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PartSelect Number PS334278
This kit includes one high limit thermostat with a limit of 250 degrees Fahrenheit, and one thermal cut-off fuse with a limit of 360 degrees Fahrenheit. The thermostat and fuse help prevent the dryer from overheating.
This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
I removed the back panel and tested the Thermal Fuse, the Thermostat and the Heating Element with a meter. The Thermal Fuse gave a bad reading. I proceeded to clean the dryer and lint pipe of all lent. I installed the new Thermal Fuse and put the back panel back on the dryer. The dryer worked for two loads of clothes and the Thermal Fuse blow again. I'm now at the end of my rope. I don't know what else to check and I can't continue to buy parts for only two loads. I guess I will have to invest in a new dryer.
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Removed back cover and replaced parts was not sure what was bad so i replaced all have used it once since and it worked fine!!! It was really simple replacing parts. Have used Parts Select before and will again!!! thanks 70 dollars is better than buyin a new one right now!!!
i took off the back of the drier and with a screw driver removed the 2 screws and put the new part on
Unplug the machine. Take off back panel and remove heater assembly. Since I was already into the heating system, I replaced the heating element as well ($30). I replaced the old thermal cut off and overtemp, put the wires back on the connectors, reassembled, and the dryer works like it did when brand new! Within 30 minutes the repair was completed. Still saving for a new front loader washer/dryer, so the repair will hold us until we have enough to buy new. Alos, helped us to need to dry clothes on a clothes rack in the house. Good practice and lesson for the entire family!
the igniter worked so replaced the two coils on the burner, did not help, read the diagram that came with the machine and replace the high limit cut out. that did it, however the mounting bracket needed to be modified by grinding a tab off, so that the cut off switch would fit in to the bracket.
Turned off my circuit breaker first. Removed back panel with a 1/4 nut driver. Replaced the dryer fuse first. Very easy but did not fix the problem. Watched how to videos to narrow down the parts I might need. Purchased the thermal cut off kit. Installed the High limit thermostat first. Tested the dryer, no dice. Finally installed the Thermal cutoff. BAM!! I have heat. Since this is an older dryer I did need to use some WD40 to loosen some of the connections. Total cost of parts including tax and quick delivery was $48.30. Fantastic. My old man told me it was unfixable. He was wrong. I WIN. This site is a great teaching site. Thank you!
Replaced Thermal Cut-off kit and Heating Element
The big problem I had with this project is having the parts delivered after they were shipped from seller.Cut power off. Removed the rear access panel. Labeled wires for proper replacement. Removed wires from Thermal cut off fuses. Removed the lint screen. Removed 2 retaining screws from lint track. Raised top cover. Removed retaining bracket screw. Removed Heating Element Box. Removed one screw from bottom of heating element. Removed defective heating element. Installed new heating element using one screw on the bottom. Located element box back in position. Attached retaining bracket and screw in the top of element box. Closed top cover. Replaced lint track retaining screws. Reconnected all wires in proper locations. Replaced rear access screws. Return power to dryer. Turned dryer on and it instantly started blowing hot air out of the exhaust. Dryer is in service as of this time.
The repair was no problem. Just taking off the hex screws removing the crimp wire and replace the parts in the kit and the old dryer came back to life again.Thanks
After removing the exhaust pipe and clamp, I unscrewed the back panel with a 1/4 inch drive socket set. That exposed the wires and the wiring skematic. I used a multimeter to track the power to the element and found that no power was reaching the element. I then unplogged the unit removing all power and tested the resistance on each thermal fuse. The lower fuse had no resistance and the upper fuse did. I then disconnected the upper fuse, used a jumper wire the connect both wires together to bi-passed the fuse. I reconnected the power and turned on the dryer. The dryer element worked, confirming my suspicions of the bad fuse. Once I ordered the fuse and only paid for regular delivery I had the fuse with 24 hours and dryer back together within very little time. It took me more time to clean up the lint dust then it did to fix the problem.
It's a electric dryer, I knew it was related with the thermal !
Removed back cover and replaced thermal cutoff, installed new push on terminals. Bolted back on and dryer is working like new again.
Our dryer produced no heat. I thought that it was the electrical heating element because this part had failed a number of years ago. But when we received the heating element, and I opened up the back of the dryer to install it, I found that the element was OK. (Visual inspection as well as using an ohm meter.) I then ordered the thermal cut-off kit, (which was over a week in getting to us because Fed-Ex misdirected the shipment). Once the kit arrived it was very simple to remove the Allen-head screws on both parts, install the two new parts, reconnect the wires, replace the back panel on the dryer and hook up power and the dryer vent hose. The dryer works just fine.
Watched video and removed lower cover of dryer then removed and replaced the thermal cut-off .Dryer works great now.
I replaced the thermal cut-off kit. To do this I removed the heating coil assembly. After carefully inspection of the coil I determined it may not need to be replaced so I had this out then replaced the thermal cut off and put everything back. The dryer has been working for two weeks.
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