333104-1-S-Whirlpool-230131            -Door Cable
333104-1-S-Whirlpool-230131            -Door Cable 333104-2-S-Whirlpool-230131            -Door Cable 333104-3-S-Whirlpool-230131            -Door Cable http://www.partselect.com/Schematics/Whirlpool/Whirlpool_Thumb/6QLYC5ZY.gif

Door Cable

PartSelect Number PS333104

This dryer door cable is intended for use with spring part number PS343422. This cable is compatible with many of Whirlpool/Kenmore's brands of gas and electric clothes dryers.

This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.

This part fixes the following symptoms:

  • Door won’t close.
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Installation Instructions Provided by PartSelect customers like you.

Average Repair Rating: 2.9 / 5.0, 5 reviews What's this?
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20 of 25 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used

  • Door Cable

Level of DifficultyEasy

Time to do repair:30 - 60 mins

ToolsNutdriver, Screw drivers

CustomerGeorge from Rochester Hills, MI

Dryer door cable broken

1. Remove the lint filter. Then remove 2 screws at the lint filter housing.

2. At the back of the dryer, remove 2 screws that restrain the hinges for the dryer top. Do NOT remove the hinges.

3. Remove the front lower access panel. It snaps at the top and hinges at the bottom. It can be slipped off the hinges.

4. Remove 2 screws at the bottom of the main front panel

5. The front of the dryer top is held in place by two plastic clips. Use a flat blade screwdriver (with a rag wrapped around the tip to minimize paint damage) to pry the top up at each front corner. Then tilt the top up to just past vertical. You now can see the top of the spring that is connected to the door cable.

6. Open the dryer door. Use a putty knife to pry up the plastic plug that holds the cable in place at the door. Remove the old cable from the door and insert the new one. Be sure the cable end without a hole goes into the dryer door. Replace the plastic plug.

7. Feed the new cable through the main front panel and close the door.

8. Loosen but do NOT remove two screws that hold the main front panel to each side panel. Tilt the bottom of the front panel out about 2 inches.

9. Working through the gap between the main front panel and the side, hook the spring into the hole in the cable end.

10. Working through the open top and the gap on the side, move the spring+cable up to the top. Pass the upper end of the spring through the rectangular hole in the top of the main front panel and hook the end into the small hole there.

11. Repeat for other cable as needed.

12. Reassemble all parts. You may need to hold the top of the drum up as you move the main front panel back into place. Install the main front panel lower screws before tightening the upper screws.

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11 of 17 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used

  • Door Cable

Level of DifficultyEasy

Time to do repair:Less than 15 mins

ToolsScrew drivers


Door cables broke

Removed the screws holding the dryer door together and pushed the plastic pin out that the cable end went through. removed the screws at the dryer filter then popped up the top. put the cable through the door and then reached down with the door spring and went through the hole in the cable end, fastened the spring and pushed back down the top and replaced all screws. job complete. the hardest part was getting the spring through the small hole on the cable end but with a little patience and persistance it was accomplished.

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7 of 11 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used

Level of DifficultyEasy

Time to do repair:15 - 30 mins

ToolsScrew drivers

CustomerRandall from Johnstown, PA

The dryer door was broken down, dryer would not come one

I pried up the lid, and removed two screws from the lint trap door.
Removed to screws that held top front of dryer. One on each side near top.

Cables replaced easily, popped plastic retainer from door, inserted cable and connect to spring.

Removed two screws that held the door switc on. Replaced with new switch and pushed wire clips onto new switch.

Things went back together just as they came off.

When I pulled the dryer front away, the tumbler (tub?) pulls out and drops down an inch or so. When putthing it back together , I had to life the tub up to fit into front again.

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6 of 11 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used

Level of DifficultyEasy

Time to do repair:30 - 60 mins

ToolsScrew drivers

CustomerJohn from Oxford, OH

Door cable and spring broke.

I looked up my paperwork on the dryer and found out how to remove the proper panel to get to the inside of the door. (I was able to find the manual on the internet also).

I cleaned all the dust while I was inside. The actual repair of the broken parts took about 5 minutes.

Parts received were exactly like the broken ones.

Thanks Parts Select. Saved me $139.00


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45 of 231 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used

Level of DifficultyA Bit Difficult

Time to do repair:More than 2 hours

ToolsNutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set

CustomerJohn from Plymouth, MI

Ravages of time and 7 children.

Dryer was making a thump-thump sound as it turned and door had to be held shut with a prop rod or it would pop open all the time.

First I reviewed the exploded diagrams of my model on the PartSelect website. I kept referring to it as I went.

Two screws held the console down, I removed those and disconnected all the wiring to the console and set the console aside. I popped the top from the front after removing the ground wire that the console had hidden. Oops ... forgot the screws holding the filter enclosure to the top panel. I removed them, then the top came off of the rear hinge-like things.

I turned the drum by hand and confirmed that it was "thump-thumping". There were two internal screws that held the front panel and door to the side panels, I removed them and then the front panel/door assembly buckled away from the drum slightly. I had to disconnect the wires from the door switch and remove the wire retainer from the front panel.

The front panel/door lifted slightly and came off of retainers to the side panels near the floor. The drum was now suspended on the two rollers, belt tensioner pulley, and motor pulley. I removed the belt from the tensioner and motor and removed the drum.

I could see that one of my drum support wheels had a chunk melted or gashed out of it. Every time the divoted portion contacted the drum, it made a thump. I also noticed all the stuff that the kids had dumped in the dryer by lifting the front of the top panel, thinking it was a good hiding spot. The stuff included crayons, beads, assorted spare change, and a package of peanuts that had broken open.

I took this opportunity to vacuum out the interior of the dryer. Wow.

One of drum support roller axles has a front support. Both are bolted into the interior panel with a washer and nut. I wanted to remove both axles to replace the support wheels, so I crawled behind my dryer (by climbing over my washing machine).

I had to remove the flexible vent and the rear panel cover to access the roller axle nuts. But one of the axle nuts was covered by the dryer filter enclosure, so I had to take it loose. Boy am I glad that I did. It was chock full of caked together lint and more crud that the kids had shoved down the filter hole when the filter wasn't in place. I cleaned it and removed the axle nuts.

I had to remove and replace these funky little plastic triangles that acted as retainers for the drum support wheels. It was difficult and I eventually had to use pliers to help. I swapped drum support wheels, installed the new plastic triangles and reinstalled the axles, filter enclosure, back panel, and flexible duct (this involved all sorts of tools and several trips back and forth over my washing machine).

I installed the drum, making sure the felt was not bent the wrong way and that the drum support wheels were in the drum groove. To rethread the drum belt I had to lay on the ground and hold the drum in position with my foot while guiding the belt with two hands. Once the belt was properly threaded, the drum would dangle in position, but I used the prop rod to support if firmly while I worked on the front panel.

The front panel was in sorry shape. I replaced both hinges, cleaned the area between the door and the front panel that cannot be reached easily, and replaced the door support wires and guides, reattaching their springs. I also replaced the door retention hardware. (Note: pliers recommended by my poor cut fingers).

I installed the front panel to the side panels by sliding it onto the two lower supports while holding the drum in position. I reconnected the door switch and wire retainers. I screwed the upper screws from the side panels to the front panel.

I popped the top panel back in place, routing the wiring through and reconnecting the grounds. I rewired the console and slid it back into position. I screwed down the console and reattached the filter enclosure to the top panel.

I plugged it in, turned it o

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