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PartSelect Number PS271743
This transmission and brake assembly comes with a new tub seal. This kit aids in the spinning or agitating cycles.
This part works with the following brands: GE, Hotpoint & Kenmore.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
I followed the instructions in the GE Consumer Service Training Technician Manual Pub. No. 31-10008. I also power washed the basket and tub before reassembly. The tub seal comes with the transmission and brake assembly so it's not necessary to order another seal.The agitator coupling kit contains a redesigned coupler and longer screw with new o-ring. I bought the hub nut, split ring, tub bearing, agitator coupling kit and washer hub because these are all the parts that go on the transmission shaft. I felt it was best to spend a few dollars more to replace every part involved with the spin and agitation of the washer. I used the channel lock and a hammer with a shortened handle to remove and replace the hub nut. Use caution as the nut is aluminum. The entire job took 5 hours.
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The back of the control panel had an instruction pamplet that was very useful. 2 parts did not go as written tho. To "pop" the spinner out, required short 1x4s and a shake/shingle bar to pry it up and the wedging of the 1x4s under it, until enough strain was put on it to "pop" it off. Then the large 1&11/16 nut was a bear. It required a short pipe wrench (so it fit in the tub) and a hammer to brake it loose.
Had never repaired a washer before, but have several tools and enjoy working with my hands. Knew it would be cost prohibitive to call a repairman, and didn't have anything to lose. Quick delivery from partselect -- reasonable price, too. This was as easy as simply taking the whole washer apart (NOTE -- there are instructions behind the knobs inside the unit that are very helpful!) replacing the transmission and putting it all back together. Hardest part was getting the hub nut off of the transmission axle. To get it off (REVERSE THREADED, so 'tighten' to 'loosen') I used a 1 11/16 socket and impact wrench. Use the same tool to tighten (but go EASY...don't overtighten). This was not difficult, but just took some time. A couple of evenings later, we were washing again like NEW. Part cost around $160, labor was 'free' and much less than a new $500 top loader or $800 front loader. If you enjoy taking things apart and have some tools, then go for it!
Outrageous bad design for GE. We bought a SS tub washer but during repair found hidden aluminum components as 'wet' support structures, with massive corrosion; GE's SS tub is a fraud. Main seal went bad after 2 years, washer has a drip pan - no wonder, the problem was hiden for another year while parts burned up. Replacing transmission is basically simple if you have a large hammer and pipe wrench to remove the left hand turn aluminum main holding nut. Replacement parts were okay but we are going to sell washer & dryer immediately because of bad design - it will be a good machine for someone else for a couple years.
the hardest part was getting the hub nut off. You have no room for a big wrench, I ended up chiseling it off.once I got it a part I saw the transmission was leaking oil, I checked every thing else, every thing seemed fine. I read on this web site that a common failure was the hub, mine was not in the best of shape so I replaced it while I was in there.replaced tub bearing,washer hub, hub nut , retaining clip for clutch,ring split, transmission and tub bearing 1/2 and $250.00 later the machine works like new.The diagrams that give you the part numbers were very helpful in the reassembly.
