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PartSelect Number PS290199
Comes with both cam risers. This hinge kit is suitable for the bottom of either the freezer door or the refrigerator door of some refrigerators.
This part works with the following brands: GE, Hotpoint & Kenmore.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
First, I removed all items on the door shelves and the shelves themselves to reduce the weight of the door. Second, I removed the cover on the top hinge assembly and removed the two screws that secured that hinge. Third I lifted the door from the bottom hinge assembly and placed the door horizontal on the kitchen table to all easier access to the bottom of the door. I then removed two screws holding the door closing cam and shim and replaced them with the new parts. Next was to removed the old hinge assembly on the refrigerator itself and replace it with a new hinge assembly. All down hill from this point. Time to reinstall the door, aligning the bottom of the door cam over the hinge assembly and setting the door down on it making sure the door sets on the hinge assembly cams. To the top of the refrigerator. reinstalled the top door hinge assembly and cover, job complete. Total time from start to finish including cleaning the inside of the door and shelves about 30 minutes.As for the replacing of the light lens in the freezer section. This was almost to easy. I removed the ice drawer from the freezer which exposed the one phillips screw that holds the lens in place. Removed the screw and what was left of the old lens, inserted the new lens from the underneath the ice drawer compartment and screw, replaced the ice drawer and, the task was complete. Total time about 5 minutes.
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Our refrigerator is a double door unit with ice and water in the left door. The right door was the one with the problem. It was 5:15 AM when the problem occured. I could see that the door was out of alighnment and had dropped down - preventing it from closing. I lifted the door and closed it. I wrote down the model number and found a detailed drawing of the appliance on the web site "partselect.com". When the hing earrived I compared it to the broken one. I removed all the food stored on the door, put several pieces of wood under the door to shim it to the same height as the adjacent door. I then removed two bolts from the refrigerator with a 1/4" socket set. I put the shim from the old hing aside for later. I removed two bolts from the door with the same socket -Note a metal tab had to be bent silghtly so the wrench could go on the head of the bolt- I removed the plastic cam and made note of its orientation and that of the shim above it on the door. I put the shim and new cam in place on the door and installed the 2 bolts. I inserted the pin of the new hing into the hole in the cam (I had just mounted) on the door. I put the shim (the one put aside earlyer) behind the hing and replaced the two bolts. I held the shim and hing up against the door as I tightened the two bolts. When I was satisfied that the bolts were tight I removed the wooden blocks that were holding the door up so the door was supported by the new bottom hing assembly. The door now opperates perfectly and the refrigerator was not taken out of service for the repair. Total time including cleanup was a little over 15 minutes.
This is a sibe-by-side refrigerator/freezer that needed a new lower hinge set for the fridge door.First I removed everything from inside the fridge door, closed it, then loosened the top hinge bolts with an 8mm socket on a 1/4-inch ratchet. Using an 8mm nutdriver, I removed one bolt and loosed the other just far enough to be able to lift the hinge and swing it out of the way. (These bolts are long. The nutdriver is faster than the ratchet but you need a ratchet or a wrench to first break them loose.) Then I just lifted the door off the bottom hinge and set it aside. The plastic lower front grill was covering the lower hinge but that grill is just held at the ends by spring clamps -- popped off easily so I could get to the hinge bolts. Again, 8mm bolts, just remove & replace hinge. I also had to replace the upper half of the door closer cam, which is screwed to the bottom of the door, being careful that the holes lined up: cam, shim, door holes. Now the tricky part was lifitng the door back on the lower hinge. (It helps to have an assistant at the bottom to locate the hole for you.) Once the door was up, I swung the top hinge over, ran the two bolts in finger tight with my nutdriver, checked & adjusted the spacing* of the fridge door and tightened the bolts. This was all very easy! (*^_^*)*On a side-by-side, you'll want the door to be straight up & down with a consistent gap top to bottom with the freezer door. The hinge has some slack for adjustment by positioning the door, then tightening the bolts. You'll see what I mean.
Simple job, empty the door shelves, remove top hinge, lift door off bottom hinge, remove bottom hing. The reassembly is the reverse, with a little cleaning along the way and a little white lithium grease on the hinge pins and cams.
Changed the door stop and hinge assembly. Door works perfectly.
I used the same steps as described in other descriptions listed here. Since I was changing the hinge assembly on the freezer side the difference I discovered was that there was a nylon water hose inside the hinge assembly that I did not at first know how to remove. I finally called a repairman I happened to know and following his instruction simply snapped the hose loose where there was a connector and placed a cloth under it to catch the moisture that drained. Having done that, the rest of the assembly went just the same way as the other instructions listed here said that it would. Door now functions like new.
