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PartSelect Number PS299116
This part works with the following brands: GE, Hotpoint & Kenmore.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
Water line, 1/4" to 1/4"
First of all, the larger white plastic tubes in this thing are 5/16" OD, which no plumbing store seems to stock. At the lower left rear end there are 2 tubes, one for water and one for ice, that are doomed to fail being in proximity of a heat source - they essentially get cooked to the point of becoming brittle and cracking. The smaller tube and union can be easily found, but do yourself a favor if the larger one cracks and order the plastic tube and water tube union here, and just cut off the brittle part and amend the old tube using the union.
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Plastic lines to ice maker and water dispenser cracked from heat. Replaced Icemaker line by removeing 2 screws holding Icemaker then two more holding icemaker mount, Pulled large plastic tube that water runs down. From back of unit removed grommet that goes thru refrigerator back, then bent open clamp and pulled out 1/4 " line. Reversed process to install. After doing this I believe it could all be done from the back with out removing the icemaker. Just pry open the clamp on the grommet and pull the 1/4" icemaker line out of the grommet. The water supply tube was a a little challenge. The 5/16 tube comes thru at the bottom of the fridge under the meat bin. Remove the meat bin and the next bin up to gain access. I cut the tube off with a side cutters about 1/2 of the way between the floor of the fridge and the water tank. Then I took the new line and attached the old line to the new line with a bolt of the correct od with the head cut off so I could tie the two lines together. Then I pulled the old line out from the back of the fridge while pushing the new line in. Attached the line from the tank to the new line with the Water tube union then cut the line off in the back and installed a new Dual inlet valve and the icemaker, drinking water line and supply line to it. Let it sit over night making ice and made sure no leaks before pushing back.
This problem had already occurred in 2008. Repairman replaced dual water valve. Cost $190.00. We decided to do it ourselves this time. The repairs were actually made in three phases. First, when I pulled the fridge out from the wall, unplugged it, and turned the water valve back on I discovered that the plastic tubing from water supply into the fridge had long cracks in it and water was spraying out everywhere. I turned water off, went to Lowe's and bought the kit for that repair. Of course I didn't have to use all of the parts in the kit because the water supply was already there from the valve that came up through the floor. After turning the water back on and plugging the fridge back in, my husband and I tested it by trying the water dispenser. We found that water was leaking from somewhere inside the fridge, but didn't know where. After UNPLUGGING it, and turning the water off again, I took the metal back off at the bottom. It was leaking from the bigger plastic tubing (5/16"). It was just hanging, not connected into the dual water valve. Figured it had just broken. So I thought I just needed 5/16" tubing. I went on the GE website and it was very hard to get answers to my problem because I couldn't find the plastic tubing that it looked like. I ended up ordering the plastic tubing that goes up that back of the fridge to the icemaker. They sent me two of those, not one for the freezer and the bigger clear one (5/16") that I thought I needed. Then, I found this website! This PartSelect website is great!! After reading about other consumer repairs, I knew how to disconnect the dual water valve and found out that the smaller plastic tubing that goes up the back of the fridge to the icemaker had been pinched where it connects to the dual water value, barley hanging on. Just quick disconnected it from the valve by pushing up on the outside where the tubing comes out while pulling on the tubing. It came out, and I had to use needle nose pliers to pull some of it out where it had broken off inside. Then, pushed the new tubing into the valve and ran it up the back of the fridge, unscrewed the plate that goes over the clamp that holds the tubing, loosened the clamp a little, pulled the old tubing out, pushed the new tubing in, (the clamp was still tight enough) put the metal plate back on and replaced the screws. Then I re-connected the dual water valve to the electric clips, connected the 5/16" tubing to the right side of the valve. (The black tubing that goes up the back of the fridge goes into the left side of the valve.) put it back into place and screwed it back against the body of the fridge where it goes, put the back on and plugged it back in. We tested it again, and water was leaking, but not from where I made my first repair. I reversed everything again, and discovered that where the 5/16" tubing goes into the dual water value, it seemed more loose than it should have been. That is where the water was leaking from! I ordered the dual water valve, the 5/16" plastic tubing and the water tube union. I replaced the dual water valve-very easy! MAKE SURE YOU UNPLUG THE FRIDGE, turn the water supply off, disconnect the small tubing from the dual water valve, disconnect the electric connections to the valve, and reverse the process. What I did was replace the 5/16" tubing the comes out of valve & goes up into the storage tank behind crisper drawer. Used union there. Put everything back together and it works!!
bought an push in, in line connector and a new 5/16 plastic hose. I just replaces 2 feet of plastic hose from the selonid up an splices the hose using the connector. Worked perfect.
