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PartSelect Number PS334299
The thermal cut off turns off the heating component when the dryer overheats, ensuring there is a consistent level of heat at all times. This dryer thermal cut-off kit includes one high-limit thermostat with a limit of 250 degrees Fahrenheit, and one thermal cut-off fuse (309 degrees). This kit also includes flat heaters with jumper wires. If your dryer is not starting properly, shutting off too soon or is taking too long to dry your clothes it could be because it has blown and needs to be replaced. This is a genuine OEM part that comes directly from the manufacturer.
This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
first with the dryer unpluged ,i removed the wires from the upper thermal cut off ,then with a nut driver i removed it . replaced it with the new one and reattatched the two wires then the same on the bottom thermal . to replace the spring i removed the two screws pulled out the switch and spring at the same time ,removed the broken spring and replaced it onto the switch then placed it back into the dryer and replaced the screws.! everything worked like it han never been broke! my wife is verry happy!!!
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Were these instructions helpful?
Pulled back off dryer as in video and followed directions. One part in the kit was not necessary. Just replaced the fuse and put it all together again and Voila! Dryer works again.
Purchased new heating element and replaced. This was the number one recommendation for the fix for my problem. I do not have any measurement devices to check any of the parts. This was trial and elimination. The old element was badly burnt. Still no heat. The second recomendation was the thermal fuse. I purchased that and replaced. Still no heat. After reading through some of the repair forums on this site I decided to try one more time and replace the thermal cut off kit. A little harder to do because it required cutting and replacing some wire ends. That was the problem. We now have heat and once again I have a happy wife! I left the new element and the fuse in. The dryer heats much faster than it did. The repair videos on this site were very helpful. Some of the wire changes on the Thermal Cut-off Kit can be very confusing.
Pulled the dryer out from the wall and laid it on its front on a blanket.Removed the back panel.Disconected the two switches and replaced them with the new ones.Cleaned up dryer replaced back panel and returmed the dryer to its original place and she works just fine.
Remove backpanel, ohms cut off thermostat, no good, disconnet two wires from defective part and installed a new one.
Unplugged Dryer.Removed back panel & dryer hose - About 10 screwsRemoved Heating element - two screwsFollowed instructions for replacing old thermal cut-off with new model (this was slightly different from original equipment - wiring modification was required) All connections were detailed in the instructions. Jumper wire and new screws included in Thermal Cut-Off kit.Cleaned lint and dust from inside dryer.Replaced back panel and dryer hose.Tested dryer, works like new.
I removed all the screws to the back panel to gain access to the inside. checked all thermostats and fuses for conductivity (0.001 ohms) resistance. noticed the thermal cut off fuse (thermostat) was showing no conductivity (infinite ohms or OL). FYI the thermal cut-off kit I purchased included both the thermal cut-off fuse(why this is called fuse is a lie its actually a thermostat) and high limit thermostat. I'm seeing alot of users purchasing these seperate but it isn't neccessary. You might need some wire strippers with a crimper though to install everything.
First I removed the back of the dryer. Then I used a multimeter to check the thermostsats and the one time use fuse. I found that the fuse had burnt out and one of the thermostats ha checked bad. I changed the fuse by removeing the one screw and lifting the fuse out. Replaced the fuse and reinstalled. I also made sure that the fan for the dyer and the lint trap area were clean. I also changed both of the thermostats while I had the dryer apart. Reassembled the dryer. Everything worked. NICE! No repair bills or buying a new unit.
I highly recommend using a multi-meter to test for continuity on the thermistors and the heating element. It will likely save you a lot of time and you can replace the correct part the first time. I found the high limit thermostat to be open. Also note that if you find the same part open, it is most always caused by another part failure or the dryer vent to be clogged up with lint. I also cleaned out the lint chamber which was in pretty bad shape and likely caused my failure. But, the parts were not expensive and were replaced while I was doing the trouble shooting. The video is excellent and if followed all will turn out ok. This is my third different appliance repair, and the parts are always in stock, the standard shipping was 7 days, and everything you need is provided.
My first deduction is of course the element since its past its engineered time failure . Check with a digital ohm instrument every thing beep, the element, the cut off thermostat, the fuse etc. The only thing I did not check is the electronic dials . Like I suspect that relying on the digital beeps for shorts sometimes when the metal plates of the thermostat stop expanding and contracting due to calcification or something..it will still give you a beep. But when I use an analog ohm meter the reading is very minimal....So what I did was to order the thermostats both the cutoff and the thermal I also the fuse. The element does not show any break cause you can physically see it. Then Eureka ..the parts replaced and my wife is all smiles......plus saved a lot of buko mony..Thanks for the help
Looked on YouTube and found these guys. Followed their instructions and no problem.
I bought a new thermo cut off and replaced the old one.
Replaced heating element, thermostats and fuse, cleaned dryer vent shafts and it is now working like when it was new.
I shorted the thermal cutout after removing the back.I then ordered the thermal Cut-Off Kit from PartSelect.While this was not my first order from them, I was still impressed with the ease and by how soon I received the part without any hassles or glitches. PartSelect will be my primary parts supplier from now on.
I read troubleshooting tips from other users of this website. This website had all the information I needed to accomplish the repair. I unplugged the dryer, then tipped it onto its front. I then used a nut driver to remove the dryer backing. After removing the dryer backing, I used the same nut driver to remove the heating element cover since it was the part I initially suspected. The same size nut driver worked on all the parts. Per recommendations I read on the site, the first thing I did was a continuity check on the heating element. It was good. After reviewing some input from this site, the next best step seemed to be replacing the Cycling Thermostat. I ordered and installed it, but it didn't fix the problem. The cool thing? PartSelect.com got me the part within a couple of days. So, I came back to PartsSelect.com and ordered the next two cheapest parts (ordered two parts at once to save on shipping and handling). The parts came within 4 days. I used the Thermal Cut-Off Kit in its entirety and the problem was fixed! THANK YOU PARTSSELECT. Here's an impact statement: The day after the dryer had stopped working, I called a repair shop. They told me that if they came out that day, the cost would be $85, plus parts, plus labor. I figured that would run around $140 - $150. Total for PartSelect.com? Around $60 (including shipping and handling) -- and I didn't even use all the parts I ordered.
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