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PartSelect Number PS334278
This kit includes one high limit thermostat with a limit of 250 degrees Fahrenheit, and one thermal cut-off fuse with a limit of 360 degrees Fahrenheit. The thermostat and fuse help prevent the dryer from overheating.
This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
Initially we thought it might be the heating element so I used OHM meter to test that and it was fine so decided to check the thermal fuses. Removed one wire on fuse and tested with OHM meter and it confirmed replacement needed. As recommended on line I replaced both fuses. Parts took a little longer than I expected to arrive but once they came in I had dryer repaired and put back together in 15 minutes. Last service call to my house was roughly $90, parts I needed including shipping were $30 so I saved $60 but doing it myself.
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After removing the heating element I checked it for continuity and found it to be not functioning properly. So my first purchase was for the heating element. When this did not resolve the problem is when I checked the Thermal Cut Off Switch and found these switches to be malfunctioning after ordering the kit and installing it my dry now works very well so much so that my wife says it even works better than when we first purchased it.
When I decided to attempt repairs myself, I took the back panels off to look for obvious problems such as frayed or burned wires, contacts,fuses etc. When I did not see anything obvious, I started to look for stories/suggestions from other DIYers who might have had the same problem to see what they did. The PartSelect website not only had parts but also had numerous customer comments that where very helpful in my decision to buy the Thermal Cut-Off kit. Quite a few other people had the same problem - drum turns, but clothes don't dry. The kit came almost overnight! It was very simple to swap out the old parts and restore the dryer. It took about 45-60 minutes to take the back panels off, remove the dryer heating unit and check things out. Took about 15-30 minutes to replace thermal cut off parts and put dryer back together. It works great. In fact my wife thinks it is drying better now than it had been.
Used Ohm meter to determine which thermostat was dead, replaced it, and the dryer's working better than it has in years.
Unplugged dryer removed back replaced part put back on plugged in dryer yippee done!
Wasn't sure whether it was Thermostat or HEater Element - so bought both.Accessed all through the front panel on lower front of dryer using a flat tip screw driver to depress spring loaded locks. Removed and labeled wires from HE and Thermstats - wires were connected using the standard flat slide on clips. Removed unit with therms and HE connected to it (couple of screws attaching it to the bottom of dryer).Cleaned out all lint in the bottom of the dryer. Replaced the parts (noting the placement and location/order of element, then reversed the disassembly order to place the dryer back into operation. Prior to re-connecting the dryer to the outside vent - tried a test of the dryer to ensure hot air would be pushed out through vent by running the dryer for about three minutes.Everything worked smoothly - my 15 year old son actually did all of the work while I supervised :)
Tested for continuity. The installation video was very good but did not address which wires went to which terminals. Because of polarity, I was uncertain until an appliance repair man told me it didn't matter.
Initially I figured the dryer heating element had burned out. The exploded views on PartSelect helped me find other parts in the circuit that could also be bad. I unplugged the unit and removed the back cover. I ohmed out the element. It was around 10 ohms resistance. About right for 5600W at 240V. I checked continuity through the heater circuit and found the top thermal fuse to be open. I replaced the bad part. Put everything back together and put the dryer back into service.
It wound up being the design of the dryer vent out of the house, It went straight up 20 ft. Ran new vent. Works fine now.
This is actually a lesson. The reason the dryer was heating initially was a broken coil in the heating element - I replaced that and the high temp switch that attached the the heating element - replaced the service panel, re-connected the vent line, plugged the dryer back into the wall socket started it up it got hot I was happy little pat on the back. I picked my tools and the wife started working on washing laundry again. However the first load would get dry. I unplugged the dryer from the wall, removed teh vent line, removed the service panel tested my wire connects - checked continuity across the Thermal cut out (which was good during my initial troubleshooting) and it showed open. So once again I was hauling clothes to the laundry mat until the part came in. The lesson is I thought a could save a few bucks and not replace that switch - if the heating element goes out just order both switches with the element and save your self time - replace the switches while you have the dryer apart.
looked in the manual, it said if there was no heat but the dryer ran, it could be one of the 2 fuses. Found your site online and read some other people's stories. Ordered the thermal cut-off kit on a Sunday night and it was delivered on the following Tuesday night in a bad storm(fast). It took very little time and effort to replace them, and the dryer (22 yrs old) now works better than it has for a long time. This plan worked way better than I could have imagined.
Replaced the thermal Cut off
After opening dryer found lint everywhere inside the machine. Vacumming that out took the longest - A good fire hazard in the making - clean it. Had to take several other parts out to thoroughly clean. New parts were a breeze to put in and the reassembly took longer becasue of the cleanup. I was glad to have done it myself as I was amazed how much lint was all over the inside. Dryer was a bit different than the one on the Video but The parts diagrams were readily available to be able to identify the location of the parts replaced. The back panel of my dryer was welded on so the removal of the screws only caused the drum support to come loose - a pain to get back into place. The only thing I wouls have done differently is I would have printed the parts manual with all the locations for my specific machine first and then done the job.
After unplugging the dryer and pulling it out.I removed the front cover below the door by putting a screw driver between the clips and bottom of the door and pulled on the cover and it came loss. I then marked the wires on the heating element removed two screws to the bracket on the end and removed the heating element and tube all in one piece After removing the screw that holds the heating element to the tube i pulled it out and found the element had broken. i got on PartSelect put the model# in and there was my parts. I Ordered both the element and the thermal cut off kit because it seem to cheap insurance against buning up another element. I placed my order had it sent next day delivery and it arrived right at the time they said it would. Clean the underside of the dryer up. Installed everything back in reverse order. Pluged it back in and turned it on and it worked. One word of caution! Check your vent tube before reinstalling the dryer mine was stopped up and i believe thats what burned up the element.
I unplugged the dryer,removed all 9 1/4 inch screws to remove back panel,used an amp meter with sound to test various sensors, if the meter beeps the part is good, if it doesn't beep is bad. The upper Thermal sensor was bad,I looked up the part. I ordered the Thermal Cut Off Kit, I ordered it friday the part got here the next day, BEST SITE to order parts.I Removed and replaced the part, put the back panel back on and plugged the dryer back in. Bingo, my dryer works like new.:) Thank you. I paid $24 for the part versus the cost of a new dryer.
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