Plastic water line gets brittle from compersor heat over time and eventually brakes. I tried to fix with 5/16 line from a locel hardware store but outter diameter was slightly smaller so connection to valve leaked. This OEM part fit perfect. I cut the line beyond the brake and connected it with the tube union part, Easy fix. Everything works fine with no leaks
What can I tell you to help except if the 75+ year old Grandma can do it you can do it also. This site was great and the shipping was super fast.Have put up with an ice maker that never automatically quit making ice for over a year. I just manually shut it off (remembered some of the time and was reminded by the error messages when overflowing at other times). I just didn't want to pay for a service call and all that involves for this item. Then the incoming waterline split and I had to make a decision and that was to DIY the repair after reading the info on this site. The ice maker was a breeze and you can read the details in other posts. Here I will say it takes removing two screws to loosen (mine wouldn't slip off unless screws were totally removed), (I shut off the water and unplugged refrigerator since I am neither an electrician nor an appliance repairman) unplugging the ice maker by removing one hex head, removing the control cover (bottom to top as described in other posts), remove 3 screws only in the metal plate that holds the inside of the ice maker together to get access to the "brains", replaced the Cam, reverse to reassemble (remembering to get the arm back into it's hole in the metal plate. End of that job. After reading posts about the the water line tubing, I made sure that I had all of the parts of the correct size to replace all of the tubing that passes by the compressor. I did not, however, replace the full length of any of the tubing. I cut off the bad sections of the 1/4" to the middle of the back of the refrigerator and connected a new section with the 1/4" x 1/4" water tube unions.(I was able to buy 1/4" water line, 5/16" water line and 1/4" x 1/4" water tube unions locally but I could not find 5/16" x 5/16" water tube unions so I ordered them from PartSelect at the same time as I ordered the ice maker cam.) Then I went to the inside of the refrigerator removed the cover from the water reservoir (behind the hydrator), cut out the old section of the water dispenser lines that pass by the compressor, threaded in (not as easy as the outside tubes but not difficult either) the new tubing and connected with the 5/16" x 5/16" water tube unions. You will get lots more details in other posts but this is to tell you that you CAN DO IT with help from this site! I fixed it all for less than $20 (versus cost of new refrigerator, or new ice maker, or service call).
Disregard previous.1. Turn off water supply.2. Unplug power cord.3. Remove bottom Panel to access the Solenoid valve.4. Remove the water lines from the Valve.5. Remove the Valve from the refrigerator.6. Remove the electrical connectors from the valve.(make sure the new valve has the connector adaptors included) you will need them during installation.7.Bend the new valve bracket inward about 45 degrees to clear the compressor coolant line.8.Use a pair of pliers to braek away the plastic on the new valve for clearance.9.If needed remove the compression fitings from the old water line installation as the new valve comes with the push and lock feature.10.Install the bottom 2 water lines they are different sizes11.Mount the new valve to refrigerator and tighten.12.Install the ice maker water line to the top fitting on the valve.13.Plug the power cord in & turn on the water supply,check for leaks and proper operation on the valve.
Tube was too short so I used the union to attach additional tubing to reach the valve at the lower rear of refrigerator
Pulled new tubing to the tank and put a union about 8 inches down from tank to new tubing. Great repair. Parts not readily available locally.
There is no access to the inside of the door to replace the water line. I was able to insert a 1/4" drip line barbed connector into the old line at the base of the door and then connect that to a piece of the plastic tubing which I then connected back to the original water supply tubing with the 5/16" union. It took three attempts to get the tubing through the bottom hinge without a crimp in it. It's best to have a second person to hold the door while you "fish" the tubing through the hinge.
Cut out cracked tubing between valve and where tubing enters into refrigerator. Cut new tubing to length and attach to existing using union.
Unplugged unit. Removed back cover plate. Used 5/16 water line. Cut old broken line. Used water tube union and attached new line. Removed electrical contacts. Note very easy removeand replace the red and white hookups. Next remove water line at the old vale with1/2 wrench. Hook up water line to new valve. Icemaker line was not damaged so I removed from old valve and trimmed the end. Really installed line to valve. Plugged in fridge and turned water supply back on. Check for leaks. Had trouble locatingthe 5/16 water line but found bulk. PARTS SELECT had the guest connector and the replacement valve. I received the correct parts and saved me $$$$. Plus my wife happy right before the holidays! !!,
replacing the lines was easy, problem was the drawing on line and the parts list did not show two different size tubing used. had to run out for the 5/16 inche tubing for the water dispenser in the door. got the 1/4 inch tube done in 5 minutes.
Turned water supply off; pressed dispenser sw to release presure ; cut tubing holding reservoir ; nuit driver to release screw holding reservoir and pulled out ; took outside and used hose nozzle to try to clear; did not clear at first then took weedeater string and disloged something and water flowed freely; turned out had to change waer solenoid valve (both) as the one for the water dispener was also plugged which did not show up before. P.S. Had back flow water thru system before and changes of parts. Water flowed freely.
Cut the line inside the regiferator behind the bin and used the tube union to attach new 5/16" tubing to run to the solenoid valve assy in the back of the refigerator. Location of the valve assy makes connecting very difficult. But was able to complete repairs.
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