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271510-2-S-GE-WH2X1198          -Tub Bearing
271510-2-S-GE-WH2X1198          -Tub Bearing 271510-1-S-GE-WH2X1198          -Tub Bearing 271510-3-S-GE-WH2X1198          -Tub Bearing http://www.partselect.com/Schematics/GE/00121899i03.gif

Tub Bearing

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PartSelect Number PS271510
Manufacturer Part Number WH2X1198
Manufactured by GE

This part works with the following brands: General Electric, Hotpoint.

This part works with the following products: Washer.

This part fixes the following symptoms:

  • Noisy.
  • Leaking.

Videos For installing this part.

Related Parts Additional or alternate parts to consider.

Part PhotoPart DescriptionPriceAvailability

Tub Seal

Part Number 4704237

The main tub seal is located between the transmission and the outer tub. Its the primary water seal in the outer tub for the transmission-shaft. If your washer is leaking during the fill cycle, or at agitation time, your tub seal may need to be replaced. You can check if the tub seal needs to be replaced by watching that area during an actual fill cycle. Take off the front panel, or if it is a front-loading washer, the rear panel. Without touching the washing machine, observe the place where the shaft of the transmission comes into the tub and the weep holes at the housing of the rear bearing. If there is water leaking, the tub seal is at fault. NOTE: This seal is difficult to replace and should probably be installed by a qualified technician.

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Installation Instructions Provided by PartSelect customers like you.

Average Repair Rating: 2.0 / 5.0, 6 reviews What's this?
1-6 of 6
 

66 of 94 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
Level of Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
Time to do repair: More than 2 hours
Tools: Screw drivers, Socket set
Customer: Gregory from Mountain Home, ID

Main seal leaking & burned bearings on & in transmission

Outrageous bad design for GE. We bought a SS tub washer but during repair found hidden aluminum components as 'wet' support structures, with massive corrosion; GE's SS tub is a fraud. Main seal went bad after 2 years, washer has a drip pan - no wonder, the problem was hiden for another year while parts burned up. Replacing transmission is basically simple if you have a large hammer and pipe wrench to remove the left hand turn aluminum main holding nut. Replacement parts were okay but we are going to sell washer & dryer immediately because of bad design - it will be a good machine for someone else for a couple years.

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11 of 13 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
Level of Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
Time to do repair: More than 2 hours
Tools: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
Customer: Gary from QUEEN CREEK, AZ

Loud noise, burning smell during spin cycle

The video with Steve is invaluable. I followed the video to replace the tub bearing. Had to jump over to the tub seal video to make sure I got it seated into the outer tub correctly. The tub bearing video skips past the seal part. Be aware that the video cut aways can be a considerable amount of time. Highly recommend a few things: 1) if you think you need to replace one of the things on my parts list (bearing, washer, seal, etc) then just replace everything at once. It's not worth it to try to reuse old nasty parts. All of the parts + 1 11/16 spanner wrench came to around 60 bucks. 2) get the washer out of its confined area and give yourself some room to work on it. I took the time to shuffle it out into my garage and setup a table to spread out the parts and tools. This procedure is a complete washer dismantle job. So take your time and be patient. 3) the aluminum hub nut is a bugger. I had to use penetrating oil and make a couple of small angled cuts with a hacksaw to relieve the tension between the nut and transmission shaft. 4) the main lower tub bearing (bushing) was also a bugger and all gummed up and rusty. Be very careful getting it out. You don't want to ruin the integrity of the outer tub cavity that it goes into. Light taps and patience using the butt end of a hammer and flat blade screwdrivers. From beginning to end, with a few breaks to let the penetrating oil do its thing, it took about four hours. I took my time, reviewed the videos throughout that time, and I've never worked on a washing machine before.

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5 of 7 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
Level of Difficulty: Really Easy
Time to do repair: 30 - 60 mins
Tools:
Customer: Robert from HOLLAND, MI

Very noisy in spin

When disassembling I could not remove the 1 3/4" tub nut with in house tools and had to order the spanner wrench. Almost mandatory unless you have a socket wrench.

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4 of 7 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
Level of Difficulty: Very Difficult
Time to do repair: More than 2 hours
Tools:
Customer: Kenneth from MESA, AZ

Water leaks on floor in front of machine.

Worse machine ever made. Installed all parts per videos .they helped a lot. Inner tub went on crooked and first wash ruined inner/outer tubs top piece. Took to dump.

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2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
Level of Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
Time to do repair: More than 2 hours
Tools: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
Customer: Troy from N CHESTERFLD, VA

I had a bad tub bearing and tub seal.

I had no difficulty dismantling the washer until I got to the hub nut. It was frozen to the cone shaped fitting it was resting in. I had to take a drill and a 3/16" drill bit and drill the flange of the hub nut and then take a chisel and break it off piece by piece. Once that was off, I lifted the tub out and tried to pry off the split ring under the tub and it too was corroded and broke when I tried to pull it off. So I would advise you to buy a hub nut and a split ring if you are replacing the tub bearing, just to be safe. I went to an appliance parts store here in town and bought them. When reassembling the tub, I couldn't get a wrench or pliers on the hub nut to get enough torque to tighten it securely. And since I didn't want to spend $43 to buy a spanner wrench for a one time repair, I went to Harbor Freight and bought a $15 dollar adjustable wrench and cut 3 1/2" off the handle so it would lay flat to the tub and used a hammer to tap on the handle to tighten it securely. If you do not find some way to tighten the tub securely, it will come loose in the spin cycle like it did on me twice before I purchased the adjustable wrench and modified it to work. Plus I still have a useable adjustable wrench. Additionally, I took the washer cabinet, the tub and the tub sleeve and power washed it to get years of grime off of it. The washer now operates like new, saving me hundreds of dollars.

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1 of 1 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
Level of Difficulty: Difficult
Time to do repair: More than 2 hours
Tools: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
Customer: William from COMMERCE TWP, MI

Water leak, loud bearing noise

The Hub nut was very corroded and seized, and would not break loose using several types of wrenches & lubricants. The shaft is square with threads only on the corners, I used an electric drill to crack the hub nut on the straight sides of the shaft where there are no threads. All parts are GE and exact replacements, The noise is much less, but still a very small water leak. Should work for awhile , but a new washer is in the near future. Parts are good with quality service and shipment.

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1-6 of 6

Model Cross Reference

This part works with the following models:

PartSelect Number: PS271510
Manufacturer Part Number: WH2X1198
Brand Model Number Description
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