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PartSelect Number PS334230
This kit contains two door strikes, and various door catches to service dryer doors that have one or two catches.
This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
I removed the plastic latch using a screw driver to pry it out. I had to use pliers to completely remove it. Then I snapped the new piece in. It worked perfectly the first time. Very easy repair.
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First I removed the nuts from to get the back of the dryer off (I think there were 8 or so). Then I removed the cycling thermostat (careful to watch were the wires were), I ten installed the new one. I then did the same with the thermal cut-off and the heating element. The door catch kit wasn't what I needed so I didn't install it. If I would have known it was going to be so easy I would have done this repair months ago!!!
Super easy repair. Funny to think I almost called to have it serviced before I found the Door Catch Kit. The original catch had actually fell into the door so when I got the new part it simply snapped in no tools needed!
removed the broken part and replaced with the new one
In a matter of moments the dryer that I had grown to despise was back on my good list! I took a pair of pliers and removed the old parts, then inserted the new catch kit. I only about 5 minutes to do AND I love my dryer again!
The latch for my Kenmore dryer was only $10 with shipping and just what Ineeded. No instructions included, so I googled installation and it was fixedin less than 3 minutes... YEAH... I am happy!
take the old latch out and pop the new one in. Your repair kit worked perfect.
Repair was straight forward with only two screws to undo. Popped the two sides in and I was done. What was amazing was the lowest cost on parts and the timely delivery.
I pulled the old latch out of the catch and installed a new one. It just popped into place. The job could not have been easier.
I removed the old door catch by using a screwdriver to pry it out, then I popped the new door catch in its place and it snapped right in. It took less than 5 minutes to do the whole job.
I watched the videos that were provided by Part Select and fixed both items very easily and quickly
ordered new latch kit and repaired, very easy thank you
Took 5 seconds, just snapped in the slot, didn't need any tools.
Snapped latch into existing hole in 2 seconds. The pin that goes into latch was still intact. That's it ,real simple. The only problem I will hopefully not have in the future is the the mico-switch which is just hanging in there, the switch works but the lever that extends out from the face, that works with the door is partially broken off and the switch is no longer available on your parts list. The appliance is twenty-one years old. I am very happy with your service and I received the parts the next day, after I ordered them and I will be buying more parts in the months to come. This time it will be for my Kenmore gas stove and then a Kenmore refrigerator door hinge.
Dryer was making a thump-thump sound as it turned and door had to be held shut with a prop rod or it would pop open all the time.First I reviewed the exploded diagrams of my model on the PartSelect website. I kept referring to it as I went.Two screws held the console down, I removed those and disconnected all the wiring to the console and set the console aside. I popped the top from the front after removing the ground wire that the console had hidden. Oops ... forgot the screws holding the filter enclosure to the top panel. I removed them, then the top came off of the rear hinge-like things.I turned the drum by hand and confirmed that it was "thump-thumping". There were two internal screws that held the front panel and door to the side panels, I removed them and then the front panel/door assembly buckled away from the drum slightly. I had to disconnect the wires from the door switch and remove the wire retainer from the front panel.The front panel/door lifted slightly and came off of retainers to the side panels near the floor. The drum was now suspended on the two rollers, belt tensioner pulley, and motor pulley. I removed the belt from the tensioner and motor and removed the drum.I could see that one of my drum support wheels had a chunk melted or gashed out of it. Every time the divoted portion contacted the drum, it made a thump. I also noticed all the stuff that the kids had dumped in the dryer by lifting the front of the top panel, thinking it was a good hiding spot. The stuff included crayons, beads, assorted spare change, and a package of peanuts that had broken open.I took this opportunity to vacuum out the interior of the dryer. Wow.One of drum support roller axles has a front support. Both are bolted into the interior panel with a washer and nut. I wanted to remove both axles to replace the support wheels, so I crawled behind my dryer (by climbing over my washing machine).I had to remove the flexible vent and the rear panel cover to access the roller axle nuts. But one of the axle nuts was covered by the dryer filter enclosure, so I had to take it loose. Boy am I glad that I did. It was chock full of caked together lint and more crud that the kids had shoved down the filter hole when the filter wasn't in place. I cleaned it and removed the axle nuts.I had to remove and replace these funky little plastic triangles that acted as retainers for the drum support wheels. It was difficult and I eventually had to use pliers to help. I swapped drum support wheels, installed the new plastic triangles and reinstalled the axles, filter enclosure, back panel, and flexible duct (this involved all sorts of tools and several trips back and forth over my washing machine).I installed the drum, making sure the felt was not bent the wrong way and that the drum support wheels were in the drum groove. To rethread the drum belt I had to lay on the ground and hold the drum in position with my foot while guiding the belt with two hands. Once the belt was properly threaded, the drum would dangle in position, but I used the prop rod to support if firmly while I worked on the front panel.The front panel was in sorry shape. I replaced both hinges, cleaned the area between the door and the front panel that cannot be reached easily, and replaced the door support wires and guides, reattaching their springs. I also replaced the door retention hardware. (Note: pliers recommended by my poor cut fingers).I installed the front panel to the side panels by sliding it onto the two lower supports while holding the drum in position. I reconnected the door switch and wire retainers. I screwed the upper screws from the side panels to the front panel.I popped the top panel back in place, routing the wiring through and reconnecting the grounds. I rewired the console and slid it back into position. I screwed down the console and reattached the filter enclosure to the top panel.I plugged it in, turned it o
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