followed the instruction on the wiring sheet and removal and repair sheet that comes with the wahing machine. They wee very good directions and the only problem that I had wa getting the 1 and 11/16 inch not off the shaft that holds the tub to the transmission, The main problem was that the transmission had leaked all over the break and the tub would spin while hitting the pipe wrench with a claw hammer. Ended up using a 10 lb sledge hammer to hit the pipe wrench and that finally loosened up the nut, but that was the only real problem i had. I say this was easy except for getting off that nut
First I removed the agitator. The shoulder screw on top of the air bell was almost disintegrated, but after soaking with penetrating oil and a large channel lock pliers I removed the shoulder screw. Next, the air bell required a bearing puller to remove it from the agitator shaft (with force application to the agitator shaft from above). After two days of soaking with penetrating oil, heating with a hot air gun, and countless attempts with a pipe wrench and sledge hammer the 1 11/16 nut was not moving. I drilled down along the flats of the shaft and dug out as much corrosion as I could and filled the cavities with penetrating oil. Next, I drilled down at an angle (so as not to gouge the centering taper of the spinner hub) into the nut in order to relieve some stress - no success. I ended up using a chissel ( blade and flat round ) to break pieces of the nut away which was quite brittle. After removing about 1/8 of the nut's top and tapered portion, it began to turn out with a pipe wrench. Next, the spinner would not lift out off the shaft, so I had to remove the entire tub and transmission assembly (but with the spinner basket attached) as instructed by the paper stored within the control panel. I removed the tub support bracket and motor assembly and the pulley off the transmission (pieces of the brake pad fell out). Using a 2X6 piece of lumber, I fabricated 2 semi circular pieces to fit within the 20 inch diameter of the spinner basket and secured their position with another piece of wood. I attached eye hooks to the wood and with rope,hung the entire assembly over an I beam with the transmission in the 5 gallon bucket and the tub suspended only about an inch above the bucket. I hammered on the agitator shaft until the tub and transmission fell the inch as it separated from the spinner basket. After this, it was just cleaning the areas receiving new parts. I did use a sealant around the new tub seal edges and bottom when assembling. Other than having to tap 1/4- 20 threads in the new transmission brake flange (new part had no threads in the holes) the reassembly went fine. I did have to retighten the new 1 11/16 nut after the first use because the new brake pad really stopped the basket from spinning, but the momentom loosened the nut after 3 loads of wash.
Finding the disassembly instructions in the control panel was very useful. After disassembly and inspection obviously the transmission had lost oil and deteriorate the belt and actually threw it off. Finding your web site was very helpful. The exploded views parts catalog were great! We had it rush shipped. It was great to speak with a representative on a sunday was excellent. The rep was knowledgeable and we concurred on which part were needed. Tracking number was correct via e-mail but only rec'd tracking number for one of the two packages which was stressful at the fedex office at pick-up. All items were rec'd on time assembly was straight forward. The basin retainer nut came loose after 5 loads and made a terrible noise. I applied blue loctite to nut and reinstalled. Seems to be working correctly. Bought an extended warranty which added 4 yrs. Washer failed 2 months after warr. Expired. Figures!! Great experience with partselect thank you.
I followed the instructions provided by GE that were stored in the control section of the washer. Removing the hub nut was a huge pain. It took Liquid wrench, hammer, pipe wrench and patience to remove it. Other than that it was fairly easy. I didn't like the way the tub seal fit so I used some silicon gasket making material to help make sure the seal sealed good against the tub.
Removed front cover(use screwdriver)clips on top of cover under lidDisconnected power from wallDisconnected wires to motor 1 screw/unplug for motorUncwrewed clamp on drain hoseRemoved top lifts off easliyWith help released Washing drum assy from hangersSlid back and Tilted drum assy outwards from drum opening out to the front of machinePulled agatator up and off of hubRemove one bolt from hub 1/4 " rachet w 3/8" socketPull off capRemoved Locking nut(couterclockwise)nut is soft metal used good vice grips firmly locked on nutRemoved inner washing drumTurned over Entire Assy (motor up)Removed belt (slid off)Removed 4 blots from Motor/Tranny assy to Plastic outer drumLifted off Motor/Tranny assy and pulled tranny outReaasemble in reverse order witht the exception of replacing the hub seal(inside)Outer drum assy.There were service instruction under the front control panel.
I had to remove top control panel and flip it over the back and out of the way, but did not have to unplug anything. I then had to remove front and top panels in order to remove the agitator and eventually the tub assembly itself. Once the tub assembly was removed, I had to turn it upside down to remove the transmissing and brake assembly as well as the mounting bracket. The entire removal process took about an hour and a half. The reassembly took less than an hour. The most difficult part was removing the 1 11/16 nut that ties the agitator to the tramsmission through the tub. It took 3 of us to hold the tub in place so that one of us could use the 3/4 drive ratchet and extension to loosen the nut. We did the same thing during the reassembly. All together there ware quite a few parts removed and a fair amounte of different screws. In order to perform this job, you must have a decent tool set and the ability to diagnose each step of the process, but it's not very difficult otherwise.
Should be noted that the basket must be rotated on installation to find the best balance point!
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