within a couple of days. So, I came back to PartsSelect.com and ordered the next two cheapest parts (ordered two parts at once to save on shipping and handling). The parts came within 4 days. I used the Thermal Cut-Off Kit in its entirety and the problem was fixed! THANK YOU PARTSSELECT. Here's an impact statement: The day after the dryer had stopped working, I called a repair shop. They told me that if they came out that day, the cost would be $85, plus parts, plus labor. I figured that would run around $140 - $150. Total for PartSelect.com? Around $60 (including shipping and handling) -- and I didn't even use all the parts I ordered.
I first unplugged the dryer and pulled it away from the wall. I had to remove the vent tubing to gain access to the rear of the unit, then removed the screws on the back panel of the dryer. I took off the panel and noticed that lint that had gathered over the years around the back of the dryer. I vacuumed it clean then proceeded to problem solve. I noticed four easily identifiable areas, the thermal cut-off switch and thermostat located by the heating coil and the thermostat and fuse near the venting area. I first checked the fuse with a ohm meter, it was okay. I removed each component one at a time and created a bypass with a alligator clip wire. Plugged the dryer back in to determine if heat was produced while testing each area one at a time. I determined that heat was produced after bypassing the thermal cut-off switch. I then ordered the thermal cut-off switch kit (arrived within 3 days) and installed it within 20 minutes. The longest time spent was trouble shooting, the removal and installation was very easy. By the way, I did use the ohm meter to check the resistance across the thermostats as indicated in previous postings, but I found the results and technique to be more confusing. A bypass worked the best for me and much more reliable. The heat started immediately. I highly recommend downloading the schematics of your unit for part number and location identification.
I removed all the screws to the back panel to gain access to the inside. checked all thermostats and fuses for conductivity (0.001 ohms) resistance. noticed the thermal cut off fuse (thermostat) was showing no conductivity (infinite ohms or OL). FYI the thermal cut-off kit I purchased included both the thermal cut-off fuse(why this is called fuse is a lie its actually a thermostat) and high limit thermostat. I'm seeing alot of users purchasing these seperate but it isn't neccessary. You might need some wire strippers with a crimper though to install everything.
Disconnected the power ,removed back.Removed the upper thermostat in the heat chamber and replaced. This is the last item to replace as per your recommended list on the trouble shooting page..Very happy to say that the dryer is heating again.See my previous posts,for the parts that I heve replaced.Thanks.
Replaced heating element, thermostats and fuse, cleaned dryer vent shafts and it is now working like when it was new.
The video was the key. I don't know if it is your site, but some site had step by step video instructions making a relatively easy job out of a complicated one.
all sensors/fuses were measuring open at room temperature with an ohmmeter.Called Whirlpool for drawing and install and got nothing.Found nice video on you tube.Unscrewed and replaced each device one by one.The terminal mod went exactly as portrayed.Owner pleased.
Initially I incorrectly diagnosed the problem... Make sure to test the continuity in all thermostats and heating element to identify which part is not working. Easiest way is to use a meter with an audible ohm continuity setting. Test the continuity on all thermostats/fuses, and element. If there is no continuity chances are that is it.Good luck!
The repair itself was easy however testing the components was not easy. I first just guessed and replaced the start switch. when that did not work I did some more research and bought a multimeter. I did not buy a meter that tested for continuity so I did more research and found that if I set it on ohms and if the meter went to 0 the component is good if it went to anything else the component is bad. Any way I bought the thermal fuse and the thermostat kit. the part for the fuse was correct but only 1 thermostat in the kit I bought was correct. as soon as I put the fuse in the dryer immiediately started.I know it is reccommended to replace the thermostat too even if it reads good because it could be going bad but I left the old one in because even after opening the door with the timer on the heating element would stay on with the new thermostat so I was aprehensive about leaving the new one in and took it out and put the old one back. well two days later the dryer would not start again. I have tested all of the thermostats and they are all good except the one so I replaced it with one I got in the kit and had to order a new thermal fuse. I am hopping that I will get it right this time. I am into this repair about 80 dollars 1 new start switch I did not need 10$. the thermostat kit 20$ and I only used 1 out of the 2 because the second one is not compatible. 2 thermal fuses now 20$ A multimeter 20$. plus shipping costs. I still feel like I have saved 75 to 100 dollars and now I know more about how to repair a dryer. I think that once I get the new fuse It will start. I hope this helps all of those out there trying to save a dollar. I recommend buying a multimeter that tests for continuity so that you can test all of the components with ease. It is hard to be sure about what you are testing and trust what yourself after reading the information on line. If I had to do this over again I would have just bought the 1 thermostat I needed and the fuse and trusted that I really needed to replace that stat because putting that dryer vent back on is going to worse than the repair. Good luck to all.
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