Shut off water and disconnected at factory joint at bottom hinge. Unplugged the electrical at the top hinge. Removed the door and installed new bottom hinge and cam assembly. Reinstalled the door and hooked water and electric back up. Part worked fine.
I supported door with 2* 6 scrap wood. I used cedar shingles to raise door to correct height.Using a socket wrench, I removed the hinge from the fridge and the cam assembly from the door.I installed the new hinge and cam using the shims thatwere behind the original parts.I removed the 2*6 supports and the door now works perfectly.
I had to replace the cam risers on the freezer door. The water line goes up through the hinge that has to be replaced. I turned off the water to the refrigerator, took off the bottom grill of the fridge, and unscrewed the water line (very easy). Then I unscrewed a piece that holds the water line to the fridge. All the pieces had to be off the waterline, so I had to get the joint off the waterline and the metal holder, and the spring piece off - it was pretty easy. Then I had to unbolt the top hinge bolts, pick up the freezer door and completely remove it - lifting it high enough that the water line came free from the lower hinge. I layed the door on the floor. I replaced the cams and replaced everything in order. One extra thing I learned is to make sure that when you tighten the upper hinge back on, be sure to align the door - the screws are set in such a way that you can tip the door to the left or to the right to make sure the two doors arent rubbing on each other. At first, the door didn't shut on its own - we had to push it, but within 24 hours of use, the door would shut on its own without the extra push.I also replaced the handles on the doors. I even looked on line to figure out how to do this - I don't know if my situation is different - but nothing online helped me. There are these (on my fridge) decorative white strips that are above and below the handle - beyond the pieces that actually hold the handle in. The decorative white strips have to be removed in order to remove/replace the handles. I thought the top cap would pop off or something - they dont. They're screwed on with a hidden screw. When you unscrew the piece that holds in the handle - if you can ease it out, great - but the white strips pop out, and have to be removed in order to get the new handles in. You have to gently put something inbetween the white strip and metal that holds it in and ease it out - straight out toward you. Once you pop out those strips - the rest is easy and self explanatory.
First I propped up the door. Then I removed the 2 screws that hold the hinge on. AT this point you do need someone else because the door swings loose. I attached the new bracket and lowered the door. It went verey smooth. I ordered the new bracket after reading the installation stories from others who just repaced the plastic pieces. Its worth the extra money to just put on a new bracket
I emptied everything from door compartments.I removed the top cover of the door pivot with a phillips screwdriver. I removed the two screws that that hold the pivot bracket with a 8 mm socket. Lift the door off the bottom pivot bracket. Remove the old bottom pivot bracket with an 8mm socket and replace it with the new cam bushings.You must replace both bushings on the bottom of the door and on the bracket that mounts to the base of the body of the refrigerator. Reinstall the door and screws .The doors should be level with each other if they are installed properly.If not check the freezer door .The bushings may be worn on that door also.
Was able to pull the door up to the normal position, then blocked in place with 2 2x4's. Easily removed the hinge assemble and the door closing cam, which had broken in two.bolted on the replacement parts in 10 mionutes and the door was a good as new: peice of cake!!!
I propped up the door with 2x4 and shims to be level with the freezer door. Then removed the 2 screws holding the hinge to the main unit. Then removed the 2 screws holding the cam washer to the door.Replacement was the reverse of disassembly. Be sure to tighten screws almost tight until both pieces are located correctly then fully tighten. Lift up refrigerator door slightly to remove shims and wood block.I did the replacement myself but was nervous that the door would fall off the block and shims. I recommend having another person hold the door closed during the process.
Removed door contents to lower weight (good time to clean/disinfect door compartments), blocked and shimmed door up to correct fininished height. Removed lower hinge components (make sure shims positions are noted). Replaced w/new components and removed blocking. Easy job, should have done sooner.
First, I removed all items on the door shelves and the shelves themselves to reduce the weight of the door. The door came off by itself because the bottom hinge had broken. Then I placed the door horizontal on the kitchen floor to have easier access to the bottom of the door. I had a piece of blanket under the door to prevent any scratch. I then removed two screws holding the door closing cam and shim and replaced them with the new parts. Next, I removed the base grill to have easy access to the old hinge assembly on the refrigerator itself. All I had to do was grab it firmly at either end and pull it forward. I replaced the hinge assembly with the new one. I removed the cover on the top hinge assembly and removed the two screws that secured that hinge (I was not able to put the door back without removing the top hinge assembly). All down hill from this point. Time to reinstall the door, aligning the bottom of the door cam over the hinge assembly and setting the door down on it making sure the door sets on the hinge assembly cams. To the top of the refrigerator. reinstalled the top door hinge assembly and cover (I had to make sure the door was standing straight vertically before I tightened the nuts), I also put a small amount of white grease into both the top and bottom hinges.
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