Bottom Hinge Assembly

I learned from previous published repair stories. I was able to make the repair without taking the door off. I first took the food and beverages off the door to reduce weight. Next, I supported the bottom of the door with a piece of 2x4 wood and shims to take the weight when I removed the hinge. I only needed a socket set to remove the old hinge and install the new one. I am glad that the hinge kit came with both the hinge and mating cam because both parts were broken. I also bought the shims because pieces from the old parts were broken on the floor. The job went easy and the door closes perfectly now.

Removed all items from the door shelfs.
With the door open, picked up the door and slid it upward as far as it would go. Asked wife to place a stack of books under the door to keep it at the proper height. Removed the lower hinge pin assy. remved the door stop. Installed new componets and reinstalled the door stop. The door was now level with the freezer door.

First issue, I tried to get the top hinge cover off by gently prying. No go. Went to get a step stool and discovered a small screw holding the plastic cover on. At least I didn't break it by prying. I then removed the two top hinge bolts and removed top hinge. I then lifted the door off the bottom hinge.

I then removed the bottom hinge (two bolts) and replaced it with the new hinge with the attached lift cam. (Bottom half of cam)

I then removed the broken lift cam from the bottom of the door, replacing it with the door closing cam included in the hinge assembly package.

Second issue: I did not need to order the DOOR closing cam as a separte item as it came with the hinge assembly package. (There was a warning note in the hinge assembly package to use the door cam included, as new materials had been used and abnormal wear could occure if you didn't replace both pieces of the lift cam)

I set the door back on the bottom hinge, replaced the top hinge and tested. The door would NOT close on it's own. Getting down on my belly I could see resistance of the door light switch was keeping the door from closing. The fix of this issue was to load the door with the normal use items. This provided enough weight to the door and offset the resistance of the switch. EVERY THING WORKED GREAT. Time was 26 minutes from start to finish.

I followed the many post on replacing this part and everything went well. I had a little trouble getting the hinge post into the new hinge assembly, but with a slight adjustment it fell into place. I checked to see what tools I would need to do the job and had them ready before I even started. I removed the door and had it back on in maybe 10 minutes and I am not exactly Mr. Fix It. The only advice I can add to what everyone else has said is you should look the job over a little before you take the door off and have your tools ready. Then you won't have the door off for too long. I'd like to thank this site and everyone who gave advice on how to fix this problem. It made the whole job very easy.

This is a side-by-side unit. After blocking up the closed refrigerator door to the correct height to match the freezer door, I removed the lower hinge pin assembly by taking out two bolts. Save the shims (my had two) for the new hinge pin. Then remove the cam riser from the bottom of the door by taking out two bolts. Install the new cam riser on the bottom on the door. Then install the new hinge pin assembly. Total time 15 minutes.

It was really easy for me....my son told me what part I needed. I ordered it, and he installed it!

Removed top hinge assembly to pull door away from bottom hinge (2x hex bolts) Discovered that the pin on the bottom assembly had broken off. Removed and replaced bottom hinge assembly (2x hex bolts). Aligned door with top and bottom hinge pins. Tightened all hex bolts. Done

blocked up refrigerator door.removed old hinge, and put new one on,with socket set.