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PartSelect Number PS334180
This silicone carbide igniter with ceramic holder kit includes the 3" flat igniter, bracket, 5" wire leads, and the plug. Able to replace both round and flat igniters, this kit is used for many gas clothes dryers.
This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
After opening the bottom access panel, I found a lot of lint build up which is very flammable. I took my leaf blower and cleaned it all out. Then I just followed the instructions that came with the part. But be careful as the igniter is fragile. I broke the first one...
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Checked fuse with Volmeter, had continuity (acted as a short) not the problem. Disconnected Hot Surface Igniter 2 Position connector to check resistance for a range of 50-300 Ohms of resistance with Voltohm Meter. Meter read open (High Resistance). Removed Igniter by unscrewing 5/16" hex nut on igniter plate assembly and noticed silicon carbide element was cracked in the middle. Ordered a new igniter and noticed assembly was required. Be careful here as igniter element is fragile, also do not touch it with your bare hands. You have to lay down on floor to reinstall igniter assembly and you might want to practice anchoring the defective igniter to gain confidence. Finally with slow movements anchored new igniter assembly and turned on dryer. Watched igniter glow heating gas valve and heating gas flame returned. Dryer fixed for a few hours of study online and cost only $24, plus learned how the gas dryer works.
I ended up taking the entire dryer apart when I didn't need to, and it turns out it wasn't the Igniter Kit in the first place but the thermal fuse in the back. Was pretty simple to repair in any case however.
Unplug the dryer first. The igniter was located behind the front panel. On My gas dryer I had to remove 2 screws locacted by the lint screen to lift the top up then 2 screws were removed to lift and remove front panel. Note carefully disconect safety switch wire connecter first. After that there is 1 wire connecter and 2 screws to remove and replace ignitor. Note My ignitor was not bad just old. The thermal fuse on this model requires a little work to replace it. The back panel has to be removed. At least 9 screws hold it on and the vent hose is attached inside of the panel with a hose clamp. Once all that is clear all that remains is to unplug wires and remove 1 screw to replace thermal fuse. Note fuse failed because of lint droping from lint screen to the fan then geting stuck on the fuse screw to overheat and burn out fuse. I vacumed out all lint and dust front to back and also removed the fan cover to clean fan out There was alot of lint packed behind the cover. Then carefully assemble the fan cover - vent tube and back cover. Note this dryer has run for 16 years with no cleaning at all other than lint screen after drying clothes and no other problems so far.
It was very simple, I followed the instructions from your video. It also gave me the opportunity to vac out the unit which had not been done for some time. I plan on changing the igniter at a future date, making things new in that area. To be able to do it myself saved me a lot of money.
Symptoms: No heat from clothes dryer. It would run continuously, and the dryer burner would not light. A little reading and I found out the timer doesn't start until heat is detected. That's why it will run forever without heat.Ordered a Thermal Fuse, Cycling Thermostat, and Igniter Kit. Turns out it was the thermal fuse. Confirmed with my multimeter continuity check. No idea why it went, it was only 13 years old. No clogs in dyer vent but cleaned it to be sure. Possibly the thermostat was going a bit high over time, so I replaced it too. Only need to remove the back panel to replace these. Dryer works great now. 1 week later the washer broke, so I'll be ordering more parts.
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