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PartSelect Number PS334299
The thermal cut off turns off the heating component when the dryer overheats, ensuring there is a consistent level of heat at all times. This dryer thermal cut-off kit includes one high-limit thermostat with a limit of 250 degrees Fahrenheit, and one thermal cut-off fuse (309 degrees). This kit also includes flat heaters with jumper wires. If your dryer is not starting properly, shutting off too soon or is taking too long to dry your clothes it could be because it has blown and needs to be replaced. This is a genuine OEM part that comes directly from the manufacturer.
This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
I first unplugged the dryer and pulled it away from the wall. I had to remove the vent tubing to gain access to the rear of the unit, then removed the screws on the back panel of the dryer. I took off the panel and noticed that lint that had gathered over the years around the back of the dryer. I vacuumed it clean then proceeded to problem solve. I noticed four easily identifiable areas, the thermal cut-off switch and thermostat located by the heating coil and the thermostat and fuse near the venting area. I first checked the fuse with a ohm meter, it was okay. I removed each component one at a time and created a bypass with a alligator clip wire. Plugged the dryer back in to determine if heat was produced while testing each area one at a time. I determined that heat was produced after bypassing the thermal cut-off switch. I then ordered the thermal cut-off switch kit (arrived within 3 days) and installed it within 20 minutes. The longest time spent was trouble shooting, the removal and installation was very easy. By the way, I did use the ohm meter to check the resistance across the thermostats as indicated in previous postings, but I found the results and technique to be more confusing. A bypass worked the best for me and much more reliable. The heat started immediately. I highly recommend downloading the schematics of your unit for part number and location identification.
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Disconnected the power ,removed back.Removed the upper thermostat in the heat chamber and replaced. This is the last item to replace as per your recommended list on the trouble shooting page..Very happy to say that the dryer is heating again.See my previous posts,for the parts that I heve replaced.Thanks.
The video was the key. I don't know if it is your site, but some site had step by step video instructions making a relatively easy job out of a complicated one.
all sensors/fuses were measuring open at room temperature with an ohmmeter.Called Whirlpool for drawing and install and got nothing.Found nice video on you tube.Unscrewed and replaced each device one by one.The terminal mod went exactly as portrayed.Owner pleased.
Initially I incorrectly diagnosed the problem... Make sure to test the continuity in all thermostats and heating element to identify which part is not working. Easiest way is to use a meter with an audible ohm continuity setting. Test the continuity on all thermostats/fuses, and element. If there is no continuity chances are that is it.Good luck!
The repair itself was easy however testing the components was not easy. I first just guessed and replaced the start switch. when that did not work I did some more research and bought a multimeter. I did not buy a meter that tested for continuity so I did more research and found that if I set it on ohms and if the meter went to 0 the component is good if it went to anything else the component is bad. Any way I bought the thermal fuse and the thermostat kit. the part for the fuse was correct but only 1 thermostat in the kit I bought was correct. as soon as I put the fuse in the dryer immiediately started.I know it is reccommended to replace the thermostat too even if it reads good because it could be going bad but I left the old one in because even after opening the door with the timer on the heating element would stay on with the new thermostat so I was aprehensive about leaving the new one in and took it out and put the old one back. well two days later the dryer would not start again. I have tested all of the thermostats and they are all good except the one so I replaced it with one I got in the kit and had to order a new thermal fuse. I am hopping that I will get it right this time. I am into this repair about 80 dollars 1 new start switch I did not need 10$. the thermostat kit 20$ and I only used 1 out of the 2 because the second one is not compatible. 2 thermal fuses now 20$ A multimeter 20$. plus shipping costs. I still feel like I have saved 75 to 100 dollars and now I know more about how to repair a dryer. I think that once I get the new fuse It will start. I hope this helps all of those out there trying to save a dollar. I recommend buying a multimeter that tests for continuity so that you can test all of the components with ease. It is hard to be sure about what you are testing and trust what yourself after reading the information on line. If I had to do this over again I would have just bought the 1 thermostat I needed and the fuse and trusted that I really needed to replace that stat because putting that dryer vent back on is going to worse than the repair. Good luck to all.
LOOKED UP DIAGRAM OF WIRING FOR THE MODEL I HAVE AND SAW THE THERMAL KIT. I ORDERED IT PLUS ANOTHER PART I DIDN'T NEED.Just followed instructions from the parts description....Ordered a cople other parts I did not need but will keep them for future use.
PartSelect website was hugely helpful. The diagram of the dryer was great. I determined my thermal cut-off switch was bad. The part was ordered and arrived in a couple days. It was very easy to change. If your thermal cut off is tripped, don't forget to clean your entire duct work, it is most likely blocked or restricted.
removed the back housing of the dryer and located the thermal switch. unscrewed the old one, popped in the new one and whala! I was back in business!put the back cover back on the dryer and pushed it back into place.
My original problem was due to a blocked/ broken vent tube, which lead to the failure of the thermal cutoff switch. It was super easy to diagnose using the instructions provided on this site (found an open circuit where it was supposed to be closed). The site helped my identify the correct part and the install was super easy.
I unhooked dryer and removed the back panel. then followed the directions for installation of the repair parts I ordered. It was pretty easy ,only two small thermostat type parts and about five or six wires.
first i removed the back cover by removing the six 1/4 inch screws then i removed the wires to the thermal switch there were three of them and using an ohm meter i checked each one for continuity until i found the one that had an open circuit. i removed the two 1/4 inch screws holding it in place and replaced it with the new one.
after replacing 3 different parts, the dryer would finally run at a total cost of approx. $80.00. This is still cheaper than a repairman coming to the house, as the service call is $79.99 plus parts & tax.
replaced heat elemant,and all thermastats in dryer....works great
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