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PartSelect Number PS299643
This water tube is sized at approximately 1/4".
This part works with the following brands: GE, Hotpoint & Kenmore.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
The actual repair was a snap. However, be sure you check to make sure all of the parts are there. The two electrical adapter/connectors were missing from the water valve package, so I could not complete the job until a new valve could be shipped. The two adapters are essential to proper operation of the water valve. New ones arrived in 3 days.DISASSEMBLY:1. Unplug the refrigerator.2. Shut off the water supply to the icemaker.3. Remove the screws holding the cardboard cover onto the lower back side of the refrigerator, using a nut driver.4. Disconnect the water supply line from the top of the water valve.5. Remove the screw holding the water valve bracket onto the back of the refrigerator.6. Unscrew the two water feed tubes from the water valve (one goes to the icemaker and one to the cold water dispenser).7. Pull the two electrical connectors straight out of the back of the water valve. They are color-coded, but it won't hurt to label them with a small piece of masking tape.NOTE:Since I wanted this to be fixed and to not have to deal with it for years to come, I also replaced the plastic tubing running up the back of the refrigerator, the grommet that goes through the back of the refrigerator into the freezer compartment, and the water tube the pours water into the icemaker's tray - and it was well worth the few extra dollars and 10 extra minutes of work. To do this part:1. Inside the freezer section, loosen the two screws holding the icemaker to the back of the freezer (you do not need to remove the screws, but it won't hurt anything if you do remove them).2. Slide the icemaker upward until it clears the two screws enough that you can set the icemaker out of the way.3. Grasp the 1/2-inch plastic tube that points toward the front of the freezer and pull it toward you until it comes out.4. At the back of the refrigerator, pull out the plastic grommet that held the tube you just removed, near the top of the refrigerator.5. Remove the thin water tube that runs from the water valve up the back of the refrigerator to the grommet.ASSEMBLY:1. Basically, reverse the order of disassembly.CONCLUSION:It took longer to type the instructions than it would have taken to do the job. If only the elctrical connectors had been there the first time.
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Plastic lines to ice maker and water dispenser cracked from heat. Replaced Icemaker line by removeing 2 screws holding Icemaker then two more holding icemaker mount, Pulled large plastic tube that water runs down. From back of unit removed grommet that goes thru refrigerator back, then bent open clamp and pulled out 1/4 " line. Reversed process to install. After doing this I believe it could all be done from the back with out removing the icemaker. Just pry open the clamp on the grommet and pull the 1/4" icemaker line out of the grommet. The water supply tube was a a little challenge. The 5/16 tube comes thru at the bottom of the fridge under the meat bin. Remove the meat bin and the next bin up to gain access. I cut the tube off with a side cutters about 1/2 of the way between the floor of the fridge and the water tank. Then I took the new line and attached the old line to the new line with a bolt of the correct od with the head cut off so I could tie the two lines together. Then I pulled the old line out from the back of the fridge while pushing the new line in. Attached the line from the tank to the new line with the Water tube union then cut the line off in the back and installed a new Dual inlet valve and the icemaker, drinking water line and supply line to it. Let it sit over night making ice and made sure no leaks before pushing back.
This repair was done on a 13 year old fridge. Within the last several years I had to replace the Incoming Water Line twice, the line from the Inlet Water Valve to the Dispenser Water Reservoir, and this time the Icemaker Water line. These were all due to the plastic tubing hardening and becoming brittle from the heat of the compressor.For this repair, I not only replaced the cracked Icemaker Line, I replaced the Incoming Water Line with copper, and replaced the Dispenser Water Reservoir. If you have a leak in one of the plastic water lines around the Valve Assembly, I recommend you do the same.The Icemaker Water Line instructions from Stephen from Raleigh was very helful and complete.I found Scot from Fort Collin's instructions on replacing the Reservoir very helpful too. Although I found his comment that one line was too short, to not be the case. In fact I had to trim both lines because they were too long.Scott from South Lake Tahoe's suggestion to use the old Reservoir Lines to fish the new ones is good. I used duct tape to attach them together instead of drip irrigation fittings, and it worked fine. It helps to have somebody at the back of the fridge to pull the line while you push it from inside the fridge.The line to the door connection can be accessed by removing the grill at the bottom of the front of the fridge.Pretty easy repair. Thanks to the other contributors for the help!
The problem is the common issue that the proximity of the plastic water lines that leave the electrically controlled valve near the compressor in the bottom back corner of the fridge, means they become brittle and crack/break. Both the line leaving to the ice-maker that runs diagonally across the outside back of the fridge, and the line that runs under the fridge to feed the water dispenser failed at the valve, breaking off just where they start at the valve.The result was I noticed a big puddle coming out from under the fridge (too late for the poor wood floor).The solution, replace the parts. For the ice maker line, it is one thin line - its easy to replace other than taking care to uncrimp and recrimp the connection up at the entry to the freezer.For the thicker tube, the one that goes to the water dispenser, you replace the reservoir tank that sits inside the fridge. It has the two lines leaving it permanently attached to the tank, hence you replace the whole thing. There are separate lines and a splice/union that can be used to replace just the last 6 inches near the compressor, but I chose to replace the whole unit. This describes replacing that water chill tank unit.The tank sits behind the bottom 2 drawers in the fridge.. you see it when you pull out the drawers. It has two lines permanently attached, one runs out of one hole in the bottom of the fridge and to the back of the fridge where it attaches to the exit on the electrical valve. The other runs out of the other hole in the bottom of the fridge and runs along the side, then along the front from the fridge to the freezer side. There is a union that connects that line to another line that then runs up the freezer door. Remove the front cover under the fridge to see this line and the union.To replace the tank, you have to disconnect it from both ends, where its held in by plastic nuts/unions. Water remaining in the lines will drain out when you disconnect them. I unscrewed the valve assembly from the fridge body and then unplugged the plugs to the valves to do the work (but left the fridge plugged in).To do this work, I needed to raise the fridge side edge of the appliance, since the hoses route along the underside of the fridge. After you disconnect the two ends (at the union on the freezer side bottom front egdge, and back side at the valve) you can pull the hoses up into the fridge. Routing the new hoses will require you have at least that one side off the floor to get your hands under it. I got two 6" tall 4x4 wood blocks and tipped the fridge slightly, raising the right (fridge) side off the ground and slid the blocks under the fridge rollers.To remove the tank, before you raise the edge of the fridge, there are two screws that you need to remove (top side and left side) from the storage tank. I recommend that in addition to removing the bottom two drawers, you remove all the bins hanging in the fridge door, since you need to work in there with gravity wanting to shut the door on you. Once you have the tank unscrewed (and the hose ends disconnected) note which hose(based on where it connects to the tank) goes to which hole in the bottom of the fridge. Pull up the hoses from the inside the fridge. The tank is free..go put it in the sink and drain the water out. Installing the new tank, remove any hose end caps and route the hoses back through the lower drawer support frame you pulled them out of, and feed the correct hoses back through the holes in the bottom of the fridge. I found it better to feed the longer one first, which leads to the water dispenser/front. I could then pull that one up front from under the raised fridge and clip it in place and then route the other hose fully though its hole and route it to the back of the fridge to the valve. This way I ensured I was sending the right hose to the right destination. You will likely have to trim the hoses once the tank is reattached as they are slightly long. Be sure
It was very simple. From turning off the water and draining the line to unscrewing the controller, disconnecting the line and etc. Putting everything back together was easy as well. Most of my time was spent cleaning below the frig and back.The only thing I wish I purchased a new hose clamp.
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